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Blue Ridge Hot Tub Tripping Breaker, Not Heating

Blue Ridge Hot Tub Tripping Breaker, Not Heating

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  #1  
Old 05-25-08, 10:52 AM
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Join Date: May 2008
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Blue Ridge Hot Tub Tripping Breaker, Not Heating

We have a Blue Ridge Hot tub/Spa that is not heating and tripping the breaker.

Model (?) 79337 For Spa's Equipped with Systems 9063 on the manual.
Heater Model 31-300

Here is what it's doing:

With the High Limit Switch kicked out the breaker will stay on, but the pump won't work.

With the High Limit Switch reset the GFI breaker in the breaker box in the house will trip immediately.

All the lines, filters etc have been flushed out.

Fuses in the power center under in the skirt of the spa have been replace, there was a 30amp fuse and a 10 amp fuse.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve
 
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  #2  
Old 05-25-08, 02:19 PM
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5
Ok, I unplugged the cord that goes to the heater assembly from the control panel and when I turn the breaker back on it stays and the jets work.

Heater Model is E2550-0300ET, I was mistaken before on the actual "heater" model.

If someone thinks it's the heater element, on this particular model do I have to buy the whole heater assembly or can I purchase just the element.

Also, anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the hearter assembly without having to empty the entire spa and have to refill it just to test if heater is working.

Thanks
 
  #3  
Old 06-07-08, 06:27 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Now retired and in Wisconsin
Posts: 27
Sure sounds like your heating element has "opened" up and causing your problem. Now you can replace that element if you want. I'ts the same element used in many vertical can type heaters, Aquatherm,Blue Ridge, Gatsby etc..

Element model number you'de be looking for is a EHBEAQ55 , it is a 5.5KW 230V Pig Tail style element.

will probably run you around $100.00 online somewhere. Most would just buy a new heater Assembly, and if you can find a good deal then you've got a whole assembly to swap out directly, with new cords and pressure switch too.
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As far as draining the unit I'm not sure, If you dont have any Ball or Gate style valves to the two water supply lines then the answer would be yes.

You can always check the condition of the element once you have the assembly out, you may be suprised at what water chemistry has done to it!.. It's very commen since its the only metal componant in direct contact in the water

Good Luck

Richard
 
  #4  
Old 06-29-08, 03:08 PM
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5
Replaced Heater, now another problem

I just went ahead and ordered a new heater and installed it. Not it seems the circulating pump isn't working.

It's getting power because it gets hot but it won't run, hum, click, choke or make any sound at all. (I don't think it was running before I replaced the heater either)

I removed the pump, a Laing SM 909NHW-14, 1 inch, and took a screwdriver to see if it was froze up or something and it turns but it's very wobbly inside the housing, is it suppose to wobble from side to side.

Now I'm starting to wonder if my heater was ever bad at all since I find it odd, that both of these very expensive items have gone bad at exactly the same time.

Any thought or suggestions?
 
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