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Sta-Rite motor replacement with different HP

Sta-Rite motor replacement with different HP

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  #1  
Old 05-31-08, 11:22 AM
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Sta-Rite motor replacement with different HP

Hello,
I read the thread about replacing a pool motor, thanks for the info, I learned a bit more about our problem.
Our pump just broke down and we need to replace it I believe within 1 day, or we get algae. It is Saturday and our local Pools of Fun store doesn't sell these kinds of parts over the weekend.
I found out we need QC1102 (or UQC1102) motor replacement for our K48l2PA105 Sta-Rite Max-E-Glass II system.
Please, can we replace 1HP pump for a 1.5 HP pump to 'slow down' brakeage time?
Our pool is only 7 ears old and this is already 3rd time the pump broke.
Actually we replaced everything already 1-2 times, we are getting really frustrated with the problems and expenses.
Thank you very much in advance
 
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  #2  
Old 05-31-08, 11:55 AM
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What exactly is happening to these motors causingf replacement? Pump will usually last many years unless there is a problem. Can you take a pic of your equipment and post it? Throw a little granular chlorine in pool will keep it from turning green.
 
  #3  
Old 05-31-08, 01:26 PM
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Thank you for such a fast response.

I will try to attach a picture I just made. Sorry, it doesn't work, here is a link instead: http://picasaweb.google.com/listulda...42521265242370

We used to have a chlorinator as well; it broke 3rd time 2 weeks ago. We were recommended to cut it off due to another repair. I hope that is not causing problems, we put tablets in the skimmers now.

Thank you again.
 

Last edited by giants; 05-31-08 at 01:33 PM. Reason: attaching for asked image
  #4  
Old 05-31-08, 01:40 PM
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Looks like you have a good typical installation. What is happening to pump? Chlorine tabs should not be put in skimmer, the high concentrations of chlorine is running straight threw your equipment. You should have auto chlorinator or at min floater.
 
  #5  
Old 05-31-08, 02:19 PM
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The pump is unbearable loud, looks like the bearing is out. And it doesn't pump anymore.
Thanks, will buy floater for the tabs. Or if someone can recommend a good auto chlorinator, will buy and install another one.
 
  #6  
Old 05-31-08, 04:33 PM
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use a rainbow offline chlorinator.

I'm wondering if someone has switch motor hp versus impellar. Sta-rite is excellent equipment and you should not be having this trouble. If you would describe what has happened each time pump has gone bad. That looked like a cartridge filter, is it?
 
  #7  
Old 06-01-08, 06:55 AM
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I have 2 more pisc, please see http://picasaweb.google.com/listulda...55148469092626 for the whole system; and please see pic of the motor we took out yesterday: http://picasaweb.google.com/listulda...04497090429234
The rubber ring was separated with the heavy amount of white residue (calcium?) covering the whole square flange.
Pools of Fun replaced the whole pump 2 times before. We decided to replace the motor only to cut on the cost.
The pool equipment is installed far away from our house; we don't always hear the pre-signs of something getting broke. So far it was always too loud as the bearing would be broke and it wouldn't pump. As the rest of the equipment was exchanged, we found it not working, or not working properly.
We had to get our automatic pool cover replaced this year as well, it wasn't installed properly to start with, Pools of Fun had to come in numerous times to fix one side causing all sorts of problems. I am starting to suspect the company didn't install the whole thing as well as it should suppose to be. I have pics from the installation, if that would be helpful, I will add them to the picasa library.
I would like to add only, that my hubby is taking care each day of the pool, constantly cleaning, testing..., breakage is not due to neglecting of the pool.
Thank you very much
 

Last edited by giants; 06-01-08 at 07:24 AM.
  #8  
Old 06-01-08, 09:02 AM
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It is a good idea to replace just the motor, much cheaper. How often are you cleaning cartridge filter? There could be an issue with not being clean. Need to make sure to soak filter in a filter cleaner or use some cascade in large tub of hot water.
The motor looks like the seal started to leak and oxidation took place from the high concentration of chlorine being in the skimmer.
 
  #9  
Old 06-01-08, 09:06 AM
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Obviously the shaft seal went out on the pump, causing water to leak back into it and rust out the bearings. I'd suspect you're losing prime on the pump which is causing the pump to run dry and burn out bearings. Most likely there's a pin hole leak somewhere at the equipment (or elsewhere above ground and after the pump) and when the pump turns off, air is sucked in allowing the water in the pump to drain back into the pool. The leak could be so small, it doesn't leak out water, but allows air to go in.

