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Hayward H100ID, ignites, but cools quickly

Hayward H100ID, ignites, but cools quickly

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  #41  
Old 06-11-08, 06:15 AM
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Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Originally Posted by sackyy View Post
If its under warrenty , who cares whats bad, but when its not I refuse to pay $200 on a service call for a $500 heater.Best of luck! The thing that reallly sucks is that when these heaters work good there hard to beat. Having this heater has been a challenge but I must say it has taught me alot about electronics and testing of electrical componants.
I agree - when the heater works it does a nice job on my 24" round above ground pool. As I mentioned, the new heater is a replacement for the same model that served well for 5 summers. If I could have maintained my ph a bit more (our water out of the ground is very acidic) it might have lasted longer. Needless to say, the water is now got a much better ph then in past years.

I'm going to the pool dealer and lay claim to my old circuit board. I'm curious if he'll say anything - I'm most certainly going to tell him that he shouldn't/can't charge for travel on warranty work for Hayward products. I'm actually thinking about filing a complaint with the better business bureau on how he mis-represented that. I'll give him one more chance to come clean.
 
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  #42  
Old 06-13-08, 05:31 PM
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Still stumped

Received my new control module from Hayward today. Received the control module on its attached sheet metal, igniter wire and igniter.

Started with putting the control module in place and using the new igniter wire to connect to the existing igniter.

Three attempts - no go. The burners will lite, but basically 10 seconds after the gas valve opens and it starts sparking it closes the gas valve.

So, I installed the new ignitor - three more attempts, same thing, burners won't stay on.

Too late to call Hayward today, and on Monday's the hold time is long.

Its gotta be flame sense related - but I'm out of ideas.

My gas pressure on both sides looks perfect (8" WC inlet, 2" WC outlet). I don't think the gas valve can be bad.

Damn good thing the weather has been crappy here in WI or I'd be really pissed.
 
  #43  
Old 06-13-08, 05:37 PM
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Have you cleaned the heater??? There is an obstruction in the exhaust path, getting to hot and shutting down. Could be mouse nest, bird nest, sooted heat exchanger...
 
  #44  
Old 06-13-08, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by todrut View Post
Have you cleaned the heater??? There is an obstruction in the exhaust path, getting to hot and shutting down. Could be mouse nest, bird nest, sooted heat exchanger...
The heater is brand new. I have pulled the burners completely out and made sure they are clean - even shiny. I look into the firebox and it was still new looking.

According to the schematic - the only thermal shutdown on the heater are the temperature limit switches on the water line. There is a temperature switch that drives the fan/blower either high or low, but there is no feedback to the control module from that sensor.
 
  #45  
Old 06-13-08, 08:01 PM
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If the temp switch does not sense heat to turn blower to high the heater shuts down. When you say new, how new? Ever used? It takes near nothing to soot the exchanger or to block the air flow through it. If it switches to high, does it switch and then shut down? It may sound crazy but I would remove the top and the fan so you can look down into heat exchanger. Take q-tip and run between fins look for dirt...
 
  #46  
Old 06-14-08, 04:32 AM
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Heater is brand new - purchased last fall but didn't install it until 3 weeks ago and has been experiencing the current problem since it was installed.

As for the temperature switch, if you look at page three of the manual:

http://www.haywardnet.com/products/M.../Manual229.pdf

The right side of right side of the diagram at the top of the page, you can see that the following:
  • power comes into the unit and goes to the door switch,
  • then to the thermostat
  • then to the water pressure switch
  • from there it splits
  • the first wire goes to the temperature switch
  • two wires come out of there and go to the blower (low/high)
  • end of line
  • the second wire goes through two temperature limit switches on the water manifold
  • then to air pressure switch (blower pressure causes it to close)
  • from there it goes to the control module
  • and the control module outputs to the gas valve and ignitor
  • end of line.

So, I don't really see how the temperature switch that controls the blower can have any control other than to either run the blower on high or low.

None the less, I'm going to pull the blower and look inside the heat exchanger.

Also, the heater has two burners, and I've pulled both and inspected, both are clean. The ignitor resides over only one of the burners - which can't be seen through the sight window. Maybe there is a blockage in the gas pipe that is only allowing good gas flow to the burner I can see - I did inspect the nozzles and they were clean.

Options are running out.
 
  #47  
Old 06-17-08, 09:15 AM
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Unhappy Exact problem as all of you...

