Aquarite chlorine generator

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  #121  
Old 11-28-11, 06:05 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: USA
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drfrancis, did you ever resolve your problem with "continuous generation"?
I have turned down my chlorinator all the way to 5%, but still have really high chlorine levels (18ppm). The outputs go to ~25volts and ~5.2amps a few seconds after I turn the unit on (ie generating), but don't go to 33v/0amps most of the time. It will go to 33v/0amps when I turn the unit off.

Reference to Post #71.
 
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  #122  
Old 12-11-11, 12:44 PM
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aquarite chlorine generator

Petal22,
If you are getting a "HI" on the display your salt reading is too high for the unit to function. You will need to determine what the actual salt reading is in the pool, and adjust the salt reading in the pool until you have a reading between 3000 and 3400 ppm. To do this, you need to lower the pool level and re-fill with fresh water until you reach the desired reading. This may take several lowering and adding sessions, or you can drop the level once and refill. I would do the prior rather than the latter. Then you will need to re-adjust the other chemicals to bring the pool back into balance. If you go back on other listings I added some other information on how to check the Aqua Rite and what each button on the unit will read. Hope this helps.
 
  #123  
Old 04-11-12, 05:01 PM
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Exclamation Aqua Rite loses amperage

I have the same problem that a lot of folks have but I noticed one thing. The amperage drops to zero and the generate shuts down. all lights go black. Then it takes about 2 minutes for the amperage to get back to 17.0. Then the generate and power lights come back on. After about 10 seconds amperage quickly drops to zero and everything shuts down. Then the cycle repeats. I have installed a new T-15 cell. Everything is set up correctly with jumpers, software rev. 1.55 on board etc. Board is only two years old. The fuse is good. Is there something wrong with the varistor (the black quarter thingy). I dont see any black marks at the connection and it appears to be in good shape. Any ideas?
 
  #124  
Old 04-23-12, 09:35 PM
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My symptoms are I have ONLY the power light, no other lights light. My thermistor was cracked and there were burn marks on the board. I replaced the thermistor, no change. Even when I disconnect the RJ11 for the flow switch, there is still no change, not even the "No Flow" light lights. I checked the voltage into the rectifiers, all good. I checked the output voltage from the rectifiers, all good. I checked the resistance on the transformer, all good.
The display shows 2600 always...instant salinity reading is 0.00. The two thermistors on either side of the power input "look" ok...
What to check next?
 
  #125  
Old 04-28-12, 09:50 AM
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Replaced Thermistor and Unit works but noisy & hot

Hi All,

I too had a bad thermistor, ordered a replacement and now the unit produces chlorine perfectly however it seems that it is running hotter than usual and is noisy/vibrations (seems to go away if you leave off the metal cover over the pcb/display).

Any ideas?

Thanks

Alan
 
  #126  
Old 05-16-12, 02:01 PM
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Ditto! - had exactly the same symptoms... found heat marks on the board where the Digikey part (digikey pt no. 570-1062-ND Current Limiter Inrush 2 OHM 25A) - ordered the part $2.69 ea - got the iron out and 10 minutes later generating chlorine like a new one. Saved me $250 for a replacement control board online and ~ $500 if dealer serviced! Udaman Dixon422!
 
  #127  
Old 05-16-12, 04:30 PM
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 2
I have it, too!

I have the same inrush current limit problems as everyone else. I ordered replacement parts, but here's a little twist that has not been discussed. I had a tech friend tell me that the inrush current limiting thermistor (SL32 2R025) will burn out if one of the capcitors that are directly in line with the thermistor goes out. It creats a dead short to the thermistor, which is what causes the thermistor to burn out and blackens the board. That may be why some folks are having noise and heat after replacing just the SL32.
Here is a list of the components I ordered from Digi-key(great website), based on some thread entries here and my friend's advice. I ordered extra, in case I get wild & crazy. I'm getting two of the SL32's, four of the giant capacitors and four of the varistors. Whopping total of $24.10 (before taxes and shipping). The varistors shown below are components on the board that are also inrush current limiting devices. They are designated as RZ1 and RZ2. If The SL 32 goes, maybe the varistors are getting weak, too. I will post back when I get the components and plug'r all back in. I'm tired of having a non-functional salt pool and paying for chlorine to keep it from attracting alligators. If AZ had alligators...

