chlorine generator

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  #1  
Old 02-28-08, 08:09 PM
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chlorine generator

I have an aquarite chlorine generator that was professionally installed 2 years ago and has worked great! Recently, the red "no flow" LED has been lit constantly (not blinking). I checked the connections and they appear intact. I removed the cell to get a look at the flow sensor and it appears to move freely and isn't blocked by anything. I called the manufacturer and they said I'll need to call a service tech and that it's either a bad sensor or bad computer board. I took out the sensor to get a look at it and I'm not really sure how it works because it appears that the metal paddle has no other metal connection to touch for the sensor to recognize there is flow. It appears that the flow pushes the paddle up against a gray plastic backing.

Also, something I forgot to mention to the manufacturer. I haven't been adding salt over the winter so I know it's VERY low due to dilution from rain. Does the water need salt in order for the flow to register? I thought it might have to so with the NaCl conducting a current through the flow switch.

Has anyone else had any problems with the flow light or flow switch?
 

Last edited by sespico; 02-29-08 at 05:30 AM.
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Old 02-29-08, 09:58 AM
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Salt and flow are 2 different things, flow is flow. Have you cleaned the cell? Usually a flow problem will be from the cell be caked up and needs a acid bath. The flow censor is a small piece of metal that will close contact with another piece of metal.
 
  #3  
Old 03-01-08, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by sespico View Post
Also, something I forgot to mention to the manufacturer. I haven't been adding salt over the winter so I know it's VERY low due to dilution from rain. Does the water need salt in order for the flow to register?

Has anyone else had any problems with the flow light or flow switch?
Monitor your salt level. Excessive low or high salt will kill the cell.

As said, backwash your filter (or change cartridge) and be sure your cell is clean. Then have a good look at the wiring from the flow switch to the control. Be sure that RJ-11 is plugged in good. A wet location really does a number on that little plug.

The flow switch is a simple SPST switch. It can be checked with an ohmmeter.
 
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Old 03-01-08, 01:33 PM
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ok.... Thanks for the input. I cleaned the cell thoroughly using the muriatic acid procedure in the manual. It had a few minor deposits but nothing major (our well water is pretty soft). Based on the strength of the flow coming out of the pool jets, there is plenty of flow through the system. I removed the switch from the PVC T fitting to make sure its intact. It appears to be some type of magnetic switch because one of the contacts is a plastic post. I tried testing it with an ohm meter by touching my meter contacts to the RJ-11 contacts that plug into the box and making a connection with the switch but got no response. Does this mean my switch is bad? With the switch removed from the PVC T fitting, shouldn't I be able to manually press the switch together to fool the system into thinking there is adequate flow (if the switch is working, of course)?
 
  #5  
Old 03-03-08, 03:17 PM
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your on the right path, just go to where the end of the cable connects , jump the 2 post its not high voltage , if the flow light goes off you nkow its the switch or cable from the switch, if the light does not go off the board is at fault, & on that unit I personally would not spend alot of $ as there are a lot better units out there, in my opinion.

consider the digital Auto-pilot



steve
 
  #6  
Old 04-01-08, 06:58 AM
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Thanks for the responses. I called the company to tell them the switch was bad and under warranty but they wouldn't send me a new one without an authorized rep looking at it. I didn't want to pay for a service call just to have the guy screw a new switch into the PVC fitting. Fortunately, the service guy said I could come by and drop off the old switch and he would give me a new one free of charge if I could give him the serial number of my system. The new switch works great and I'm back to generating chlorine. I learned alot about the switches though and how to test them. Thanks for everyone's help.
 
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