I had one of these before and it was a great little unit! It ran well and reliably for quite a few years until a storm in 2007 when almost all of my equipment was damaged by lightning and winds. The new one was delivered and hooked up to gas (the gas line was double-checked and passed) in May, but because 2008 is a banner year for tree seeds, pollen, etc. here in West Michigan I didn't open the pool until last weekend (Father's Day weekend). My new unit is performing exactly as all of you have described. It fires, heats water for 10 seconds, then shuts back down. I have checked everything, and all appears fine. It is obviously brand new, but something has been changed from my original unit (which functioned perfectly out-of-the-box). I hope Hayward has a clue, because no one else (including installers and other professionals) does. Obviously we are ALL experiencing the same problems. The older ones were reliable (I have had at least 5-6 pool heaters over the years), but this year's model seems to have a serious problem.
 

Last edited by wildturkeysm; 06-17-08 at 09:18 AM. Reason: grammar
  #48  
Old 06-17-08, 10:15 PM
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Same Heater Different Problem

Hi Everyone,
Just reading through all these threads I'm impressed with everyone's knowledge here. I also have this heater, for a 21' above ground pool. The first time I turned it on this year it worked great. Then the next time I tried nothing happened...i turn the switch and absolutely nothing. I tried it a couple more times over the next 2 weeks but still nothing. Then we had a large storm and I was running the filter, and thought I'd try the unit again and it turned on and worked perfectly. For the next week I was able to run it whenever I wanted with no problems. However, about a week ago I tried it and it didn't work again, so I opened up the cover to see if there was anything noticeably wrong, and I checked to make sure all the wires were attached firmly. Then I tried it again and the heater worked fine. Over the next week it would work about 30% of the times I tried it. However, now it's again not turning on at all. Once it turns on it tends to work perfectly, but the problem is getting it to initially turn on. It either works, or doesn't do anything at all. The only difference was today when I tried it, it started for about 5 seconds and then it just stopped. Any help would be great. Could it be a short? Are there any steps I should take that may be able to fix it? I called the local pool repair guy but he charges a minimum of 200 dollars and his last repair cost us $325. I'd love it if I could fix it myself. if you all would be willing to help me, I'd really appreciate it.
 
  #49  
Old 06-18-08, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by wildturkeysm View Post
I had one of these before and it was a great little unit! It ran well and reliably for quite a few years until a storm in 2007 when almost all of my equipment was damaged by lightning and winds. The new one was delivered and hooked up to gas (the gas line was double-checked and passed) in May, but because 2008 is a banner year for tree seeds, pollen, etc. here in West Michigan I didn't open the pool until last weekend (Father's Day weekend). My new unit is performing exactly as all of you have described. It fires, heats water for 10 seconds, then shuts back down. I have checked everything, and all appears fine. It is obviously brand new, but something has been changed from my original unit (which functioned perfectly out-of-the-box). I hope Hayward has a clue, because no one else (including installers and other professionals) does. Obviously we are ALL experiencing the same problems. The older ones were reliable (I have had at least 5-6 pool heaters over the years), but this year's model seems to have a serious problem.
Exact same problem here. The heater is brand new and was just hooked up by the gas company. If I turn the heater on and off enough times, I can get it to stay lit maybe 1 out of 10 times. The rest of the time, it loses all heat after about 10 seconds.

I called Hayward, and they sent a local Heating tech to take a look at it this morning. He took one look at it and said that he needs to order a board and it will take about a week to come in. I sure hope this "board" fixes the problem, but from other peoples' experiences it sure sounds like it might not.

If it takes a week for each part that needs to be ordered, the short Vermont swimming season will be over by the third or fourth part.
 
  #50  
Old 06-18-08, 08:49 PM
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Same problem here

Bought the heater last week. Installed it tonight. It looks like a lot of us are having the exact same problem. If someone figures out a solution, post it asap.. i'm having a party this weekend that won't be much of a party if everyone is shivering and blue.
 
