Hayward H250 Heater Stopped Working


  #41  
Old 06-18-12, 04:54 PM
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not enough mv replace generator if cleaned pilot.
 
  #42  
Old 06-19-12, 10:17 AM
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Finally made it down to Niagara Falls, NY, last Saturday and picked up a pilot kit from Pools and Spas (94.99+tax). Unfortunately the box was missing the brass coupler that attaches at the gas valve end. Tried using the old one but the little sealing washer in the fitting was a hair smaller than the tube. The washer was actually fitted into a groove in the tube from the factory. The replacement has to fit over the plain aluminum tube. Tried finding something like it at but no luck, so I'm now awaiting a mailed coupling from It's Murphy's law at work for sure!

Joshalex you should be getting more millivolts than that (I was getting close to one volt when I heated my generator with a torch, and I think you're supposed to get around 700 millivolts normally). Either you have a prematurely clogged pilot like mine or the generator is shot. Those valves are a fraction of what you paid in the US. I replaced mine a few years back and also overpaid like you :-(.
 
  #43  
Old 07-25-12, 06:58 AM
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Finally received the missing coupling yesterday. It took Niagara falls, New York, from June 16th to July 24th, 2012 to get the little coupling to me! They are smart enough to scavenge parts from boxes but too dumb to obtain the correct customs forms to get something like that to a customer! It appears they were trying to use US Customs forms to send the part to Canada. It wasn't until they told me they were getting US Customs forms from UPS (meaning USPS) that I told them they had to use Canada Customs forms. In any event it took them three attempts to get that part through Canada Customs! I have bought my first and last item from this company.

quickcurrent
 

Last edited by todrut; 07-25-12 at 08:42 AM.
  #44  
Old 07-25-12, 07:15 AM
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While I was waiting for my coupling, and watched the summer slip away before I could get the pool heater fired up, I contacted Hayward to try to get the coupling I needed from them. I received the worst possible outcome from them - no service at all. First, I contacted Customer Service and told them my story. They admitted they had no supply of pilot kits for a period of three weeks when these things fail as people try to start up their heaters, hence the reason no dealer in my area could tell me when they'd be able to get me one, and also the reason I decided to get one in New York, where they were available. Then the lady conferred with Tech Assistance who advised her to tell me that I would have to deal with the dealer I had purchased the pilot kit from! Something is wrong when Customer Service is subservient to Tech Assistance! I asked the lady to patch me through to her supervisor, some dude named Johnson, and I left him a message. He never called back! She did mention to me to call a local service guy under contract with them to see if he had a loose coupling laying around. I left him a message and he never called back!

The Customer Service lady told me that Hayward were the best pool heaters, hahaha... Well, I have never had any problems with furnaces or water heaters in my 35 years of home ownership and have nothing but nightmares with this pool heater that has 12 years of use less than 3 months per year, the equivalent of less than three years of continuous operation! - they all use similar parts - I can only conclude that Hayward heaters are inferior pieces of equipment to stay clear of, as I will when my heater needs replacing.

It also seems that no one at Hayward has ever heard of demand forecasting which would enable them to have the parts on hand to supply its customers rather than making them wait three weeks plus while they make the parts! And their customer service is non-existent - I doubt they know what that means either. My next pool heater will have a different label on it, for sure.
 
  #45  
Old 07-25-12, 07:28 AM
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Rants aside, I finally got my heater going, but not so smoothly!

I put everything back together yesterday, lit the pilot which stayed lit, turned on the main switch, cranked up the thermostat and waited for the grand event so long in coming, when it let me down again! It was getting dark in the evening so I decided to leave until this morning.

This morning I tested everything as per the manual, and had to get right near the end where it says to short the main system switch. I couldn't get the shorting wires to the terminals to short it because of the plastic covering the wires going to the switch, so I started pulling at the wires connectors on the switch when the heater suddenly fired up! I suppose it's corrosion on the wire ends that wasn't making good contact. So I'll keep my fingers crossed now.

One more time, I'd like to give praise where praise is due - todrut for being of such great help on this forum - the exact opposite of the people at Hayward and its dealers who hold us captive, take far too much of our money for such crappy products and service. Kudos to todrut...

Have a good summer everybody.
 