Stand by... Dan-o
[TABLE]

[TR]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]1[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]4[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]493-1328-ND[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]UVZ1V153MRD[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]CAP ALUM 15000UF 35V 20% RADIAL[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"][/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]0[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: right"]4.12000[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: right"]$16.48[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]2[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]2[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]SL32 2R025[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]SL32 2R025[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]CURRENT LIMITER INRUSH 2 OHM 25A[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"][/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]0[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: right"]2.69000[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: right"]$5.38[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]3[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]4[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]V150LA2P[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]V150LA2P[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]VARISTOR 150V 13J 7MM RADIAL LA[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"][/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: center"]0[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: right"]0.56000[/TD]
[TD="class: padding, align: right"]$2.24[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 7"][/TD]
[TD]Subtotal[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]$24.10[/TD]
[/TR]

[/TABLE]
 
  #128  
Old 05-18-12, 09:05 AM
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1
Dan-o please keep us posted.

I just ordered the SL32 2R 025 then tripped over your post. Let us know how you make out. If I've read your buddy's prognosis correctly this component's failure is possibly just a symptom of the capacitor and varistor failing. Sounds like I may need to replace those too. Thanks for the post!!!
 
  #129  
Old 05-28-12, 06:47 PM
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Posts: 1
i have a aqua trol my salt level is reading 1100 but the salt level from testing say 4200. cleaned cell twice in the past ten daysall else seems to be fine. need some guidence from some one.
 
  #130  
Old 05-28-12, 08:51 PM
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Aquarite Chlorine Generator Power Light Proble,

I have the same problem with the power and generator lights not working. However the unit does display the salt level (3000 currently), the tempertature and other readings. I have ordered the capacitor but am not experienced with soldering. Are there any soldering tips anyone can share to help me along. I will have to buy an iron and solder as well so any hints on what to get would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
  #131  
Old 06-02-12, 07:40 AM
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Location: Texas
Posts: 1,051
I have a salt system with an Aqua Rite controller. I just checked it and found that all lights are out. When I restarted it the red no flow light flashes as normal, then the power light and generator light come on for a few seconds and then all go out. The salt level is reading 3100 as well as the temperature but nothing else showing up regarding cell voltage etc. Is this a typical example of the capacitor and thermistor failing in the control unit? First time this has ever happened. I don't have time to get into myself now as I need to travel tomorrow for a week, but is this the issue and if so, will a repair guy be willing to repair, or just want to replace the unit completely? I need to get it looked at before I end up with a no chlorine condition and all the problems that will bring to me.
 
  #132  
Old 06-02-12, 10:57 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 1
Green Power & Generating Lights not on

I appear to have a similiar situation where both of these lights come on when I first turn the pump on but they go off quickly and I hear a clicking sound. The display is showing the correct salt level and I can cycle through all of the display readings. When I look at the black current limiter everyone on here talks about, I do not see any kind of burnt or broken solder. Any other suggestions? Could it be just the fuse?
 
  #133  
Old 06-02-12, 01:18 PM
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Just opened my control panel and found some dark marks on the board behind the varistor. This is the quarter shaped part at the top right of the board. there is also a picture of it earlier on in this thread. I also saw a long crack line in it, and some black material came off it when I moved it. I would normally order the part and solder it in myself but I don't have time at the moment as I need to travel tomorrow. I just tossed in some chlorine pucks into the skimmers to keep away algae for now. More than likely the repair guy will want to install a complete new board and will justify that based I am sure on liability concerns, so I expect this will end up costing me $300 when it is done compared to $3.00 and 30 minutes of time. Have a look at yours and then you can decide if it looks like mine and what others have described as to whether you want to order one and install/solder it or if not, end up replacing the entire board. All the information you need is in the threads below it seems. I guess over time the head buildup deteriorates the material used in this part.
 