  #51  
Old 06-18-08, 09:31 PM
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HELP Me Please

Originally Posted by Frediraz View Post
Hi Everyone,
Just reading through all these threads I'm impressed with everyone's knowledge here. I also have this heater, for a 21' above ground pool. The first time I turned it on this year it worked great. Then the next time I tried nothing happened...i turn the switch and absolutely nothing. I tried it a couple more times over the next 2 weeks but still nothing. Then we had a large storm and I was running the filter, and thought I'd try the unit again and it turned on and worked perfectly. For the next week I was able to run it whenever I wanted with no problems. However, about a week ago I tried it and it didn't work again, so I opened up the cover to see if there was anything noticeably wrong, and I checked to make sure all the wires were attached firmly. Then I tried it again and the heater worked fine. Over the next week it would work about 30% of the times I tried it. However, now it's again not turning on at all. Once it turns on it tends to work perfectly, but the problem is getting it to initially turn on. It either works, or doesn't do anything at all. The only difference was today when I tried it, it started for about 5 seconds and then it just stopped. Any help would be great. Could it be a short? Are there any steps I should take that may be able to fix it? I called the local pool repair guy but he charges a minimum of 200 dollars and his last repair cost us $325. I'd love it if I could fix it myself. if you all would be willing to help me, I'd really appreciate it.
I'm still stuck, and I have a party this weekend with friends and family. I'm hoping it's just a small thing that maybe i'm doing improperly. If someone would be willing to just read through my problem (the above quote) and give me feedback, I'd really really appreciate it. Thanks all.
 
  #52  
Old 06-19-08, 05:47 AM
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Grounding?

A couple people have mentioned that the flame sensor is very sensitive to grounding. My heater is plugged into a grounded GFCI outlet, but I don't have a separate ground running to the grounding lug on the side of the heater. Should I put a grounding rod next to the heater and connect it to the lug? Is it possible that might fix the problem? Do other folks have the chassis grounded?
 
  #53  
Old 06-19-08, 06:10 PM
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Looks like a few more people are having the same problem - I wonder whats up with this.

I have been on vacation since Sunday so I haven't had any chance to play with the heater any more.

Just to recap what happening with my new heater:
  • The new heater will turn on the blower/fan for 10-12 seconds, then open the gas valve and starts sparking the igniter. There burners will lite within a couple seconds. 10 to 12 seconds after the gas valve open, it closes. According the manual, this is an indication that the control module did not sense a flame. The heater uses the igniter as a flame sensor.
  • Manual and schematics (page 3) for the heater are here:
    http://www.haywardnet.com/products/M.../Manual229.pdf

  • I've received a new control module, igniter wire and ignitor from Hayward - none those items changed the problem.
  • I've jumpered all switches - no effect. Water pressure is good - the heater wouldn't attempt to start if it didn't have water pressure.
  • I've check inlet and outlet gas pressure. Inlet is 8" WC (spec says between 3 and 10.5) and the outlet is 2" WC as it should be.
  • I've disassembled the entire heater and looked for blockages - none. Everything looks brand new.
  • Heater is properly grounded. I've even tried powering the heater from a different circuit than the pump.
  • The sticker on the heater say natural - thats what I have.
  • I've let it cycle many many many times - it still never leaves the gas valve open for longer than 10-12 seconds.

I'm calling Hayward first thing in the AM to see what they want to do now. Interesting that some of you have said Hayward has sent someone out to have a look at it.

As for the ground - what I was told by someone who works with furnaces and such that the flame sense is very sensitive to a good ground connection since the voltage that is generated by the flame sensor is very very small (millivolts). So if there is not a good ground connection between the circuit board/control module then it can cause problem. I tried a ground wire from the screw on the igniter to where the green wire is screwed to the sheet metal, but it didn't make any difference. I've also tried powering the heater from a different circuit - no difference. I've got a heavy copy wire running from the ground lug on the lower right front of the heater to the pool pump - didn't make any difference with that disconnected.

I'm going out now to poke around on it, I'm going to see if I can verify that the parts that make up the burners are really for natural gas as the heater indicates it is - not holding out for much hope that its the problem though.

If this heater isn't working by the end of the next week, I'm going order a different brand and start complaining further up the line at Hayward. Time to start looking for corporate email addresses.
 
  #54  
Old 06-19-08, 08:11 PM
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For what it's worth, the guy that I've been talking to at Hayward is Paul and he can be reached directly at (908)351-5400 x7612. I would encourage anyone who's having this problem to call him and explain what's going on. The more people that report the same problem, the better the chances that a resolution can be found for all of us.
 
  #55  
Old 06-20-08, 05:28 AM
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Those with new heaters that won't work

I read back through the posts, looks like there are six of us with new heaters that are having this problem:

sig45
annes
wildturkeysm
generaltso
jdgunn
mtb54703

Anyone else that I missed? New heaters only.
 
