Make an indoor hot tub cover

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  #1  
Old 05-24-13, 12:04 PM
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Question Make an indoor hot tub cover

Have a older Cal spa [ don't buy one] 8x8 Hot tub in an enclosed Patio. The old cover is shot and very heavy for one person to move, even though it is cut in 2 4' sections. I want to make a cover out of 2" foam board. No plywood or vinyl covering. No children in the house so falling in is no problem.
What is the best type of foam to use? Does it have to be wrapped in Plastic?
Note Can not use a cover lifter as there is NOT enough ceiling clearence.
There is just 1 foot of room on two sides. Any Ideas please
 
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  #2  
Old 05-24-13, 03:42 PM
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Rather than recreate the animal you need a set of helping hands for that heavy cover. Look into kayak or canoe lifts for garages. If you can find something with pulley's you can effectively scale down the effort needed to lift the cover off. maybe then mount everything to some rolling tracks hanging from the ceiling. Just an idea....
 
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Old 05-26-13, 04:36 AM
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Get a cover lift! There are many brands and styles to choose from. Most are pretty inexpensive. I have a spring loaded one for mine that makes it easy to remove.

Over time covers can become water logged and get heavier. I replace ours about every 8-10 years. They cost about $300 and up depending on the options you want.

If you want to do your foam board idea I'd use 2" thick rigid foam board.
 
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Old 05-26-13, 04:59 AM
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You have a hot tub in an enclosed room? Is it attached to your house? How is the moisture vented?? 2" foam board Dane mentioned cut in 2'+- pieces with Tyvek tape on the seams opposite each other. It will accordian for a good off tub storage.
 
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Old 05-26-13, 07:15 AM
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Note Can not use a cover lifter as there is NOT enough ceiling clearence.
Assume that means looking for creative ideas.

Larry, how will the constant moisture work on the ability for the tape to keep its holding power? However, using that same theme of accordian style, he could split the two halves one more time to make 4 sections. Lift at the two new sections to allow clearance from the ceiling to swing the cover out of the way. Use stainless hinges and screws to prevent rust.
 
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Old 05-26-13, 08:29 AM
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I have tried to remove Tyvek tape off wet tyvek before, and it is a bear to get off. Continuing with your idea, you could make 4 separate panels and cut them with ship laps so they nest on each other and just remove them individually. No hardware, no fuss, no muss, and you have it basically "covered". I still worry about this enclosed atmosphere and mold/mildew, etc.
 
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Old 05-27-13, 06:19 AM
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If the foam isn't completely sealed in plastic (polyethylene) it will very quickly absorb moisture and evaporation, becoming yet again, 200 pounds.
 
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Old 05-27-13, 08:47 AM
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If you have enough ceiling height to fold your cover in half there are many cover lifts that will work. Mine tips and slides the cover off the end just like shown in your picture. It has springs on the sides of the spa to help offset the weight of the cover so it's very easy to lift back up onto the spa.

I used blue rigid foam board for a spa cover for several years. It is a closed cell foam and does not absorb moisture. I mated the tongue and groove in the center and did not use tape. It worked surprisingly well.
 
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Old 05-27-13, 11:08 AM
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First Thanks to all.
Dane So closed cell foam, does not have to be sealed in Plastic [Blue board]
Found 2" at HD a yellow color foam with plastic on one side $40. each
Lowes 2" 4x8 white foam, silver on 1 side a clear plastic on the other. $24. each
Any other recos? Have access to Alied and All-Side building supply.
What would you ask them for?? Figure what ever I use I could seal the end grains with tyvek tape.

Chandler
I still worry about this enclosed atmosphere and mold/mildew, etc.
Thanks for the consern. The room is 18x20 attached to the back of the house. Walls are 5/8s T-11 sealed and stained. Ceiling is Vinyl soffett. All exposed wood, window and door trim is capped in PVC. Widows are custom made replacements 7/8s glass.
Room is about 10 years old. No moisture or mold problems
Thanks again all
 
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Old 05-27-13, 01:03 PM
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I used the blue brand foam because that was easily available but there are other brands. I used it for the spa cover for a couple years. Stored it in my warehouse for a couple more and then it found use in another project. The stuff does not die. There are many different types of insulating foam so make sure you choose the correct type. Some are open celled and the Styrofoam type can hold water between the beads.

I have had my spas inside for the past 20 years and a good cover addresses most of the moisture issues. Even in the hot tub room there is no chemical or "pool" smell when the cover is closed and evaporation with the cover closed is about one pint per week. We use the spa about once a week for 1 1/2 - 2 hour and the humidity as expected does rise considerably and how we deal with it varies by season. The jets are usually run with the cover closed to disperse chemicals and are rarely used when the cover is open. Running the jets with air (bubbles) on and the cover open is only done for the rare party and can easily put a gallon of water into the air every hour.

The room has two windows and it's own 7k btu AC and a 36" door to the rest of the house. The ceiling is vinyl T&G siding and the walls are traditional gypsum (sheet rock) & paint. 12+ years and still no moisture or mildew issues so I think much is how you operate the room.

In winter we have the door to the house open when using the hot tub and it is left open when we are finished. This lets the humidity into the house where it's welcomed. In the spring and fall the door to the house is closed when we use the spa and the windows are open. Once we are done with the spa the windows are closed and the door to the house opened. In summer we close the room off and turn on the AC which runs while we are in the spa. When we are finished the door to the house is opened and the AC is run for an hour our two to help dry out the room.
 
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Old 09-30-13, 06:42 AM
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never mind....message deleted
 
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