Wiring a pool timer
#1
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Wiring a pool timer
I am trying to wire an Intermatic T101R201 which has a heater control that shuts off the heater 20 minutes prior to the filter cycle time. I have a three wire coming from the panel, I am only using 2 wires and keeping the service 110V, hooked to a 20A breaker. The filter and pump wires can be seen in the picture coming up from the bottom of the timer. Heater wire is on the left and Pump wire in on the right. The feed is coming from the side of the box on the right.
The only instructions provided are on the cover of the timer and are not clear to me where I am hooking the heater too. Can someone help me with some explicit directions to which wires are going to which connection points( A, 1, 2 or the two black wires on the right of the panel.
Thanks for the help
The only instructions provided are on the cover of the timer and are not clear to me where I am hooking the heater too. Can someone help me with some explicit directions to which wires are going to which connection points( A, 1, 2 or the two black wires on the right of the panel.
Thanks for the help
#2
Welcome to the forums.
I see your supply conduit coming in from the right. It is missing a ground wire. There should be a #12 solid green wire with those other three.
Cap off incoming red wire.
All three white wires get connected to A. You can make a connection up and then just run a single tail to the timer.
Incoming black wire and either one of the fireman switch wires connect to #1.
Pump black wire connects to 2.
The black wire from the heater connects to the second fireman switch wire.
All greens go to the supplied lug.
Be advised..... many heaters don't like the 120vac being interrupted to them. I normally wire the heater to an always live supply and then bring out a low voltage thermostat cable from the heater to the fireman switch.
You have to determine that when the timer comes around and turns on the fireman switch...that the heater will restart by itself. Some need manual activation from the keypad.
I see your supply conduit coming in from the right. It is missing a ground wire. There should be a #12 solid green wire with those other three.
Cap off incoming red wire.
All three white wires get connected to A. You can make a connection up and then just run a single tail to the timer.
Incoming black wire and either one of the fireman switch wires connect to #1.
Pump black wire connects to 2.
The black wire from the heater connects to the second fireman switch wire.
All greens go to the supplied lug.
Be advised..... many heaters don't like the 120vac being interrupted to them. I normally wire the heater to an always live supply and then bring out a low voltage thermostat cable from the heater to the fireman switch.
You have to determine that when the timer comes around and turns on the fireman switch...that the heater will restart by itself. Some need manual activation from the keypad.
#3
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Pete
Someone gave me the following link
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Inte...ion-manual.pdf
Am I correct with your description and this information that I can do the following:
I can put my three neutrals (white) on A,
The hot from the breaker (black) on 1 and the hot from the filter and heater on 2.
Then do my appropriate grounding of each of them, and then use two additional wires to run to the heater on/off to the fireman switch.
Someone gave me the following link
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Inte...ion-manual.pdf
Am I correct with your description and this information that I can do the following:
I can put my three neutrals (white) on A,
The hot from the breaker (black) on 1 and the hot from the filter and heater on 2.
Then do my appropriate grounding of each of them, and then use two additional wires to run to the heater on/off to the fireman switch.
#4
No.... you did not get that correctly.
The hot TO the filter goes on #2
The hot TO the heater connects to the extra lead from the firemans switch.
The actual screw terminals control the filter and that little black switch controls the heater.
Be sure you check the power on switching to your heater. Make sure when you supply it 120vac that it starts working with no key pressing required.
The hot TO the filter goes on #2
The hot TO the heater connects to the extra lead from the firemans switch.
The actual screw terminals control the filter and that little black switch controls the heater.
Be sure you check the power on switching to your heater. Make sure when you supply it 120vac that it starts working with no key pressing required.