  #56  
Old 06-20-08, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by generaltso View Post
For what it's worth, the guy that I've been talking to at Hayward is Paul and he can be reached directly at (908)351-5400 x7612. I would encourage anyone who's having this problem to call him and explain what's going on. The more people that report the same problem, the better the chances that a resolution can be found for all of us.
I talked with Keith - don't know his direct extension though. I call Hayward this morning, asked for Keith and got is voicemail. Left a message - will give him a bit more time and then try the guy you mentioned.
 
  #57  
Old 06-20-08, 07:47 AM
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I noticed that In The Swim lists this heater as now only available in black. Of the people having this problem, is your heater the new black one? Mine is not. I'm just curious if there's any correlation.
 
  #58  
Old 06-20-08, 08:19 AM
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Mine is beige (or off white).
 
  #59  
Old 06-20-08, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by mtb54703 View Post
Mine is beige (or off white).
Same here. Does anyone have the black one?
 
  #60  
Old 06-20-08, 10:17 AM
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Possible solution!

I talked to Hayward and it was suggested I turn the gas output up to 2.5" wc (wc = water column) and my heater has been running for 30 minutes now. One thing I noticed first off, is that the burners ignited right away after making the output adjustment - sometimes it was taking a few seconds (almost 8 seconds at times) for the burner to ignite.

This heater is a replacement for a 5 year old one of the same model. The gas valve on the old heater said its output is 2.2" wc and the new one is 2" wc.

According to my relative that works in the HACV business, its not uncommon to get a bad control module out of the box - so if you get a control module replaced and still have problems it might be that you need more gas output.

Do not attempt to adjust your gas output pressure if you're not familiar with natural gas or are uncomfortable working with it. Call your local gas company or pool person.

To measure gas pressure you need a manometer. This is a pretty simple device that one can make for less than $10. You need the following:

- 12" x 30" piece of plywood.
- 1/8" NPT male fitting with a 3/8" barbed end.
- 8-10' of 3/8 clear tubing.
- 3/16" allen wrench

About 12" from the bottom of the board, make a line straight across and mark as 0. Then on one side, make lines every 1/2" up and label them 1, 2, 3, 4 up to 12. These are your inches of water column pressure. They are every 1/2" because the gas is pushing the water down a 1/2" and up a 1/2"

Now attach your tubing to the plywood in a "U" shape (see photo). Make sure you have about 3-4" of tubing below your zero line before you start your "U". I used fasteners for holding electrical wire to studs.

Fill the tubing with color water to the zero mark. The water level should be the same level on both sides when the end of the board is level and the board is vertical.

The gas valve has two allen screws/plugs. The one of the left will allow you to measure input pressure, the one on the right will allow you to measure output pressure (aka manifold pressure).

Be sure to turn your gas supply off before connecting to either side - use the valve on the line, not just the one of the gas valve.

Remove one of the allen screws/plugs. Screw in the 1/8" pipe fitting, attach the hose (just far enough to get over the first barb or you'll have a hard time getting it back off to remove the pipe fitting).

If you're measuring input pressure, turn on the gas (valve on the line) to the heater - the input pressure should be between 3" and 10.5" (according to specs in the manual). Turn off the gas and remove the hose, unscrew the pipe fitting and replace the allen screw! I put a bit of pipe compound on the screw just ensure a good seal.

If you're measuring output pressure, turn on the gas (valve on line) as well making sure the dial on the gas valve itself is on. Turn on the heater. You'll see the water level on manometer drop a bit as the fan turns on. When the gas valve opens, it will rebound and balance out at the 2" mark.

To raise the gas pressure - on the gas valve itself, there is a brass cap with a screw slot in it. I turned off the gas first before I took it off. I need to turn it one turn clockwise, then replaced the cap and turn the gas back on. Then turned the heater on and check the reading on the manometer.

I then turned everything off (gas included), and removed the pipe fitting and replaced the allen screw on the output port.



Again - don't attempt any of this if you don't know what you're doing!!!