  #46  
Old 07-25-12, 08:48 AM
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I'm glad to hear you got it going, Sorry to hear your experience with hayward, I've heard alot of complaints about them. Thanks for the kudos, I do my best!!!
 
  #47  
Old 07-25-12, 06:26 PM
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UPS - United Parcel Service
USPS - United States Postal Service

Different indeed
 
  #48  
Old 08-28-12, 05:47 PM
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Similiar issues with my Hayward 250. Millivolt style.

I went through the "Heater will not fire" procedure in the manual.Pilot works. Jumped across both TH on the gas valve and the main burner lit. Jumped across the pressure switch did not light. Jumped the thermostat, the high limits,system switch and the high temperature limiter terminals and did not fire.
However, when I took the 2 leads from the pressure switch and joined them the heater fired up. Does this mean that the problem is in the pressure switch even though the burner did not fire up when I jumped the pressure swith with the leads on. Or is it possible that I did not jump the pressure switch properly in the first place?
 
  #49  
Old 08-28-12, 07:03 PM
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is done properly it would mean pressure switch is bad or there is not enough pressure to operate.
 
  #50  
Old 06-22-13, 10:17 AM
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My maintenance headaches are back with this heater

I just followed the owner's manual troubleshooting all the way to where it says "Contact Hayward Technical Service". This sounds bad!

In other words, the millivolt heater (pilot generator assembly replaced last year) fires up when jumping the gas valve (replaced 08), but not when jumping the pressure switch (replaced 08), thermostat, either of the two high limit switches, system switch, or the high temperature limiter terminals by the water connections. I see a lot of rust on the terminals of the high limit switches. The pressure reading on my meter is 13.

Any ideas what might be happening? Do I need to scrap this heater?

TIA
 
  #51  
Old 06-22-13, 11:04 AM
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if it does not fire when bypassing all safeties, check millivolts, it is either pilot generator or valve
 
  #52  
Old 06-23-13, 07:32 PM
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Thanks again todrut.

I checked the millivolts, over 700 - all good.

Then I jumped the wires on the gas valve and it fired up and stayed lit, now it's all good.

I believe the problem was some air getting into the gas supply pipe between the winter gas shut off valve and the gas valve in the heater - about 2 feet of pipe. What I don't know is how air could get in there unless there is a tiny leak somewhere that alloows gas to leak out when the shut off valve is turned on and air to infiltrate when the shut off valve is turned off over the winter!
 
  #53  
Old 11-14-13, 03:34 PM
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I've been working on and off on our hayward pool heater for a while. I was looking for a pic of the pilot assy, and found one linked here so i linked to it til i can grab my own hope that is ok.

trying to fill in the details and parts as i go along with it. maybe its useful to someone else.

Hayward H250 ED1 Pool Heater Electronic Ignition | Dr Terrible's House of Bloggable


cheers
 
  #54  
Old 11-14-13, 04:18 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Did you have a question ?
 
  #55  
Old 11-14-13, 05:57 PM
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i'd but, i'm still on the do it myself track . It looks like someone has changed out the gas valve in my heater, so where the manual says jumper TH-TH i only have TH TR, and four wires, but two of them are integral to the valve. so logic dictates the only two i could jumper would be TH -TR .

The OEM valve seems like its a robertshaw, and as best i can figure this ones a White Rodgers 36D27 ( or close to it)

I'm pretty sure the pilot is now blocked or corroded and its not getting a flame detect, so jumpering the gas valve is the way to test that, obviously i don't want to go around jumpering things without knowing what it shoudl be.

curious if anyones got pictures of the wiring of a robertshaw on that heater though. Like i said, theres only two wires, so it'd be an assumption to jumper those, but what if the robertshaw has some internal connection that you jumper that this valve doesn't

cheers
 
  #56  
Old 11-30-13, 09:01 AM
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Bad wire in the ignition, the wire had become loose over the years inside the insulator, and was only making contact sometimes. Replaced it and its's off and running again.
 
  #57  
Old 05-24-14, 08:33 PM
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I read your thread on Hayward Pool Heater startup issues. I recently bought a house with in-ground pool and Hayward H250FDP Propane Heater. The display panel lights go on and the unit fires up, but I cannot control the thermostat...so, it runs full bore until I shut it down (Standby). Not super safe or efficient. My pool guy says "it might be the display panel, or then again it might be the 'board'."
Any suggestions of a way to test? These parts are expensive!

