Pool Heater problem

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  #1  
Old 06-26-07, 05:24 PM
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Pool Heater problem

I have a 12'x28' aboveground pool with a Hayward propane heater.
When I fired the heater up this weekend it started fine & heated the pool up to temp just great.The problem seems to be when it reaches temp & shuts off.It will not fire back up,the fan turns but no fire.I realized this yesterday so I shut the power off to it & let it set for a couple seconds & plugged it back in & it fired off fine.Today when I came home from work same thing.
 
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  #2  
Old 06-26-07, 07:07 PM
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First let me tell you that the safety loop in that heater is NOT 12v like most heaters it is 110V and will shock you. Make sure electric is off when working on it. Now, there is an ignitor in the heater, you'll find it towards the bottom with 2 white wires coming from it and one screw holding it in. You'll want to remove the ignitor carefully and it will be forked on the end, close the forks a VERY little towards eachother just a hair. Put back together and it should be ok. There are a few things it could be but this is by far the most common.
Good luck...
 
  #3  
Old 06-27-07, 05:18 PM
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Of course it works ok now that I posted a help question! I will for sure give that a try if it acts up again.Thanks!
 

Last edited by DIYaddict; 07-24-07 at 03:39 PM. Reason: Unnecessary quote removed
  #4  
Old 07-24-07, 02:38 PM
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I cannot see anything with 2 white wires going to it,there is something with what looks like a spark plug wire hooked to it,is that it?
P.S. the posting rules say I cannot post a pic or I would.
 

Last edited by DIYaddict; 07-24-07 at 03:40 PM. Reason: Unnecessary quote removed
  #5  
Old 07-24-07, 03:04 PM
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Here's a pic link. Is it the thing in the yellow box?
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2659551100101823629cucMWl
 
  #6  
Old 07-24-07, 03:49 PM
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That is it, be careful with it as it is fragile.
 
  #7  
Old 07-24-07, 09:40 PM
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If you feel comfortable with working with power on..... u can take top and front panel....temporarily jump out door switch.... now with a voltmeter u may check across your switches.....pressure.....stat.....hi limits..........0volts means switch is closed and 110v across your switches shows they are open............i.ve been doing hvac work for 20 years now so any questions i'll try and help
 
  #8  
Old 07-24-07, 09:46 PM
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try taking it out and cleaning it with scotchbrite kinda like a kitchen scotchpad........sometimes they rust and cannot conduct enough spark to bridge across
 
  #9  
Old 07-27-07, 07:08 PM
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How big of a gap should there be? I took it out & cleaned it up & squeezed the end together,but I'm wondering what kind of gap there should be.It's about 3/8" right now.
 
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Old 07-28-07, 04:14 PM
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Honestly I've never measured, I mostly work on bigger heaters and have only worked on the H100 maybe 7-8 times. I do know that this has been an issue with them. I closed gap maybe 1/16" of it worked like a charm.
 
  #11  
Old 08-04-07, 06:59 AM
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I seem to be going backwards here.I took it out & dressed it it with a file(cleaned & smoothed it) & it would not ignite at all.Figuring I had ruined it I bought a new ignitor & wire & put it in.Same thing.It still will not fire.What happened? P.S. The propane tank level is @ 65% so I'm not out of gas unless the gauge went bad & I did tap it to make sure it's not stuck.
 
  #12  
Old 08-05-07, 01:42 PM
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Definately don't want to clean or file ignitor. Tell me what is happening now, is blower coming on? Does it try to ignite? Do you smell gas at fan exhaust?
 
  #13  
Old 08-05-07, 07:41 PM
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The blower is coming on. I do not smell propane.
 
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Old 08-06-07, 05:55 PM
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Ignore that last post.I DO smell gas when it's first trying to ignite,then it goes away when it fails to light.Yes, blower does come & stay on.
 
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