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Hayward H100ID, ignites, but cools quickly

Hayward H100ID, ignites, but cools quickly

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  #121  
Old 04-22-09, 08:25 AM
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I don't suggest bypassing anything, what is the little black thing you mentioned? If you'd like I can talk you through
 
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  #122  
Old 04-27-09, 07:37 AM
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A sort of fix

I was having major problems with the heater. I had changed out the gas valve and the control board but no luck.

but when i did change the gas valve it wouldnt light but it would stay on. so then i called the tech support guys at hayward.

they said to change the burner orifice. I dont know if was that that fixed the heater. but its working now.

the reason why i dont know is i changed the gas valve and the burner orifice out at the same time.

the burner orifice is the 2 gold pieces coming out of the black gas line that release gas into the the chamber with the igniter.

oh yes. I also changed the igniter.

altogether in the 4 week process i went through 2 gas values, 3 igniters, 1 control board and a big long headache.

I have just purchased an extra gas value, igniter, burner orrifice and control just incase it goes out again.

So it cost me around $1000 for all those parts. Thanks hayward.
 
  #123  
Old 06-14-09, 08:02 AM
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Here we are - another season - same problem. I wanted to post the description of my issue to make sure I am heading down the right path to fix this. I opened the pool last weekend and the heater ran all weekend! This weekend of course it is back to it's old ways.

When the heater has been sitting for a while and I turn it on everything fires up fine. The burners run for about 5-10 minutes and then stop - the fan keeps going but it is only blowing air. After a minute or so I hear what sounds like the electric ignition clicking but the burners do not ignite. It does this once more and nothing happens. If it turn it on and off at this point it only clicks but no flame. If I come back later and turn it on, it will fire up but do the same thing.

I tried adjusting the gas valve under the brass cap but this seems to do nothing.

I read in the posts here that if the burners run for a while then the flame sensor might be the issue? I also read that the heat limit sensor might be an issue - this seems like the case here - especially as it works when cold. Is it possible I have turned the gas supply up too high and the flame is too big? Is this the case or could this still be a gas flow issue? If it is a gas flow issue then I will start work on creating the manometer so I can read the actual pressure.

FYI - Last season I got in touch with the president of Hayward via email and got a response. He put me in charge with one of his inside technicians but it was the end of the season so it wasn't worth them coming out. I have now been in touch with them again and I am hoping they will come out and look at it - at least it won't cost me any money - I hope!
 
  #124  
Old 06-14-09, 11:41 AM
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Update:

I went ahead and made my own manometer anyway. Gas pressure is fine both in and out.

I then decided to check the wiring. I used a multi-tester to check the wiring and everything seems to be in order. With the heater on I am getting a steady reading through each of the various sensors all the way to the gas valve. My test was not conclusive but it shows me that none of the sensors are triggering and cutting off power.

At this point I have given up and will wait to see if I can get the manufacturer' technician to show up.
 
  #125  
Old 06-14-09, 04:36 PM
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what is the mv reading when heater off and what when on?
 
  #126  
Old 06-14-09, 06:09 PM
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I didn't check the actual voltage, I was only looking for a reading. It seemed like it was the same level at each point in the process. Twice I got it in the hand and I am guessing it was around 12V! I can check the readings and post this if it helps.
 
  #127  
Old 06-17-09, 06:04 AM
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Hayward sent out one of their technicians to check the heater. Apparently everything is working fine with the heater - the incoming gas pressure is dropping below the required minimum when the pool heater fires up and this is causing the burners to shut down. This does sound feasible - when I hooked up the manometer I noticed that the pressure coming in was near the lower limit. What I didn't do is run the heater when hooked up to the gas input, only the gas output. I called the Gas company and they are going to send someone out to test the pressure. I don't know if that will do anything but presumably they can turn it up a couple of notches?
 
  #128  
Old 07-04-09, 04:38 PM
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Smile Fixed H100id heater problem

As everyone else I have same problem. I fixed it by checking the control module. Found the spark plug adapter was loose - Everything fine after I re-soldered the pins on the circuit board.
Seems things made in China have poor quality control checks...
 
  #129  
Old 08-08-09, 04:23 PM
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fixed

Just to add my experience; intermittently would not fire on start up. This has happened since new (3 yrs ago).

Found poor solder joint on control board. Fixed, thanks to this thread!

I'll be in the pool if you need me.
 