 

Last edited by mtb54703; 06-20-08 at 10:54 AM.
  #61  
Old 06-20-08, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by mtb54703 View Post
I talked to Hayward and it was suggested I turn the gas output up to 2.5" wc (wc = water column) and my heater has been running for 30 minutes now. One thing I noticed first off, is that the burners ignited right away after making the output adjustment - sometimes it was taking a few seconds (almost 8 seconds at times) for the burner to ignite.
This certainly sounds promising. I'm surprised that Hayward wouldn't have the tech's try this before ordering any parts. It certainly sounds like the cheaper fix.

I guess I'll wait until the local heating guy comes back with new control module. If that doesn't fix it, I'll ask him if he can increase the gas output.
 
  #62  
Old 06-20-08, 06:31 PM
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Initially I turned the gas adjustment dial 1 full turn clockwise to get to 2.5" wc. I just backed it off 1/2 turn (1/2 turn counter-clockwise) and its still going - that should put the output pressure in the 2.25" wc area.

So the general fix should be - if your output pressure is already at 2" wc, turn it 1/2 turn clockwise.

Again - make sure you know what your doing or get a professional to help in this area.
 
  #63  
Old 06-21-08, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by mtb54703 View Post
Initially I turned the gas adjustment dial 1 full turn clockwise to get to 2.5" wc. I just backed it off 1/2 turn (1/2 turn counter-clockwise) and its still going - that should put the output pressure in the 2.25" wc area.

So the general fix should be - if your output pressure is already at 2" wc, turn it 1/2 turn clockwise.

Again - make sure you know what your doing or get a professional to help in this area.
How's the heater today? Still working perfectly since you made the adjustment?

Now that it's working, do you plan to leave the thermostat set to maintain a good swimming temp all the time or just crank it up when you plan on using the pool? Does it use more gas to get it back up to temp than it would to just let it maintain the temp? I've never had a heater before, so I'm a little concerned about what my first gas bill is going to look like.

Thanks for all of your work on this problem!
 
  #64  
Old 06-21-08, 10:37 AM
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24 hour update

Heater is still running. It took the pool (24' round above ground) from 70 degrees yesterday morning to 87 degrees in just under 24 hours. About 88 is where I like it.

I have the pool pump on a timer that runs about 10 hours out of the day (unless its been on manual override like it has been). What I'll do now is back the thermostat down to where it clicks off and then turn off the manual override and see if the 10 hours of pump time keeps the pool in the current temperature area.

I also have a clear solar cover on the pool when not in use.

It probably costs $50/month maybe - its hard to tell - I'll know better when I get my next gas bill since it will include the current month when I didn't use the heater and the same period last year as a reference when I did use the old heater.

If you still have all your heater parts (the tech didn't take anything with him) it might be worth a shot to unscrew the brass dust cap on the gas valve and give the screw underneath a 1/2 turn to the right (clockwise) and then see if your heater stays on. This should put your output pressure at about 2.25" wc.
 
  #65  
Old 06-21-08, 12:55 PM
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I just tried turning that screw a half-turn clockwise, and that seemed to do the trick! Now the heater fires right up and seems to stay running. It's only been about 20 minutes, so it's not quite definitive, but it's definitely looking good. It would certainly seem that 2" WC just isn't quite enough to keep these heaters running. Thank you so much for figuring this out!

My pool is at about 75 degrees now, and I like it around 84. I guess I'll let it run and see how long it takes to get there. It's a 24' round just like yours, so it will probably heat at around the same rate.
 
  #66  
Old 06-21-08, 01:36 PM
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I found mine blowing cold air about an hour ago, so I added another 1/4 clockwise turn to the gas output adjustment. That makes for a total of a 3/4" turn clockwise from the original postition - running again just fine.

General - glad to hear your heater is now running. One would have thought the tech you had on site might have tried that, as you said, it a quick check if nothing else to make sure the circuit board is working.
 
  #67  
Old 06-21-08, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by mtb54703 View Post
I found mine blowing cold air about an hour ago, so I added another 1/4 clockwise turn to the gas output adjustment. That makes for a total of a 3/4" turn clockwise from the original postition - running again just fine.

General - glad to hear your heater is now running. One would have thought the tech you had on site might have tried that, as you said, it a quick check if nothing else to make sure the circuit board is working.
Yeah, you would think that would be one of the first things they would try before ordering parts. I'll keep a close eye on mine to see if I need to adjust it anymore.
 
  #68  
Old 06-22-08, 03:18 PM
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same problem fixed?