Thanks.
USNY
 
  #58  
Old 05-25-14, 07:34 AM
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there is safety stops set up to prevent this, I've never heard of this happening in my 22 years in the business. I would contact hayward and get a rep out there.
 
  #59  
Old 08-07-15, 04:35 PM
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And the trouble continues ...

This spring I could not get this heater ti fire up again, so I cleaned the pilot thoroughly and put it all back. It still would not fire up so I did the trouble diagnostics and when I got to the valve, by jumping the TH connections I was able to get it started. Then it kept going until a couple of days ago!

A couple of days back it would fire up but would only stay on while I held the wire to the TH terminals. As soon as I lifted off the wires, it would stop. So I figured it was the valve again, since jumping all the switches did nothing and I was getting about 700 millivolts on the multimeter.

So I scrounged around to find a valve to replace the old one with and it seems everybody was out of these gems! I finally found one, but it's a little different from the old one; I think it's because it's made by a different supplier. This one is made by Jandy. I am wondering if someone can advise as to what to do with the wiring for this unit. The wiring diagram shows extra yellow wire connections, but there are only four wires coming from other parts - two from the pilot and another two from other parts. The site does not let me upload photos because of the number of pixels, so I uploaded a photo of the old valve, a photo of the new valve and the wiring diagram that came with the new valve here Gas Valves by Frank Lopes | Photobucket.
 
  #60  
Old 08-07-15, 05:55 PM
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red pilot gen wire goes to "PP"
white pilot gen wire goes to "PP/TH" along with yellow from valve & white wire from safety loop
black safety loop wire goes to "TH"
any other wires are for a electronic ignition
 
  #61  
Old 08-07-15, 06:49 PM
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Thank you very much, todrut. I was starting to wonder if I'd have to do some re-wring for this valve! There is a lot of crap in the wiring diagram that does not seem to match my heater!

I would also like to bleed the gas valve before starting up the heater. How do I do that? By turning on the gas and loosening the pilot tube to let any air out or how?
 
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Old 08-07-15, 08:13 PM
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usually bleed by opening the gas line at the coupling.
 
  #63  
Old 08-08-15, 05:32 AM
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Thanks, I'll try that.
 
  #64  
Old 08-08-15, 10:29 AM
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OK, with the new valve in place, the symptom remains the same! I can get the heater to fire up by jumping the TH terminals and also by jumping across the wire terminals on the thermostat. In both cases it takes several seconds for the heater to fire up. As soon as I remove the jumper wire, the heater shuts off. All the other safety items do not when jumped. What could be causing this?
 
  #65  
Old 08-09-15, 05:16 AM
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This ailment isn't covered in the owner's manual diagnostics flow chart. Does anyone have any ideas?
 
  #66  
Old 08-10-15, 10:25 AM
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By jumping the TH/TR on the gas valve you are taking all of the safeties out of the loop. My guess is somewhere along the string of safety switches in the heater there is one not closing properly. My first guess is the pressure switch. This diagram is a generic but, helpful one to understand the basics of what you are working on.




By jumping the D and F terminals in the image, you are effectively bypassing where ever the problem is in the system including the thermostat and in most cases the on/off switch. Once you establish that you can get this unit to fire, use a jumper wire and bypass each safety individually until you discover the guilty culprit. do not discount the on/off switch as being bad either. I had a customer a couple of years back replace almost everything in his heater before he called me. It turned out the bad part was the switch and I was able to install a new one for about $20.00.

Just reading back thru your post again...It sounds to me like you have a bad thermostat. Jumping it and the heater lights is a 99.9999% indicator that it is bad. You can confirm this with an Ohm meter. With the power off, you should get and open reading (very high number or an OL ) with the thermostat turned down and a closed reading (maybe a 0-5 ohm reading) with it turned up.
 
  #67  
Old 08-10-15, 12:01 PM
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are you sure you are consistently getting 700mv ? You did already test all your safety loop didn't you?
 
  #68  
Old 08-10-15, 06:47 PM
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Thanks, guys.

