Hayward Pool Heater H100ID does not work
#1
08-07-13, 06:08 AM
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Hayward Pool Heater H100ID does not work
I have a Hayward Pool Heater H100ID that is about three years old. It has been working fine until I turned it on the other day and nothing. I checked the power source and it is fine. Still no power to the heater. What can I do next other than buy a new heater.
#2
08-07-13, 07:47 AM
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#3
08-07-13, 07:48 AM
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Welcome to the forums.
Is the door closed properly ? There is a switch and the unit will be dead if not pushed in.
Are you sure you have power......maybe a GFI tripped ?
Manual for you heater. Hayward-pool/pdf/manuals/H-series-H100ID1
There are several threads on this subject. The following is one of them.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/po...-no-spark.html
You may need a voltmeter to perform some tests. Do you have one and know how to use it ?
Is the door closed properly ? There is a switch and the unit will be dead if not pushed in.
Are you sure you have power......maybe a GFI tripped ?
Manual for you heater. Hayward-pool/pdf/manuals/H-series-H100ID1
There are several threads on this subject. The following is one of them.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/po...-no-spark.html
You may need a voltmeter to perform some tests. Do you have one and know how to use it ?
#4
08-07-13, 08:29 AM
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I have the heater working off the same power cord as my pump and the pump is working fine. I changed plugs and still nothing, pump works fine, heater nothing at all.
#5
07-07-14, 08:57 PM
I have a Hayward h100id natural gas that is two months old. It worked off and on pretty well as long as I moved the ground wire around(had a piece of wire attached to the ground lug and the other side jammed into the ground) about three days ago it quit working again. The unit comes on, blows cold air but doesn't ignite. Installed a ground bar and attached the ground wire, flushed the system, pulled the igniter(looked fine) not real handy but can do a little. A Hayward technician can't come out until the 18th or 22nd. That's three weeks of cold pool please help.
#6
07-07-14, 09:24 PM
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It worked off and on pretty well as long as I moved the ground wire around(had a piece of wire attached to the ground lug and the other side jammed into the ground)
Your pool heater should be bonded to the same ground system as your pump and electric. I'd have any ground issue looked at ASAP.
#11
07-09-14, 10:30 AM
Group Moderator
In post three is a link to your manual. The wiring diagram is on page 7.
The three switches circled in orange are the safeties in question. On page7 - left side are the wire colors. Those three switches need to be closed and you will get heat.
The three switches circled in orange are the safeties in question. On page7 - left side are the wire colors. Those three switches need to be closed and you will get heat.
#13
07-14-14, 04:39 PM
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Questions
Good Day, if the fan is coming on with an H100ID heater the safety loop has been satisfied. After the blower comes on do you hear the igniter clicking as it is trying to light? What is your gas supply, natural or propane? if natural how far is the heater from the gas meter and what size is the pipe? If propane, what size gas tank do you have.
#14
07-14-14, 04:54 PM
I do not hear a clicking. I tried turning it on yesterday and it kicked on and stayed on. The water going into the pool was pretty low pressure. Is it possible the things not coming on because the water is too cold? The things only two months old!! Very frustrating! It would not come on today
#16
07-14-14, 06:03 PM
Group Moderator
Good Day, if the fan is coming on with an H100ID heater the safety loop has been satisfied
KenJ..... without a voltmeter to check the switches everything is a guess.
If there isn't enough water flow....... the draft inducer blower (fan) won't start.
#17
07-22-14, 05:18 AM
How can that be...... the pressure switch can't activate until the fan is running. If that switch doesn't change state or the other two limit switches are open.... the fan will run all day and the ignition module will never activate.
Agree... According to the manual schematics, the fan comes on once the pressure switch is satisfied. The limits and air pressure switch are a different circuit that needs to be complete once the fan has started. The OP really needs to get in there with a Volt/Ohm meter to verify continuity.
One other thing to look at on these heaters is the power connections on the board. I have repaired several of these over the years due to cracks in the solder connections on the pins. Hayward refuses to acknowledge that there was a problem with these boards. I have at least 4 in my area that I have re-soldered to repair them. The problem usually shows up after the unit has started and warmed up though.