This type of leak can be very difficult, if not impossible to find. Adding a check valve (2 actually) before the pump, to the two suction lines may solve the problem....... until the check valve fails
 
  #10  
Old 06-01-08, 10:37 AM
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Thank you for the tips.
We clean the cartridge filter once a month and could open the pool only 3 weeks ago for many reasons. As we open the pool, we use older set of filters and exchange for new in one week. We did cut the chlorinator off just 2 weeks ago and had 2 tablets in each skimmer for these 2 weeks.
Second thoughts about the floater: I am worried that the floater would destroy our brand new pool cover, which is closed the whole night and most of a day Mo. through Fri.
What is the difference between inline chlorinator and offline chlorinator? I wasn't able to find out on the net.
Dr. Spa, your suggestion make lots of sense too, however we are not as experienced to do it by ourselves.
 
  #11  
Old 06-01-08, 10:47 AM
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off line and inline are as said, the offline is not plumbed in the plumbing, it sits on the side and is fed with a small hose into the system causing no flow restriction. Ths inline is plumbed into the existing plumbing and causes flow restriction. Do you soak and use cleaner to clean filters? Just spaying them off is not enough because of the oils trapped in filter.
 
  #12  
Old 06-01-08, 01:12 PM
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My hubby soaks the filers in Cascade dishwashing liquid first, than spray-washes it off, than soaks them in muriatic acid and spray-washes them off again.
My hubby just came back from Pools of Fun (having the water tested) and said other people's pumps went out after 2-3 years again. He mentioned before that lots of other people in the store have similar problems to ours. These pools are all installed by local Pools of Fun. Is it possible, they install something incorrectly?
Thanks for all the responses; I really appreciate all your help.
 
  #13  
Old 06-01-08, 02:08 PM
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Excellent, he is doing the proper cleaning. What state are you in? The only thing I can see wrong is that there is a 1.5" pipe coming from filter to heater to pool. All others are 2" I would have used 2" for all, don't know why they used the 1.5
How is the circulation from the in floor cleaner? Does pressure guage work properly on filter? If so have him take cartridges out and put filter together and tell me the pressure with no cartridges in it. Watch guage for 15min for any flucuations. Let me know...
 
  #14  
Old 06-01-08, 02:25 PM
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Careful using the muriatic acid on the filters. The ONLY time it should be used is if there's any kind of mineral deposits on them. You can tell by the filters bubbling when they contact the acid (and they should be removed immediately after any bubbling stops). If there's no mineral deposits, and no bubbling, all you're doing is deteriorating the dacron fabric of the filters.
 
  #15  
Old 06-01-08, 02:27 PM
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We live in the state of Indiana.
The pressure has always been 30 to 31 every since they installed the pool. Right now is 30. It should work properly, at least we hope so.
We already replaced the bottom of housing 3 years ago and the top of housing last year.
We will take the filters out tomorrow, sorry, it is about to rain in here, hopefully no thunderstorms.
We used to leave the filters soak in the muriatic acid overnight per the Pool of Fun instruction. Thank you for the tip, we will watch it closely now.
 

Last edited by giants; 06-01-08 at 03:14 PM.
  #16  
Old 06-02-08, 05:52 PM
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We took the filters out and waited till the modular media filter filled up with water. The pressure went up to 29; than down to 25. It went down to 25 about every 40 seconds, staying at 25 for 4-5 seconds max and before it jumped up to 30's back. The Paramount made hissing noise. I noticed hat happens when the first pop-up valve at the bottom of the 20x40 pool pops up). The pressure stayed typically on 29 or 30, down to 23 or 24, all with 3 times going up to 35 within the 15 minute period.

To add to broken stuff this year, the ring at the very bottom of the modular media filter for the small filter broke while we were taking the filters out. My hubby wanted to wait with the taking of the filters out, cause the ring was showing age at the insert of new filter this year. But I insisted on doing it. We will buy new pressure rings tomorrow, the store is closed for today.

The pressure is about the same after putting the filters back in (with the broken pressure ring), staying mostly at 29, going down to 25 once a while for 5 seconds only. I do remember this hissing sound of the Paramount here and there for the whole time we have the pool. However we believe this must be typical for the pool setup we have.

The Paramount was replaced 5 years ago by the Pools of Fun. We found out while ordering the replacement service, that the original Paramount was already 4 years old unit. We had the pool only for 2 years, which means Pools of Fun installed used Paramount into a brand new pool and equipment.
 
  #17  
Old 06-02-08, 07:50 PM
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WOW!! Sounds like they are a pretty bad company. I just read through the posts and you said you have a 1hp pump? If I'm not mitaken, most paramount systems require a larger hp especially being a 20x40 I would consider upgrading to a 2hp.
 