I was misinterpreting the results of my jumping terminals for several reasons 1) I did not remember having the gas valve behaving like it did, so I assumed it was bad and replaced it. I think it was still OK, but given it was seven years old, it was likely on its last legs anyways. 2) Jumping the thermostat terminals did not light up the heater because I hadn't touched the rear wire (hadn't taken the upper panel off completely and couldn't see the terminals properly. 3) The thermostat clicked as usual indicating a call for heat, so I assumed it was good. Once I took the panel off to test the thermostat (after replacing the valve) I was able to test it properly and realized that it was behaving strangely (just like the valve when jumped) - took a while to get the heater started, but did start it and keep it going so long as the jump wire was in place. Today I jumped the thermostat terminals for a few hours to heat up the water some. It was down to 76 degrees F!

I was looking at a Youtube video, and apparently the switch made by Eaton in the thermostat fails due to corrosion, and that I believe is what I need to get. I got a price from the guy that sold me the gas valve and he wants the same amount for the thermostat (C$350 +tax), which is insane, there is a place selling them right now in New Jersey for US$30 complete, but does not ship to Canada :-( . Around these parts, they are hard to get and very expensive. Today it was raining cats and dogs, but tomorrow I'll take the thermostat out get the Eaton made switch part number and see if I can get that somewhere.

I actually placed an order for the complete thermostat from Amazon.ca, then cancelled it when I found out they would not have it at my place until mid September (coming from UK!), by that time I will no longer need it as I usually turn the heat off usually at the end of the first week of September, when night time temperatures start to drop significantly.

I'll keep you posted.
 
  #69  
Old 08-10-15, 06:53 PM
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Yes to both questions, todrut.

The system switch is $35 here just for the part, danpik !!! Mine is OK. I'll test the switch in the thermostat for continuity.
 
  #70  
Old 08-11-15, 06:42 AM
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OK, I've taken apart the thermostat. My ohm meter shows no continuity on the thermostat switch, so it's toast. It clicks but obviously there is something that isn't right inside. The switch is made by Eaton and consists of a fiberglass case and plastic top where the push button switch is located. I can't see a part number on it! Mine looks quite good on the outside (likely because it's made of fiberglass which is extremely durable). I've looked in the Newark site but can't seem to find this switch. Perhaps it's officially called something else, anybody know? Here is a picture of the thermostat. Name:  thermostat.jpg
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The switch is the part with the beige case and black top, with electrical tab connectors.
 
  #71  
Old 08-11-15, 07:03 AM
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Here is the Youtube video, I referred to above.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5CVci6Zvp8
 
  #72  
Old 08-11-15, 08:52 AM
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Maybe this link has what you want

Eaton Mears Thermostats
 
  #73  
Old 08-11-15, 10:18 AM
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The problem with this site, danpik, is they ship only to the 48 contiguous states. Also, I don't know if the thermostat is a direct fit for the H250 heater as these are for spas! They do not appear to sell just the switch!
 
  #74  
Old 08-17-15, 07:52 AM
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Sorry, I have not been on this site in a while. I did not realize they only ship to the states. you could simply jump the two wires together and see if that eliminates the problem. I know of one heater like that around here (not mine) and all they do is use the on/off switch to control it. I do know they have "overheated" the pool a couple times.
 
  #75  
Old 08-17-15, 12:20 PM
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I have been turning on the heater manually in the morning for a few hours with the wires that normally go to the thermostat jumped, but that is only going to be a temporary fix until I get a thermostat from Amazon.ca (some CA$57 plus tax). They have them on back order from the UK, not sure when it will ship or get here, but I am prepared to continue this way until the end of the season, another 3 weeks or so, if necessary. I could not find the sole part that is bad (the switch) by itself. The crooked pool parts suppliers around these parts want $250 plus tax for these $20 parts, and I am not going to pay that !!!

The main switch, by the way, is also $35.00 here, probably costs $0.50 to make, and the Home Depot sells a rocker switch with the same electrical specs for some CA$3-4 (likely about $2 in the USA), but it's about 1/16 of an inch too large in both length and width. For anyone that is inclined to take a Dremel tool to the hole to enlarge it slightly, it could be made to work.

The prices charged for these parts, especially in the Great White North, are criminal.

Cheers
 
 

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