Pool timer malfunction

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  #1  
Old 09-16-07, 07:29 AM
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Pool timer malfunction

I have a timer connected to the electrical wiring that operates the pump 8 hours a day.

The timer itself seems to work, I mean I see the metal gear assembly inside turning slowly.

I have it on at 10am and off at 6pm everyday. The problem is it WILL turn off but will not turn back on.

There are two metal clips (ON and OFF) screwed onto the big metal dial wheel, they are in the positions they have always been, yet for some reason it's not turning the pump back on.

That's why when I was gone for two weeks and came back my pool is now emerald green...yuck...

Any advise on what I should look for? I am not sure the mechanics of the timer, I assume the metal clips catches the manual latch to turn things on and off?

If it is turning off automatically and on time, that means the timer is running and the wheel is functioning, right?

I wanted to manually rotate the dial and see how the OFF is being activated and see what is happening to the ON, but I think if I loosen these parts I might not be able to put it together again.

If I need it serviced do I call an electrician or a pool company?

Thanks in advance,

MC
 
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Old 09-16-07, 08:57 AM
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this type of timer is generally quite simple. Those small screwed on metal clips (trippers) are used to set the time for it to turn on or off. If you look closely (generally at about the 4 or 5 o'clock position on a clock face) there are a couple of tabs that those screw ma jobbies will hit as they are rotated passed. If both screw ma jobbies are still in the same place as always, it sounds like either the back end of the on screw or the tab it strikes is bent or broken.

How you typically change the time of the clock is to pull the face forward and rotate. You should be able to do this and have the screw bobs run passed the tabs. It should move the part on the back plate each time one of the screw bobs go passed it. If not, then something is missing or broken.

timers such as that are relatively inexpensive and not difficult to install. Just be sure to turn off all electricity going to the timer before starting. Mark all the wires and install just as it is. You should have a make and model number on the timer. Intermatic is a very common brand and a simple on off with no extra bell or whistles would be a model T-101. her is a link that shows that timer. If you search around that website, you may be able to find something that looks like it missing in yours and help you out.

http://www.electricsuppliesonline.com/intitin.html

there are indoor and outdoor rated enclosures so be sure to get the one that is correct for your application.

they are also rated by amperage and voltage. Again, be sure that the replacement matches what you need.
 
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Old 09-16-07, 09:51 AM
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It sounds to me like the ON setting adjuster is simply broke off.
 
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Old 09-16-07, 10:32 AM
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yes, it does and on the site I linked, it even offers just the trippers seperately.

After my lengthy dissertation, I had realized that but failed to return to toss that in.
 
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Old 09-16-07, 12:28 PM
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The one I have looks like the ones in the link you provided. However the "trippers" as you called it look different. There seems to be a screw that I must loosen, then I can move the tripper around on the dial and then tighten the screw again to set it. The dial itself does not move (or only moved by the gear assembly) or so it seems.

MC
 
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Old 09-16-07, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MiamiCuse View Post
The one I have looks like the ones in the link you provided. However the "trippers" as you called it look different. There seems to be a screw that I must loosen, then I can move the tripper around on the dial and then tighten the screw again to set it. The dial itself does not move (or only moved by the gear assembly) or so it seems.

MC
They are different. On for ON and one for OFF. The yellow dial rotates with the time and the trippers physically hit a lever the turns the device either on or off. You should be able to pull out on the yellow disc and rotate it to set the time on the disc to the indicator.

Loosen the screw and slide the on tripper around to the point where it would make contact with the control lever. Does it even hit the lever? Try the off tripper. See how they work? You should easily be able to figure out if one of them is broken, or if the lever itself is broken.
 
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Old 09-16-07, 01:38 PM
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The pool timers I have had down there . You can turn that yellow dial by hand CW to see if the trippers hit the off and on switch and to set the time on it. You need that 8 hr run in just the summer . As it get cooler you can cut it down to 5 or 6 hr a day .
 
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Old 09-16-07, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by MiamiCuse View Post
The one I have looks like the ones in the link you provided. However the "trippers" as you called it look different. There seems to be a screw that I must loosen, then I can move the tripper around on the dial and then tighten the screw again to set it. The dial itself does not move (or only moved by the gear assembly) or so it seems.

MC
those little guys have a screw on them. You would only see about half of what you can see in the picture when installed.

Usually, you must pull outward on the dial. That is how you set the time on the things. There is usually a pointer at the bottom that does not move so you pull out the dial and rotate it to align the pointer with the current time.

forgot to ask; is your an intermatic? that is about the most common timer I see. Tork would be the 2nd most.

Model number as well if you can find it just so we can be as exacting as possible.
 
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Old 09-17-07, 07:32 PM
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I think I figured out what may be happening.

It is an Intermatic model T101-R. Here are some pictures:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/P1010358.jpg
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/P1010362.jpg

I pulled the yellow dial out and was able to rotate it and see how the little screws catches the ON/OFF switch. The screws appear to be ok, the dial as well.

However, the ON screw catches the switch at a small radius than the OFF screw, and I think when the dial rotates to the OFF position the switch is turned off, but when it comes to the ON position, somehow the screw is not pushing hard enough to turn it back ON, and get stucked there.

I tried to spray some WD-40 to grease the gear a bit, no difference. Should I replace the whole thing?

Thanks.
 
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Old 09-17-07, 08:01 PM
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If it gets stuck there, then I would think the motor is not strong enough to spin the dial due to age or simply malfunction.

I woudl simply replace the thing. The inner mechanism can be purchased seperately. I would compare to the price of a new one though. Often, you don;t really save that much anyway, if it is even available without ordering it.

Just be sure to turn off the power to the thing when you change it out.
 
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Old 09-17-07, 09:55 PM
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I have one more question, the one I have now:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/P1010358.jpg

has the electric connection to the lower right.

I have searched on the web and found many sources but none of them has a hole to the right as far as I can tell. Is that hole something I need to drill myself?

For example here:

http://www.onestopshopcatalog.com/t101r.html

Thanks!
 
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Old 09-18-07, 11:18 AM
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Home depot and Lowes have the timers down there. Id get a new one.
 
  #13  
Old 09-18-07, 01:24 PM
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Would this one be a compatible replacement?

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100089939

Model T103D89 and the one I have is T101R they look similar.

The one I have is:

Intermatic T101R Indoor/outdoor Rain Tight Timer - 110-Volt. FEATURESINDOOR/OUTDOOR RAINTIGHT TIMER Dawn steel case-gray 7-3/4 high x 5 wide x 3 deep Single pole single throw 1 to 12 on/off operations each day with minimum on/off times of 1 hour One on and one off tripper 110 volt, 40 amp Rated 2 H.P. UL listed, CSA approved Boxed

The 103D89 is 40amp 125V, so same amperage but different voltage is that OK?
 
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Old 09-18-07, 04:32 PM
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that T103 model will work. It is DPST where yours is a SPST.

Basically that means the 101 has one switch and the 103 has two switches so it could control 2 devices instead of just one.

As to the hole. I couldn't tell if there is a knockout (a preformed hole with the "hole" left in and attached in only a small section to facilitate removing it and not needing a drill) or if you would need to drill a hole in the case. If you need a hole, it would appear you have 1/2 inch liquidtight non-metallic conduit the wires are in. That would need a 7/8 inch diameter hole.
 
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