Hayward H100ID

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  #1  
Old 07-11-07, 04:48 PM
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Hayward H100ID

I have a Hayward H100ID heater that I bought used and it doen't work. Any ideas? Do they usually have issues with the gas valves? There is never any propane smell from the machine..

Thanks.
 

Last edited by seabass1; 07-11-07 at 04:50 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old 07-11-07, 07:53 PM
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need more info, what exactly does it do when turned on? I'm assuming it has power coming in, is properly plumbed, and the front cover must be closed (there is a safety switch).
 
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Old 07-12-07, 03:58 PM
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More info

Plumbing is all done correctly, there is electricity going in and the front cover is installed but when the unit is turned on nothing happens.

Thanks
 
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Old 07-12-07, 04:24 PM
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When you say nothing, I'm assuming the fan does not come on. If fan does not even come on, it could be a number of things, it might be difficult to troubleshoot here but if you're up to it, I am too. first thing is check safety switch on door. Do you have test meter? Make sure switch is opening or remove wires and bypass switch (only bypass temperaly for testing it).

*** BE SURE TO DISCONNECT ELECTRIC AND KEEP IN MIND THE SAFETY LOOP OF THIS HEATER IS 110V
 
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Old 07-14-07, 08:13 AM
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I bypassed the door interlock and there is still nothing happening. All connections seem tight. What is the next couple steps to troubleshoot this problem? Are there any fuses that can be blown?
 
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Old 07-14-07, 09:38 PM
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You will need a volt meter or some type current tester. You'll want to run down the circuit, test where comes into control box, then were comes out. My guess is that is the problem since it is doing nothing at all, not even fan comng on.
 
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Old 07-15-07, 04:18 AM
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Try not to overlook the obvious (which isn't always obvious), check the breaker to the pool heater.

The very first thing that should happen when that heater calls for heat is the combustion blower starts up. If this doesn't happen, there are three things that could be the problem. First the interlock switch (door switch), two is the water pressure switch (the most likely cause) and three is the thermostat.

Since you already checked the interlock switch, the next item I'd check is the water pressure switch. You can either check this by continuity with the heater unplugged or check the voltage coming off the switch. If the switch isn't closing, then it could be a defective switch or low pump pressure.

www.haywardnet.com/products/Manuals/pdfs/Manual102.pdf is the link to the manual for the heater.
 
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Old 07-16-07, 07:31 PM
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OK fellas. electrically the thing is working, it was the water pressure. I had the outlet side valve wide open, as soon as I cut it back to increase the pressure in the heater the blower came on. Now after the ten second cycle I hear the clicking of the ignition but I don't think it is lighting because the exhaust air coming out of the side of the unit is cold and nothing seems to warm up inside the unit. Any ideas?

Thanks for all the help so far, seems like only one issue left.
 
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Old 07-17-07, 07:54 AM
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Please be careful with increasing pressure, I've seen where people increase pressure BUT reduce flow and the heater will get very hot and blow high limit.

Not getting ignition could be a gas issue or ignitor problem. Are you on propane or natural? Explain how the gas line is run, size, length, regulators.

Do you have a gas smell from fan exhaust when trying to light?
 
  #10  
Old 07-17-07, 05:17 PM
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Propane tank has a low pressure regulator connected to it which has a factory built flex line on it. It is then connected to 1/2 pipe which runs into the unit's gas valve. Never any gas smell from the unit.

Thanks
 
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Old 07-20-07, 09:53 PM
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was gas line bled when hooked up? How far is the tank from heater? Is gas and the gas valve on?
 
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Old 07-02-08, 11:19 PM
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hayward h100id

Having trouble with new unit I purchased on e-bay. I have a 24 foot above ground in my back yard. I hooked up heater, plumbing is fine, and had a copper 1/2 inch gas line coming fm meter. It is 110 feet fm meter to heater. My gas dude is a champ. I had not enough supply to heater at this distance. I dug up my yard, and replaced gas line with 3/4 id.
Now my inlet pressure is 2.5 WC. When I try to start heater, all is fine?? Water pressure switch is working well.. Thermosdadt is up, gas is on, blower comes on, igniter is working but will not fire up! I smell plenty of gas but will not fire up.. Igniter is sparking.. Took all apart... orfices are clean.. blower is fine.. when i shut off pump, heater shuts down like it's supposed to with water press switch.. Spark seems weak though.. but it still should fire..
Recommended gas pipe id for this distance is 1 inch.. I hate to replace this, it took me 3 days to dig it out and replace.. Thought 3/4 would be sufficient??
I contacted hayward tech and they said they would send me a kit to help. Larger orfices, and I don't know what else it involves..
If u can help me, I would appreciate it tremendously... U guys have a good forum here, and I'm sure I will be involved with this site always.. For I am Tim the toolman taylor, (boom) LOL... Pls help... tks..
 
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Old 07-03-08, 08:19 PM
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I think if you read the specifications on the heater panel you'll see that you need a minimum inlet pressure of 3" WC for either natural gas or propane.
 
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Old 07-04-08, 02:22 AM
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Thanks!

Originally Posted by mtb54703 View Post
I think if you read the specifications on the heater panel you'll see that you need a minimum inlet pressure of 3" WC for either natural gas or propane.
I can exceed 3' wc but it still don't work, gas valve is preset to 2" but i can increase it, to no avail... help me buddy.... jimmy...
 
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Old 07-04-08, 09:26 AM
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I have 8" WC inlet and my valve was preset to 2" WC outlet, but the heater would not stay on. It wasn't getting a flame sense. Tried a new control module but the results were the same. The tech said to increase my outlet pressure to 2.5" WC. That did the trick.


Do you get any ignition at all?


For my regulator, 1 turn clockwise = .5" WC - your results might vary, so if your feeling dangerous an want to try it yourself try a 1/2 first.

If you don't have at least 3" WC coming in, I wouldn't expect things to work.

See the other thread on this sub-forum on this heater as well:

http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=345253
 
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Old 07-03-09, 05:53 PM
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pfireman1

I have a hayward heater that I converted to Propane. I'm having trouble getting it to light and stay on. It has actually lighted twice but it sounds like a jet engine and there may be too much flame because it shuts down after a minute. I purchased a regulator for my gas tank from a barbecue place. is this the right one?. Is there a ajustement on the gas valve? Amy I getting to much fuel to the burn chamber? I've been working on this thing for some time now but I feel like I may be close, any ideas?
 
  #17  
Old 07-03-09, 05:59 PM
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gas pressure is to high, you need a manometer to set gas pressure properly. Your propane company should do this for you.
 
 

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