  #18  
Old 06-03-08, 03:16 AM
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Could you please let us know what do the pressure numbers mean?
To the pool size it is not only 20x40, but it is also 8 feet deep at the end side.
We will buy next time 2HP motor, we found a store and got 1HP pump this Sunday already.
Anything else you could recommend for us to slow down breakage of the equipment?
Thank you much for all the responses
 
  #19  
Old 06-03-08, 06:31 AM
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The pressures told me that your paramount is functioning and there does not seem to be obstruction in the line. Also that your filters are still ok. I can't believe that they only put a 1 hp pump on pool. Maybe you can call the store and ask if they would take the 1 back if you buy a 2 ? Would work alot better for you and should last 5 years or better.
 
  #20  
Old 06-05-08, 06:57 PM
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just have to wade in here, good comments, as stated before the starite is top notch equipment ! the pump appears to be a dura 2 which is a high flow pump, if i understand you correctly your original pump is a 1 hp. & you want to go to a 1.5 hp ? ?

quick observations..... i agree the 1 1/2 " plumbing should be replaced with 2 "

pressure is very high, however with your floor cleaner system this is normal, in my humble opinion, the good they do is far outweighed by the negative factors,

the high filter pressures [ resistance to water flow ] means more wear & tear on your pump.

however the pump in the pic. obviously had a bad seal as stated previously,

if you havn't replaced your test reageants in one year do it !
if you are not using a 4 bottle test kit BUY ONE, keep your ph 7.4 to 7.6 low ph can be the reason the seal went out,

install a jandy type check valve on the suction side of your system, [ jandy as it is non restricting ] yes i know it will have to be replumbed but, one should have been put on to begin with, not many builders do.

steve
 
  #21  
Old 06-07-08, 11:34 AM
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The pump should be MAX-E-PRO II. There is no label on the pump to confirm the paperwork we have from Pools of Fun for this pump.
The new motor model we installed is B853 / 1hp, 3450RPM / 230/115 Volts 60hz. / 7.1/14.2 amps / Service Factor 1.25 with total HP 1.3. That was the only pump motor available in local stores we could find.
We are in an process of getting a free replacement from the Pools of Fun for the QC1102 model motor that broke. The previous broken motor was replaced May 5th 2007, this means the QC1102 worked less than 4 months. I find this unacceptable.

We do not have financial resources to replace all the plumbing from 1.5” to 2”. This would mean to destroy the concrete sidewalks and to dig the whole pool surrounding up, more work than as it was originally built. If the company would be liable for wrong installation and responsible for correction, we would be happy to replace the plumbing. I added 6 more pictures to the library. I took them at the time of pool installation, I believe all pipes going to skimmers are 2” and all pop-up valves and jets have 1.5” pipes: http://picasaweb.google.com/listulda...90303358219698
I can't supply sharper pictures, these are scans of regular photos.

We will replace test reagents with 4 bottle test kit for sure, thank you.

I noticed while researching the auto chlorinators, that a check valve for in-line chlorinator should suppose to be put in and it wasn’t. I don’t understand how a pool installing companies can do this if they know it will be causing problems? They charge large amount of money for the whole system and some clients end up with lots of problems each year. The maximum time of us using the pool in one season for us is 5 months.

Please let me know if we are stuck with every year parts replacements and repairs if we don’t exchange the 1.5” plumbing to 2”.

Thank you for all the tips again.
 

Last edited by giants; 06-07-08 at 01:18 PM.
  #22  
Old 06-07-08, 04:01 PM
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your piping underground looks fine, 2" the returns are fine 1 1/2 "

your motor is equevalant to 1.25 hp , the piping that would be recommended to replace is from filter to heater , and heater to multiport valve , the way it works is the water returns to the multiport valve, the gears turn slowly opening various 1 1/2 " lines ,

the pump is good quality, the motor is fine, a normal life cycle should be anywhere from 5 yrs to 8 yrs. your motor the one you posted a picture of , was destroyed due to the seal failing, several other people have discussed the hows & whys of seal failure, thats why i advised you to get a 4 bottle test kit & / or if you allready have one buy fresh reageants, with a 2 bottle test kit you WILL get into trouble as there are no test for acid demand, you have no idea how much acid to add, your running blind, adding either too much acid = ph low = bad on pump seal & copper [ as in your heater ] of course this takes some time , [ depending upon just how low your ph is ]

with the 4 bottle test kit after you take the ph test there is an acid demand test tells you exactly how much acid to add, but first off & for all additions of any chemicals you add , you have to know how many gallons are in your pool, this information is in the 4 in 1 test ,

steve
 
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