  #134  
Old 06-04-12, 06:27 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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Waiting to here for Dan-0

I had the same problem as others with the current limiter inrush. I ordered all three parts Dan-O mentioned in his last thread. I replaced SL32 2R025 and everything worked like a charm - but for only three days. Yesterday I replaced it again and will wait to see if the same thing happens. Dan-O - the part number UVZ1V153MRD is not the same size as the one currently on my board. Did you find this to be true for you as well?

I have found everyone's post helpful in trying to fix this problem myself. Thanks!
 
  #135  
Old 06-07-12, 01:05 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 1
Salt level shows "hot"

We were having the same issues as most everyone else and ordered the resistor (black key looking part). Had a friend install it and everything worked great - thanks so much for this info. Went to check the salt level today and it says "hot" instead of a number. I have searched and can't find information on what to do in this case. Is there some other part we need to replace in addition to the resistor? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Ken Crawford
 
  #136  
Old 06-09-12, 08:58 AM
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 1
No lights no readings on unit

My unit has zero power. I have checked incomming power and that is good. I took off the boards and see no burn marks and it all looks good. Any ideas. I am thinking the large black box upper left but don't know what output power from it should read.

Oh we had a lightning strike that blew the pump motor.
 
  #137  
Old 06-10-12, 07:04 AM
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Posts: 2
Aqua rite

I have a problem with with my aqua rite I changed the black coin shaped risiter but now all my lights are red except for the power one which is green. The chlorine generator will not produce anything. I have just changed my cell and thought that might be the problem help...
 
  #138  
Old 06-11-12, 06:41 PM
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Red lights all on

I have replaced the thermistor and it seemed to be working fine that morning but when I came home that afternoon I noticed that all 3 red lights were on and the last amber light was on. The unit was not producing chlorine anymore because the led screen has a PCB error code on it. If I turn the unit off the lights stay on. Does anyone know what I can do to fix this problem?. Thanks
 
  #139  
Old 06-27-12, 07:18 AM
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dixon422 is daman

Thank you dixon422!

My 12 year old Hayward Aqua Rite controller began exhibiting the exact same symptoms that dixon422 described in his post that started this thread. The green power and generating lights were on for a few seconds and then both turned off and the system was not generating chlorine. I also noticed that the voltage would climb right before the lights came on, and then the voltage would rapidly drop and the lights would turn off. The voltage would slowly climb again, the lights would come on for a few seconds, then the voltage would rapidly drop and the cycle would begin again.

I purchased the CURRENT LIMITER INRUSH 2 OHM 25A HTSUS from Digi-Key ($2.69 plus shipping and sales tax) and replaced this part on the controller board. The most difficult part of the process for me was removing the old Current Limiter from the board. It was especially difficult on the side that appeared to have the heat damage since the lead into the board was solidly fused. It tool many passes with the desoldering braid and some working at it to get it to come loose without damaging the board. Once removed, it was pretty easy to solder in the new part and re-install the board.

Once re-installed, everything fired back up fine and the system is generating salt again. Thanks again dixon422. You definitely saved me hundreds!
 
  #140  
Old 06-30-12, 01:28 PM
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If that is the capacitor part number, it is the wrong type of cap. It works, but I should have bought a "snap-in" model, instead of the axial leaded. Capcitance and voltage are the same, unit is working great, but the caps are too big for the housing and I can't get the face plate back on. Lived & learn, I guess. If your thermistor ( the inrush current limiting device) goes out again, think about replacing the two big capacitor cans that are in line with the thermistor. Just get the right one, if you want/need the faceplate. I just left mine off. Good luck!
 
