The 2013 Hayward H100 thread

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  #41  
Old 07-09-13, 04:50 PM
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Ok.....there are two wires to the gas valve.....one is the neutral and may have several white wires connected to it and the other is violet which, I'm assuming, should be 120vac as soon as the control module gets powered and spark starts. If that voltage is there then the gas valve is bad. If that voltage is not there then the control module is bad.

This is assuming that all the terminals are clean and not corroded.
 
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  #42  
Old 07-09-13, 04:56 PM
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doesn't sound like gas valve is opening. The fan will stay on low till there is a flame and heat. nat or lp gas? if lp have you ran out of gas and refilled? need to check voltage at gas valve to make sure it is getting volts to open.
 
  #43  
Old 07-09-13, 05:19 PM
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I just did some quick tests but had to abort as a huge storm moved overhead! I pulled the purple and white wires from the gas valve - stuck the tester in them and turned it on. I got 120V.

I then plugged them back in and ran the heater and the valve opened, but only for a couple of seconds and closed before the ignitor started.

I tested at the control board and I was getting intermittent 120V - but I can't be sure if that is because I was pushing tester in far enough - lightning started at this point and I abandoned my quest.

So, sounds likes a control board?
 
  #44  
Old 07-09-13, 07:01 PM
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could be corrosion on wire leads? Could be board?
What should happen is igniter first then gas valve opens. Sounds fishy...
 
  #45  
Old 07-10-13, 04:25 PM
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I think the ignitor is definitely starting first - now that I have run it about 100 times while testing it.

I can get 120V on purple and white a very small amount of times. This is only when I hear the relay on the board trigger. Most of the time I get ignitor, no click from the relay, and no 120V on purple.

I checked the wire connections to the control board - they don't look corroded at all. I slid the connector on and off to scrape down the contacts to make a surer connection.

I am thinking the control board is bad?
 
  #46  
Old 07-10-13, 06:41 PM
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It sounds like it, but first make sure your door switch is good and periodically working.
 
  #47  
Old 07-15-13, 12:45 PM
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The door switch appears to be fine. If I am not mistaken - if the door switch had failed then the blower wouldn't even start? I ordered a new control module so I am hoping this will sort this out. Keeping my fingers crossed.

BTW - I have found the best pricing for parts - free shipping and if you google there are a number of coupons out there for them that work.
 
  #48  
Old 07-16-13, 05:08 PM
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So the heater repair guy showed up today without warning! He acknowledged that he hadn't been around in "a while", didn't really give a good explanation as to why he hadn't returned any phone calls or emails. He told me to pull the control card and re-solder the connector and left without charging me.

So I did this. I am now getting ignitor and the purple and white cables to the gas valve are getting power. I do not hear the gas valve clicking on and I am getting no heat. So does this look like the gas valve is bad? If so, this is one of the few things that was working when I started this whole process 2 months ago!
 
  #49  
Old 07-20-13, 07:41 AM
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I put 110V on the gas valve terminals when the heater was not running to test it. I hear a clicking in the gas valve when I give it power. However, after leaving it on for 30 seconds I do not smell gas. I am therefore coming to the conclusion that the gas valve is bad. I also disconnected the gas line and there is definitely gas getting to the heater. My only concern here is that the heater repair guy says the gas valve almost never goes bad. But I can't think of anything else that could be failing at this point?
 
  #50  
Old 07-20-13, 08:40 AM
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Technically there are two coils in that valve but you may not hear two defined clicks. It appears that the second solenoid is connected thru the jumper. Are all those contacts on the valve clean ? If so....it would appear that the valve is defective.


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  #51  
Old 07-20-13, 09:38 AM
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OK. Just to be sure I tested the jumper.

So I tested positive on the second M1 terminal (the first leg of the short red jumper cable) so I know current is flowing into the jumper. I then tested on the second terminal (P3) and I got current flowing there. So there is power going into the valve, and there is current flowing through the jumper cable.

I have already started the process of ordering the valve - seems like this is the only option at this point.

Would gas pressure affect the performance of the valve? Plumbing is definitely not my expertise, but when I tested the gas I unscrewed one of the ends of the pipe that is terminated outside of the heater. When I turned on the gas it definitely came out, and I smelled it and could feel the flow - but I imagined it would be much stronger - like the flow of water through a hose pipe. The pressure didn't seem that high. I had previously created a manometer (tube attached to board style) to check my gas pressure (a few years back). I am happy to buy a proper manometer to check it again but only if there is a possibility this is causing my problem.


P.S. You guys are great on this forum - as frustrating as this is I am learning how the heater works - it is quite interesting.
 
  #52  
Old 07-20-13, 09:44 AM
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The actual pressure does affect the operation of the valve. I don't know if that particular valve needs a minimum pressure to open.

There is fairly low pressure in that gas line. It's not like the 30-50 psi of water pressure you get. It may be down at 1/2 psi.
 
  #53  
Old 07-20-13, 10:45 AM
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valves do go bad, not as much as the little stuff but it is common for them to go bad. Gas pressure does effect the heater and is measured in water column inches. On the heater it should tell you the min and max you should have.
 
  #54  
Old 07-28-13, 02:45 PM
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A quick update. I got the new valve, it is a completely different design with an external inline transformer on the power line. I installed it and the heater fires right up. So far it has been running for about 2 hours with no issues.

I also replaced the orifices that came with the new blower. I couldn't see any distinguishable difference between these and the old ones, but as I had them I put them in.

Thanks for all of the help on the forum.
 
  #55  
Old 07-29-13, 02:42 AM
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It's been a long trek. Glad it's finally working properly. Good job
 
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