Hayward H100ID not ignighting...NO SPARK

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  #1  
Old 05-22-12, 12:09 PM
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Hayward H100ID not ignighting...NO SPARK

Hi,

I was reading the thread "Hayward H100ID, ignites, but cools quickly"...

(http://www.doityourself.com/forum/po...s-quickly.html)

...but wasn't able to track down my problem.

After reading the other thread I checked off the following:

1) Control Module looked ok...no broken solder points
2) Air pressure Switch tube was fine
3) Ground was fine
4) Ignighter NOT corroded (replaced in 2011)
5) Water pressure & gas are fine

The problem is that when turned on to heat I'm not getting any kind of spark. Blower works...no spark.

I've read all kinds of posts re: "Jumping" the various switches but unfortunately there are know step by step DIY follow-up posts as to how a "total voltage checking newbie" can accomplish this.

...any help would be appreciated b4 I just order a $180 control module & hope that solves the problem.

Cheers,

Jeff
 
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  #2  
Old 05-22-12, 04:46 PM
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did you check to see if there is power at the ignitor? When working with door open you need to hold button or bypass during diagnosis. Also check vacuum switches make sure they open to let the board know fan is on.
 
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Old 05-30-12, 12:28 PM
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Hi Todrut,

Thanks for the reply.

"did you check to see if there is power at the ignitor?"

--there is no spark, don't think the "new" control board is getting any juice.


"When working with door open you need to hold button or bypass during diagnosis."

--During all of the diagnosing the door button has been pushed in so that the blower operates

"Also check vacuum switches make sure they open to let the board know fan is on."

--Don't know how to do that, although an HVAC tech was out & jumped all the pressure switches and the "old" board was still not getting juice. She recommended we get a new Control Board (Ignition Module). Also the Temperature Limit Switches were both popped so we've replace them with both as well.

Put all the new parts in today....and still have no joy (spark) from the new Control Board (Ignition Module).

...any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Jeff
 
  #4  
Old 05-30-12, 01:02 PM
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not sure I'm understanding, is there voltage to the ignitor when cycling ? need to test from wires. what do you mean board not getting juice???
 
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Old 05-31-12, 12:47 PM
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Thanks for getting back to me.

Sorry if I wasn't clear before, here's what's (not) going on.

- Went to open the pool last week, checked gas supply OK, plugged in Hayward H100ID1& turned up heater dial...blower worked but no ignition.

- Looked at ignitor, no corrosion, connections all good & spacing of the ignitor points were fine.

- Visually checked all connections for loose/broken wires…all good.

- Took off Control Module to look for bad solder points/charing, etc. All good.

- HVAC tech took a look, noticed that both the High Limits (Hayward IDXHLK1930 Hi Limits) were popped.

- So she jumped the Water Pressure switch, Air Pressure Switch and Hi Limits individually first then all at once and still no power from Control Module (Hayward IDXMOD1930) to ignitor…no spark. She suggested that we have a bad Control Module and need a new one.

- Replaced both High Limits (Hayward IDXHLK1930 Hi Limits) and Control Module (Hayward IDXMOD1930). Plugged everything in…still no power from new Control Module to ignitor. Blower work as before...no spark from ignitor.

- Then tested the Air Pressure Switches again, we jumped the Air Pressure Switch (Hayward IDXAPS1930) and the Ignitor sparked for the first time! Gas valve opened, heater lit….then gas shut off after about 5 seconds. So we thought it was now the Air Pressure Switch (Hayward IDXAPS1930).

- A Hayward Authorized pool tech supplied us with a working Air Pressure Switch that he said would work with our model. The APS he supplied us with is a (Hayward IDXLVPS1930).

- Hooked it up last night…and still no joy. Blower motor worked…but again no power from Control Module to Ignitor…again, no spark from ignitor.

I have tried to schedule a visit from 4 different Pool Heater techs and (tis the season) …they are all too busy to come out anytime soon.