  #141  
Old 07-10-12, 02:32 PM
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It worked for me too

I had the usual symptons described in this thread. power light and chlorine generating light onon for 10 seconds then no lights no generating.
My board did not show signs of burning and the SL32 was not crumbling although it did have a faint vertical crack down the middle. I ordered the parts from Newark and a soldering iron , mistakenly one with a chisel tip. desoldering the v150LA2p was a bear. I am a hamfisted solderer. I made a mess of the PC board. One thing I learned was to trim the leads after they parts were soldered in.Fortunately I had extras.

Goldline Tech support had told me that it was either my pcb or my transformer and kind of suggested I try the transformer first since it was cheaper. I am so glad I found this thread and appreciate all the good advice. I reinstalled the board and it is working perfectly so far, bad soldering job not withstanding.
 
  #142  
Old 07-15-12, 10:33 AM
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old circuit board

I bought a new board a few years back and found out that i could have saved a lot of money by just replacing the thermister. i would like to fix the old board 2002 by replacing the thermister and varistor. my question is where does the off board fuse get connected
 
  #143  
Old 07-18-12, 09:49 AM
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Update

Just an update on my experience with replacing the CURRENT LIMITER INRUSH 2 OHM 25A HTSUS on my circuit board.

The part burned out again after about 5 days of operation. Sometimes, it appears that whatever caused the part to burn out in the first place is still a problem even after you replace the thermistor (a
s I believe someone else pointed out earlier).

I bit the bullet and replaced the entire board ($222.99 from PoolSupplyWorld) about a week ago. So far so good.
 
  #144  
Old 08-03-12, 08:03 PM
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SwimPure Salt Chlorinator AS32 2R025

Many thanks for this forum and thread. My 2 year old SwimPure chlorinator display lights started turning off intermittently and finally went out altogether. The LCD display still worked properly. After reading this forum thead and noting that my current limiter was an AS32 2R025, I ordered a replacement from Digi-Key with a part number of 570-1105-ND and a cost of $11.81 including first class shipping.

After disconnecting the red and black wires at the upper right, clipping the the zip tie on the wires on the left, and unplugging the two bottom connectors to the cell, it was easy to remove the two bottom screws holding the circuit board in place and slide it up and out (white plastic mounting pins can stay attached to the board). The board can then be tilted forward to access the back where the pins are soldered.

My usual soldering iron was not powerful enough to melt the large solder pads and thick leads, so I used my old soldering gun for the job. I had to use copper braid to remove some solder and open up the circuit board holes for the new part. It was a tight fit. I reused the cylindrical lead spacers from the old part.

So far, it works fine.
 
  #145  
Old 08-04-12, 04:15 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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Thanks, I am hopeful...

Hey guys. I just found this thread b/c of my Aquarite issues, which resemble most of what is reported here, but without any burned or cracked parts on the board. I saw a couple of people replace the CURRENT LIMITER INRUSH 2 OHM 25A, so I took the leap. In fact, I got 3 just in case... I will re-post when they arrive/ Thanks
 
  #146  
Old 08-11-12, 08:36 AM
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Pcb error

I have the aqua rite with a T-15 cell. Every 4 or 5 days I get a PCB error that trips four lights, low salt, high salt, check cell and not generating. I reset the breaker to clear the error and start the chlorinator switch from off to auto, then wait till generating press 5 times to get instant salinity then auto to super and back to auto to lock in. The unit works fine for a few days then back to a PCB error with the same problems. Any ideas? I have changed out the varister already.
Thanks in advance.
 
  #147  
Old 08-12-12, 08:25 AM
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Since I was able to learn alot on this web site, I chose to contribute myself with one bit of critical information. If your bridge rectifiers are bad, they sell at pool web sites for $30 or more. You can get them at Digikey or Mouser. Their part number is GPC3504 and they are about $3.
 

Last edited by p25416; 08-12-12 at 09:20 AM.
  #148  
Old 08-14-12, 11:21 AM
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Thanks!!

