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Chlorine will not increase in my Swimming Pool

Chlorine will not increase in my Swimming Pool

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  #1  
Old 06-05-13, 07:15 AM
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Chlorine will not increase in my Swimming Pool

GM to you all!

Cannot get the Chlorine level in my pool to increase at all. My PH level is very low along with a low Stabilizer reading. Does anyone know if this could be the reason my Chlorine level is not increasing. I keep pumping 3 inch tabs into the Chlorinator.

Thanks -
 
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  #2  
Old 06-05-13, 07:41 AM
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Possibly your test kit cant read the chlorine levels and is bleaching out. What test method are you using?
 
  #3  
Old 06-05-13, 07:49 AM
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We are using AquaChek free chlorine strips -
 
  #4  
Old 06-05-13, 07:59 AM
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strips are not accurate. Drop based is best, and if you are checking shock levels only a powder based test will be able to read high chlorine levels.

You should use this test kit at a min for daily testing. Chlorine, ph, alk.


Welcome to Taylor Technologies

Use this for shock testing of high chlorine levels.

Welcome to Taylor Technologies
 
  #5  
Old 06-05-13, 09:40 AM
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Also - did you "shock" your pool when you opened it ? The pucks may not dissolve fast enough. (after verifying you are reading accurate)
 
  #6  
Old 06-05-13, 11:09 AM
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Why is this in Bricks, Asphalt, and Masonary? Moving to Pools.
 
  #7  
Old 06-05-13, 11:20 AM
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low stabilizer can cause the problem. Also there could be other reasons, is pool green or clear? what kind of chlorinator? proper size for pool?
 
  #8  
Old 06-05-13, 12:35 PM
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Inline Hayward chlorinbator - Keep putting in the large 3 inch tabs but when I use the test strips, the 0.5 low reading keeps showing up -
 
  #9  
Old 06-05-13, 01:53 PM
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water green? Need to balance stabilizer, without it the sun eats the chlorine out of pool
 
  #10  
Old 06-05-13, 04:34 PM
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We were using the Aquacheck strips too, which unfortunately led to a green pool. Dealing with a green pool is bad, but dealing with the sad faces on the kids are worse. Hopefully the problem will be sorted soon, but I won't be using the strips again.
 
  #11  
Old 06-05-13, 04:49 PM
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if pool is green, you need to double or sometimes triple the amount of shock. Tablets alone will never clear a pool. You must kill the green first. How many gallons? What size pool?
 
  #12  
Old 06-29-13, 04:52 PM
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This thread has morphed into my problem, as well: Test strips (which I now know are inaccurate, thank you) have, along with unusual spring rains & a few weeks of neglect, led to the dreaded "Green Pool". 3,860 gal. pool and 3 bags of shock over the last 5 days, the green is lighter in color, but still green. I have used far more than the indicated amount on the bag, test strips indicating high free chlorine levels over 10 ppm (off the color chart) after the first bag, (which had no effect on green until 3rd bag). I assume, with additional shock it will eventually clear up, but how long will I have to wait before chlorine levels are back down enough to resume operation?

BTW, the pH & Alkalinity levels have been fairly stable within accepted limits, except right after a bag of shock, when the pH goes high for 12/24 hrs. Of course, these indications according to AquaCheck strips, as well.
 
  #13  
Old 06-29-13, 05:00 PM
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A similar question: one of my kinfolks who have a much bigger pool (and fill it with well water) say to use Clorox, it's a lot cheaper, does the same thing.

I'm thinking that if that were the case, everybody would be doing this...
 
  #14  
Old 06-29-13, 06:50 PM
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a lot of people use bleach, but keep this in mind:
1 has a very high PH of around 12ppm
2 has only about 4% active chlorine
 
  #15  
Old 07-09-13, 09:25 AM
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When I've gotten green pool in the past, it has cleared a lot quicker by using algaecide then clarifier in accordance with instructions 24 hours apart. Then heavy filter and vacuum as you'll have a lot of dissolved solids still clouding the water. Also liquid shock a lot more effective and better at keeping pH and alkalinity stable and in the right direction. Use the chlorinator for sustainment of chlorine and stabilizer levels, not correction. Your local pool supply store should be the best source for the right concentration of liquid shock. Costs less than buying chlorox off the shelf as well as the powders.
 
  #16  
Old 07-09-13, 09:44 AM
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Liquid shock is bleach only at 10-12%.. Often it cost way more then buying .99 cent 6% bleach..Liquid shock is not more effective then bleach... Its the same thing... You just use less because its a higher percent...

Just do the math...

Algaecide is good. Polyquat 60 is the best but price per oz is very pricey too... If you use any other Algaecide that is not polyquat then you are wasting your money...

Here is the pool calculator for using bleach, backing soda, and borax... Dont need to worry about anything else on a liner pool...

Cement pools you need certain calcium levels so the water dont leach from the cement...

For each get you CYA level at 30 everyyear ... too high and higher levels of chlorine will need to be maintained...Too low and the sun will just eat the chlorine away...

The Pool Calculator


a lot of people use bleach, but keep this in mind:
1 has a very high PH of around 12ppm
2 has only about 4% active chlorine
Its a false PH... After adding bleach the PH may read high but it returns to normal in a short time..

Bleach comes in many strengths. Never saw 4% bleach...
 