I was having the same problem with a brand new h100id1. it would light for 10 sec and shut off. for the first couple tanks of propane I would just keep trying and eventually it would stay lit, but this last tank full i could not get it to stay on. So I came here looking for help.

I turned the internal reg adjustment clockwise 1/2 turn and presto, the heater lit like a champ and stayed on the first time. Even when it lit before it took 5-6 seconds of clicking of the ignitor before it fired, now it lights on the first click and stays on. I dont have a manometer so I dont know the actual pressure, but the extra 1/2 turn seems to be the answer

C.
 
  #69  
Old 06-22-08, 05:45 PM
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The pool heated right up to 86 without any problems. After I adjusted the thermostat back down, I did catch the heater blowing cold air once. I turned it off and back on and it's been cycling on and off on its own all afternoon without any problems. I think I'll probably add that extra quarter turn just to be safe since it did fail to stay lit that one time.
 
  #70  
Old 06-23-08, 05:31 AM
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I caught the heater blowing cold air again this morning, so I added another quarter turn to the adjustment screw. I'll continue to keep an eye on it and see how it goes.
 
  #71  
Old 06-28-08, 09:48 AM
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Since adding that extra quarter turn, the heater seems to be working perfectly. I haven't seen it blow cold air at all and it's maintaining the pool at 84 degrees with the pump running 10 hours a day. So far, so good.
 
  #72  
Old 06-28-08, 03:58 PM
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Adjusting the gas valve pressure did the trick!! I was at my wits end trying to figure out why my unit wouldn't stay on. Too bad the manufacturer couldn't figure this out. They will waste a lot of money sending customers unnecessary parts. I registered to this site today just to say THANK YOU!!

 
  #73  
Old 06-30-08, 10:15 AM
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Mine has been running for 1 week plus with 3/4 turn clockwise on the gas valve to increase the output (somewhere around 2.4" WC). I've only caught it blowing cold air once.
 
  #74  
Old 07-03-08, 05:36 AM
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I took the lazy approach - instead of measuring the pressure I am just moving the valve in quarter turns until I get some success. If it doesn't work, I will break down and buy the parts!

I think that we should really organize and contact Hayward formally about this. Their repair guys that are not taking care of the problem (mine said that nothing was wrong and it needed a clean - cost me $186 and my heater started blowing cold air about one week after he left). The expense of the wasted repair is not nearly as bad as the lost time in the pool.

Any thoughts on how we might go about this? Letter to the president? Would people be interested in signing onto this letter?
 
  #75  
Old 07-04-08, 04:45 AM
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still cant get it

Hi Guys,same problem here.went as far as a full turn but nothing.I dont want to go any further without a prof here.Have put in a new water pressure swith this week due to leaking but that didnt help either. Last week I took out the burners and cleaned them out and it worked for a good week or so.Also have jumped every switch and nothing is helping this week. HELP!!!!!
 
  #76  
Old 07-04-08, 08:32 AM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
Posts: 46
Originally Posted by ggugs1 View Post
Hi Guys,same problem here.went as far as a full turn but nothing.I dont want to go any further without a prof here.Have put in a new water pressure swith this week due to leaking but that didnt help either. Last week I took out the burners and cleaned them out and it worked for a good week or so.Also have jumped every switch and nothing is helping this week. HELP!!!!!
Is this a new heater?

Any ignition at all?

Can you hear sparking from the igniter?

Can you hear the gas valve open?
 
  #77  
Old 07-05-08, 05:19 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 52
Can someone post instructions on how to take out the burners and clean them? The pressure thing doesn't appear to be working for me and when the repair guy came - he said he couldn't find anything wrong and all he said he did was clean the burners and it worked, for a couple of weeks anyway!
 
  #78  
Old 07-06-08, 04:38 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 5
still out

i am still n/g.Burners com on lights up fine and dies out after about 5-10 seconds.i have turned the screw a full turn but nothing.im afraid to go any more.I have he gas co comming tue to give me a measurment. anyone have any other ideas??
 
  #79  
Old 07-06-08, 08:02 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
Posts: 46
If the burners come on, and go off again within 10-12 seconds, then you've got an issue with the control module not getting a flame sense. Could be:

- gas supply issue
- dirty burners
- faulty control module

Is this a new unit this season?
 
  #80  
Old 07-07-08, 06:37 AM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 5
not new

no the unit is 3 years old. the gas company is comming tomorrow to check the gas pressure readings thanks Gary
 
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