THANKS to everyone for posting the info on how to replace the "little black round part" which says SL32 2R025 on the back and is an Inrush Current Limiter.
My Aqua Rite SWG was not generating chlorine.
The Power and Generating lights would not stay on.
If you turned it to Auto, the No Flow light would flash for about 45 seconds, then the Power and Generating green lights came on for about 15 seconds and went off.
My pool guy here in Richmond, VA, who is an authorized Aqua Rite service man, said the whole circuit board needed to be replaced for $350. I found one new on Amazon for about $175, so I was going to order it.
BUT then I found out here in this forum that this little black part is sort of like a fuse.
It was tough to see it when the board was mounted, but when I took the board off, I could see the black burn marks around it.
I ordered the 570-1062-ND part from Digi-Key.com, as recommended here. $2.69, plus about $4.50 to ship it priority mail.
I had a friend help me remove the old one and solder this new one in. Yep, about 15 minutes.
And sure enough, it WORKS.
So if you're having this same problem with your board, try the $2.69 part before investing in a new circuit board.
THANKS AGAIN so much everyone.
 
  #149  
Old 09-06-12, 01:48 PM
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Check Salt, Inspect Cell Flashing

Hi,

I, like so many of you, had no lights showing on my AquaRite. I replaced the SL 32 2R025 and power has returned. Thanks to all.

However, even though the Power and Generating lights are on, the Check Salt and Inspect Cell lights are flashing. I have checked salt levels with my pool dealer and salt levels are fine. I have removed and cleaned the cell with a mild acid bath.

When I move the Main Switch to OFF and then to AUTO, just the Power and Generating lights appear. After a few minutes (and clicking sounds) the Check Salt and Inspect Cell lights begin flashing.

Is there something else I need to change on the board? The unit is only two years old - a T-15 with a small (14000 gal) pool.

Any suggestions?
 
  #150  
Old 09-15-12, 03:10 PM
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Thumbs up Thank you!!

I joined this forum just to say THANKS to dixon422 and the others who gave advice on how to replace the current limiter (or whatever the technical name is). I decided to do a search about my salt generator not showing power or generating lights before calling the pool repair guy, and boy am I glad I did! I purchased 2 of the parts (SL32 2R025), just to be on the safe side. With shipping it was $18.00. I can't even imagine what the pool guy would have charged me but I know it would have been several hundred. My son came over today to unsolder the old part and solder the new one on. When I turned the breaker back on and saw those green lights I was so happy! It's great when other people share their knowledge and experiences. Thanks again!
 
  #151  
Old 09-26-12, 06:59 PM
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Terry,
Is your generator working? Is it making clorine? If not, the first thing i would try is to reseat the plug from the cell generator into the board you removed. If it is, occasionally you have to "reset" the inspect cell flashing light. i accomplish that by holding down the round button for a few seconds. Hope this helps.

Also I performed the "fix" on my aqua-rite. Bought the parts on ebay for $8. works perfectly!
 
  #152  
Old 10-08-12, 06:34 PM
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Hi,
I have just recently become a member. I have a problem with my Aquarite and was hoping someone could help me out. The problem I have is that when the pool turns on (mechanical timer) the Aquarite does not come on. I have to turn the pool on and off manually several times before it comes on. After it comes on, it works fine. I was looking at the threads here, and I don't think it is the ICL. I was thinking it could either be the Transformer, or the relays on the board. Any suggestions?
 
  #153  
Old 10-27-12, 03:29 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: usa
Posts: 1
New owner of pool with question

We bought a home in Dunnellon, Fla. with a salt water pool. The home was inspected...the pool itself was also but not the "workings of the pool". Guess that was a mistake since the salt chlorinator was not working and pool water turned green. We live out of state and will not be there to see what is going on until 3 wks. from now. The pool company said I needed a hayward glx pcb rite main pcb board for the aqr goldline aqua rite salt chlorine generator. I bought it online and had it shipped to pool company and they charged $80...$55 to install and 25 for 5 bags of salt. Seemed reasonable. Now...they say it isn't doing the job...isn't making the necessary chlorine and that I need to go with a company in Tampa that does rebuilt "generators" ...or buy a new Haward generator. I see online the hayward aqua rite in ground chlorine generator for 40000 gallons is $862. Does thhis mean I wasted over $200 (paid $190 for new board plus the installation) or is the board still necessary?? I am confused and since I don't even know the serial number of what I have got...I have to go along with what the pool company is telling me. Any advice??
 