  #17  
Old 07-10-13, 05:28 AM
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Are the tablets you are using-

chlorine tablets, or chlorinated stabilizer?

Cyanuric acid is stabilizer ("CYA")
Tri-chloro-... cyanuric acid (roughly three parts chlorine, one part stabilizer) is what most pool tablets are made of. That's (roughly by weight) 50% chlorine and 50% stabilizer.

Stabilizer extends the lifetime of chlorine (some say 2x or 3x) by limiting how "active" it is.
Good, all your chlorine won't burn off on a single sunny day, BUT only 1/2 or 1/3 of the chlorine is active at any one time. That makes it hard to catch up once the pool goes green.

While you put in 3 tablets, they're say, 1/2 chlorine by weight, and they're restricted by the stabilizer in the pool to 1/3 the effectiveness.
You're expecting to see 3 tablets worth of result, but you're only going to get a 1/2 tablet worth of result.
 
  #18  
Old 07-10-13, 06:15 AM
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Tri-chloro-... cyanuric acid (roughly three parts chlorine, one part stabilizer) is what most pool tablets are made of. That's (roughly by weight) 50% chlorine and 50% stabilizer.
Thats right Hal... And the more you use these pucks the more stabilizer you get...Stabilizer or CYA never leaves the pool once in it. The ideal CYA is 30.... Using the pucks I have seen pools up to 100 and higher.

What happens when the CYA gets high is that you need to use more chlorine to get the same effects of lower CYA. Thats why 30 is a good # in that its a common ground... The sun will not burn off the chlorine and you do not need to keep high levels...

Here is the CYA chart.. I keep mine at 30... I keep a 2-4ppm chlorine level and you see shock level is 12ppm..

Now say someone was using pucks and had a 100 for CYA... Those people always have green pools and they cant understand why... They say they are adding clorine... But look at the chart.. They need to keep a 7-12 ppm chlorine level... Good lord that will be expensive if you have a 30k gallon pool..... Even using bleach....

And look at the shock level at 100 PPM.... I would not want that.

The only way to get rid of CYA is to drain some water and fill.

 
  #19  
Old 07-10-13, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by maclorjoe
My PH level is very low along with a low Stabilizer reading.
Chlorine cleans the pool by oxidizing (burning) algae (fuel)
High pH is "oxidizing". Low pH is "reducing"
Your low pH means the water if crowded with lots of H+ ions which inhibit oxidation.
Think of it as trying to light a wet match.
First, you have to drive off the H+ ions, almost like drying off firewood.

Originally Posted by maclorjoe
Does anyone know if this could be the reason my Chlorine level is not increasing.
Could be. At high pH (acidic environment) there are lots of free H+ ions, which block chlorine- ions from registering on the pool test.

Originally Posted by maclorjoe
I keep pumping 3 inch tabs into the Chlorinator.
As above, tablets are generally (by weight) 1/2 chlorine and 1/2 chlorine inhibitor.
That's like trying to light a wet 2x4 with a match.


This year, I took a pool from uncovered (basically pond) to crystal clear with only chlorine tabs.

What I found is that it is practical, but it is REALLY important to remove as much algae as possible via filtering or vacuuming, BEFORE adding chlorine.

Try and filter, or vacuum out, as much algae as you can during the day.
THEN chlorinate in the evening.
Turn off the circulation overnight to let as much settle out as possible.
Vacuum first thing in the morning, before stirring up the waters.
 

Last edited by Hal_S; 07-10-13 at 10:20 AM.
  #20  
Old 07-23-13, 08:09 PM
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I just had to laugh at rsripe's comment. Every year, more people are finding out about the BBB method of pool care. Heck, I was at Walmart and saw big bags of A&H Baking soda in the pool section. I agree that test strips suck. Run them next to a dropper kit and you'll see. (Part of the reason is because there's not much free chlorine at the top several inches of your pool, which is where the strips are used.)

I've purchased no pool store chems this year. Hell, last year, the pool store had me adding Low N Slo (Dry acid) & Ph Up on the same day!
 
  #21  
Old 05-28-14, 06:19 AM
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I wanted to share what I have done to beat the high cost of chemicals when your pools cyanuric acid levels are to high. This occurs after several years of using the chlorine pucks. The only way to effectively get rid of this problem is to change your pool water. Because the CYN is heavier then water it will accumulate at the bottom of the deep end. Turn off the circulation equipment and use a small pump that can be lowered into the deep end. These pumps cost about 100 dollars online. Pump fresh water into the shallow end with your garden hose and pump out the water at the deepest point. The little pumps run at approximately the same speed as the inbound line. Because your filter is shutoff you needn't worry about the water level getting to low and damaging your liner. Run this for several hours and see if your water level increases or decreases and make adjustments accordingly. I have found this process may take several days but will cost you less in water bills and chemical charges and reduces the amount of phosphates that all these chemicals induce to your pool. The pool stores do not like this because the make millions every year selling us chemicals that we could really get by with out. I have a 35K in ground vinyl pool. I change the water ever 3rd or 4th season and I use a lot less chemicals this way, This process will save you on all the other stuff they sell. Check your fresh water supply with a test kit and make sure what the levels are in your fresh water. Different areas of the country add chlorine and other chemicals. A couple of days of changing water will save you hundreds in chemical costs and can fix other problems like PH and chorine levels TDS and PHO. Good luck pool lovers!
 
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