…I am now at a complete loss as to what the problem might be, any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
  #6  
Old 06-01-12, 07:39 AM
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sounds like it is the vacuum switch which tells the heater the fan is on. Could be switch or something blocking tube.
Just to be sure, you are testing current to the ignitor during the cycle? Need to watch meter just after fan comes on it sends current to ignitor.
 
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Old 06-01-12, 11:09 AM
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Found the problem...

Just look at the pics...they tell the sad story

Took the Combustion Blower off and found the problem.





Any ideas where I could source a new Blower Wheel? I don't need to replace the WHOLE Combustion Blower as the motor still works fine. The BLOWER WHEEL is 1 1/4" tall x 4 1/2 diameter. Any suggestions, as always would be appreciated. (UPDATE: scratch that...what remains of the fan is WAAAY to rusted to the bore and is un-removeable...so will source a used Blower Motor)

...Word to fellow DIY'er...learn from our diagnosis mistakes...check the Blower first before you order new control modules...Air Pressure Switches...etc.

Also, for those who also have a Hayward H100ID1 I discovered online that the replacement part has been updated.

----- IDXBWR1930 HAS BEEN REPLACED BY IDXBWR1931 - which was replaced by gas type specific blowers: -----

IDXBWR1933 for Propane Heaters
IDXBWR1934 for Natural Gas Heaters



Thanks for all your help Todrut!

Cheers,

Jeff
 
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Last edited by todrut; 06-01-12 at 03:08 PM.
  #8  
Old 06-01-12, 03:10 PM
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Ouch!!! Looks like chemicals were out of balance, make sure to clean that heat exchanger good, but be careful, it might be ready to start leaking.
 
  #9  
Old 06-01-12, 06:05 PM
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Cool Finally working!

New blower is in...all good now!

Old blower had really cra##y gasket. New motor has a better plenum & newer air pressure switch. Tested old APS & old control module w/new blower...both old parts work fine

...Soooooo, if anyone needs a Hayward H100ID1 Control Module (Hayward IDXMOD1930) and Air Pressure Switch (Hayward IDXAPS1930) ...I've got em' to $ell. ; )

Here's what the new & old parts look like.

...Happy Haywarding gang!

 
  #10  
Old 06-03-12, 06:47 PM
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H100 Blower

I think I'm having a similar problem with my H100. When I turn the thermostat on, everything appears to get juice, including the black and red wires to the blower motor (tested using a voltage tester), and I hear a humming noise from the motor, but it isn't spinning. Looking to me like the motor may be shot. From looking though the combustion sir outlet it looks like my fan is in decent shape (not rusted), but the motor wont turn.

Is it difficult to remove/replace the blower assembly? I unscrewed the screws holding it down but didn't pull it off completely. Once those screws are off should the assembly just pull right off?

Jeff, do you have pics of the top of your assembly? I'm trying to figure out if mine is a model 1932, 1934 or 1935. Also, where di you end up ordering the new blower from?

Thanks for any help!

Josh
 
  #11  
Old 06-03-12, 08:07 PM
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sounds like you have a nest in there preventing fan from spinning. Try to spin fan to see if it spins freely. you can pull it off if you have screws out.
 
  #12  
Old 06-03-12, 09:29 PM
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Hi Josh,

"Is it difficult to remove/replace the blower assembly? I unscrewed the screws holding it down but didn't pull it off completely. Once those screws are off should the assembly just pull right off?"

Yup...super easy! If you have the screws off already all ya need to do is lift.

Per my post on 06-01-12 @ 1:09PM, I discovered the following...