  #130  
Old 08-09-09, 02:16 AM
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Hayward called the repair guy for me. He came in and replaced the board. Everything now works and I am out over $500. Which if I recall is about 2/3 the price of the original heater. I am hoping that I get a couple more years out of it before it starts to fail again. Add my frustrating situation and wasted time to the others on this board. The repair guy tells me that you can't expect much from this systems (from any manufacturer) that are exposed to the elements and have these kind of moving parts. I think we should and could expect more. Anyone willing to take up the cause with Hayward?
 
  #131  
Old 04-17-10, 12:54 PM
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Flame Detector Solutions

If your heater ignites but won't stay on, there may be a problem with the flame detector. The flame detector is a secondary function of the igniter in which the control board attempts to pass a small current through the electrodes. If a flame is present, the current passes through the flame. If this is detected by the control board, it will keep the gas valve turned on. Try the following:

1. Ensure the heater is standing perfectly vertical. If it is even slightly tilted, the igniter electrode may not be well positioned in the flame and unable to detect it.

2. Remove the igniter and bend the igniter electrodes closer. Don't try to bend the HV electrode as you might break the insulator, but do try to bend the ground electrode. A reasonable gap is 1/4".

3. Remove the igniter. If it is corroded, try to clean it. You might use steel wool. Also make sure the screws holding the igniter in place are tight enough to make a good ground connection and there is no corrosion.
 
  #132  
Old 05-28-10, 11:06 PM
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hayward h100id

I converted my heater from gas to l.p. gas. If it is cool ( not run all night) it will fire up run for about 10min than the gas valve closes ( shuts down the flame ) and will not relight.If I shut it down it will only relight for a sec. then shut down. I checked the board connections,all good.I increased the output pressure,still no luck. I'm lost I need help PLEASE
 
  #133  
Old 05-29-10, 12:21 AM
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My Intermittant Gas Control Solution

I have finally resolved the issue with my heater. The symptom - it would startup and run for a minute, then the gas would shut off but randomly turn on briefly a couple times every minute or so.

I'm an Electrical Engineer so I confirmed the problem was the control board (inputs were good, output was bad). Others have indicated they've found bad solder connections, but all were good on my board. So I traced out the whole circuit. There is a microcontroller on the board that turns on the gas by outputting a ~500 Hz square wave. The square wave is capacitively coupled and diode clamped to a +5V supply. Then it's half-wave rectified and filtered. All this is to ensure that a failure of the microcontroller will not leave the gas turned on. The gas won't turn on if the microcontroller output is simply high or low - only if it is cycling high/low at ~500 Hz. In my case, the problem was the diode in the clamp, which was intermittant. I simply soldered another diode (1N4005) in parallel with it and it's worked ever since.

This is very unusual failure mode for a diode. It seems unlikely that others will have this problem, but perhaps the manufacturer got a whole batch of bad diodes? The diode in question was CR3. Any techies out there will probably suspect a bad solder joint, but I'm 100% sure it was the diode as I soldered the replacement to the leads of the old one - without disturbing the original solder joints - just to be sure of my diagnosis.

I should caution that people shouldn't mess with the controller if they're not sure what they're doing. You definitely don't want your gas turning on without the igniter working correctly. That's the microcontroller's primary task. Make repairs at your own risk.
 
  #134  
Old 05-29-10, 06:52 AM
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More than likely your heat exchanger is dirty and needs to be cleaned, both on top and inside.
 
  #135  
Old 05-30-10, 01:07 PM
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Hi all, back for another season with the heater! Mine wouldn't do anything this year so I opened the top. While getting ready to trace the wiring and see where the voltage was getting cut off I gave the top of the fan a spin and it kicked right in! Not sure what that was all about?

It seems like the heater is taking longer to heat the pool right night. I know there are two speeds to the fan - does this control the rate that it heats the water? I can feel the heat about 6-8 inches above the exhaust - it seems to me that last season I couldn't hold my hand that close as it was too hot. Is it possible that the fan is only running at the slower speed and therefore not heating the water as warm? Thanks.
 
  #136  
Old 05-30-10, 08:26 PM
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I got no response for my other post Still having problems. I need some help before I spend $230.00 for a new control.That might not be the problem
 
  #137  
Old 05-31-10, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by lilbaja View Post
I got no response for my other post Still having problems. I need some help before I spend $230.00 for a new control.That might not be the problem
I replied to you on the 29th. please read above
 
  #138  
Old 05-31-10, 09:10 AM
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Please start a new thread with your particular problems.
 
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