  #154  
Old 01-03-13, 12:30 PM
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Location: Canada
Posts: 4
Aqua Rite settings.

Seems that many people are having difficulties with their salt readings and although cleaning the salt cell is always a good idea imho, it isn't actually the reason you may be having false readings. The aqua-rite controls take the average readings of the last 10 times your unit generated chlorine. You will note these readings when you push the diagnostic button 5 times , I believe it is, and then set the unit to super chlorinate. Numbers will appear after the unit goes through it's self diagnostics, this is where you will see the red "no flow" light blinking, and then the top three green lights will come on. Once these readings reach a steady state, where they are no longer changing, this is the "immediate" salt reading. Now if this number is close to what you feel the actual reading should be then you can set this as the "present" reading. Here is how. First off let me explain a bit about the controls. When you flick the switch from the "auto" position to the "super chlorinate" position and then immediately back down to the "auto" position, this is like hitting "enter" on you keyboard for you computer. So now, click the switch to "off", wait for a few seconds, then flick it up to "auto" listen carefully for the clicking sound, this may take up to 30 seconds, immediately click the small diagnostic button 5 times to get to the "present" salt readings, now flick the switch up to "super chlorinate", wait for the readings to stop changing and immediately flick the switch back to the "auto" position. Now the main salt reading will be the same as your "present" salt reading and will have cleared the "memory" state so that the "average" reading will begin again. Now if some are using a secondary controller to activate the Aqua-rite generator, like a Cat 2000, you will have to make sure the control is set to manual and it is calling for "feed" in order to get the Aqua-rite to "generate". Hope this helps.
 
  #155  
Old 01-03-13, 12:41 PM
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a Cell can fail but that can take a long long time. Best practice is to clean the cell(pool companies have cell cleaner or you can use a diluted muriatic acid bath), removing any scale that you can see, be gentle, then reinstall and let the unit go through it's self diagnostics to see if it reads the cell. Now the PCB is a printed circuit board failure. Did that show on the diagnostics? if anything at all is happening then they lied to you as a PCB failure will not allow anything to happen as the board runs the entire show. What readings are you getting when pressing the diagnostic button sequentially? Do you note an actual power reading? Is it showing generating? Seems to me you have a pool company that doesn't quite understand how the generator works. If salt reading are good, say around 3500-4000 and the % dial is turned up to 100 and there is a green "generating" lite, then it may just be that it's taking time generating enough chlorine to fight your obvious pool contamination as the available chlorine is being changed to chlorimine as noted by any strong smell of chlorine, as it fights the cotamination. Turn your generator on to "super chlorinate" for 24 hours. You can't simply turn things on and expect instant results in a large pool. Yes in say a 400 gallon hot tub you may notice immediate changes, but in a 40,000 gallon pool, which I suspect is incorrect as that's huge, it can take 2-3 days to even begin to get proper readings. Do not over react ever with a pool that size. Slow and gentle changes are always best and will take time to show.
 
  #156  
Old 01-03-13, 12:45 PM
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Hey mckeag, my generator is doing exactly the same thing. Seems that although the thermister has not failed completely it may be slowly breaking down and malfunctioning. I have to wait until next week to talk to Haywards tech, seems he's on holidays. So I'll post more and let you know what I find out.
 
  #157  
Old 01-11-13, 12:55 PM
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Cool Update

That's exactly what was wrong. The ICL or Inrush Current Limiter was failing. Put in a new one and now I'm G2G. Had them shipped to Canada and 2 + Shipping cost me just under $30. Now for mine the number is AS32 2R025 . That's a bit different than some of you. Digi-key part number is 570-1105-ND. Board is back in service and functioning perfectly.
 
  #158  
Old 02-22-13, 07:02 PM
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What does it mean when cold is in display?
 
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