----- IDXBWR1930 HAS BEEN REPLACED BY IDXBWR1931 - which was replaced by gas type specific blowers: -----

IDXBWR1933 for Propane Heaters
IDXBWR1934 or
IDXBWR1935 for Natural Gas Heaters


The lowest price I found online was $160 . Below is the link to our specific blower (...notice that the kit also comes with a new Air Pressure Switch)




Here's a nice online diagram of our unit from [URL="http://www.parts4heating.com/Pool-Heaters-Hayward-H-Series-Above-Ground-ABG1001-s/1008.htm"



(It turns out that the Hayward ABG1001 uses the same/compatible blower as the Hayward H100ID1 & H100IDP1.)

page linked above, they want $299 for a new one. After searching online the range in price is $140 to $300+!

TIP!...I'd call around to some Pool Service Pro's in your area and see if they have one in their garage/truck to sell ya! ...that's what I did & $aved a bunch!

It also looks like has one for $140 (don't know if this one would've worked for us, though it looks identical from the image)...



...and has some from $180 to $320.




Hope this helps, good luck!

Cheers,

Jeff
 

Last edited by todrut; 06-04-12 at 06:37 AM.
  #13  
Old 06-08-12, 07:51 PM
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I have no spark either. The blower comes on and air is exhausting so I don't think I have Jeff's problem. I took out the gas valve and cleaned the orifices and the burners. I hear clicking after the blower comes on. I took out the ignitor to look at it while the clicking was going on but there was no spark. I bought a new ignitor and cable on Amazon for $43 but still no spark. I think the clicking means I have power to the control module. Do I need a new control module?
 
  #14  
Old 06-09-12, 04:54 AM
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Update

Just a quick update to my post, the heater is working now. Once I took the blower assembly off, the motor seemed to be stuck and I gave it a good spin by hand and it broke loose. I then oiled the bearings as best I could and reinstalled and connected it and it worked. It makes a high pitched squealing noise now so I'm thinking the bearings are close to their end. I'm thinking it may not be long before I need to replace the fan motor.

Thanks for everyone's input!
 
  #15  
Old 06-09-12, 06:07 AM
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Sounds familiar

Jeff,
I also have a H110Id1 heater that will not ignite. I have troubleshot and have power through all switches but not from the module to the gas valves. I jumped over the module and the valve opened and heater ignited. The problem must be in the module, although it looks ok and nothing is burned. I would rather replace the board than trying to find the faulty component. How much do you want for your module? John
 
  #16  
Old 06-09-12, 06:11 AM
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read above about trouble shooting the different possibilities. I would try them before buying anything.
 
  #17  
Old 06-09-12, 11:34 AM
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Does the clicking mean there is voltage to the module? If yes, and thereis no spark does that mean the control module is bad?
 
  #18  
Old 06-09-12, 02:38 PM
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Water leak causing condensation on igniter rods

My Hayward H100ID pool heater was working fine for the month of May but now it's just passing cool water. After reading this thread, I checked a few things that were suggested but then I noticed condensation on the 2 igniter rods and that water was dripping from the housing underneath the blower fan just behind the igniter. When i shine my flashlight in the tiny igniter hole, I can also see condensation. I can smell gas when the heater is running and I can hear some clicking. I cannot find the source of the leak but I'm sure that it has something to do with the igniter not lighting up because of the condensation. When i inserted the igniter for 1 minute and pull it out, I can already see the condensation forming on the igniter. My pool heater is about 5 years old so I'm thinking of buying the same model (if I can find one) so that I can use the broken one for parts. Has anyone seen this water leak? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
  #19  
Old 06-09-12, 02:40 PM
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it is probably your heat exchanger, would need to take apart some to find it for sure
 
  #20  
Old 06-09-12, 03:20 PM
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Thanks for your quick response! The heat exchanger is just below the blower fan, right? this leak looks like it coming from below heat exchange. I had the blower fan out and the heat exchange area looks dry. What's under the heat exchange? I didn't take it out yet. Also, is it easy to remove the heat exchange?

Thanks
 
  #21  
Old 06-10-12, 08:29 AM
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if you take it out you might not see the leak, it needs to be running water through to find leak usually. yes it is below fan, fan draws air through it. It is hard to but you just need to look and feel around romoving what you can to make it easier.
 
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