Used spa install. Is this to code?

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Old 07-27-15, 04:10 AM
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Used spa install. Is this to code?

This is my first spa install and I'm just wondering if everything is up to snuff. Just for reference, this is an older spa with the heater and pump on separate circuits. The heater is 240v and the pump is 110v. Here's the plan:

50amp circuit breaker in main circuit panel to be used for subpanel

3 conductor, THWN 6 gauge wire will run from the main panel 50amp breaker outside to Spa sub panel through 1in PVC conduit. 1 red, 1 black, 1 white and 1 green

Spa sub panel will be mounted on the wall, 5 feet from the spa and within line of sight

Inside the sub panel will be 1 30 amp gfci 240v breaker and 1 20 amp gfci breaker

From the sub panel I will lay 1in PVC conduit 20 inches underground to the Spa control panel

From the 30 amp breaker I will run 10 gauge THWN wire through the conduit and to the control panel. 1 black wire and 1 red wire.

From the 20 amp breaker I will run 12 gauge THWN wire through the conduit and to the control panel. 1 black wire and 1 white wire.

From the ground bus of the sub panel I will run 8 gauge THWN wire through the conduit and to the control panel. 1 green wire.

As far as I can tell this is the proper way to do this. Now what I'm wondering is, well for 1 if this will pass inspection, and two what I can use for the Spa panel?

As far as I'm aware, you use one of these: Eaton 50 Amp BR Type Spa Panel-BR50SPA - The Home Depot but I can't find any in the configuration I need so I need to know if I can use something like this: Square D Homeline 100 Amp 6-Space 12-Circuit Outdoor Main Lug Load Center-HOM612L100RBCP - The Home Depot and populate it with the breakers myself and have it serve as the disconnect.

For reference, this is the sub panel the spa is supposed to come with: http://www.backyardplus.com/proddetail.php?prod=301756
 
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Old 07-27-15, 08:18 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Your plan appears sound. You don't have to use a "spa" sub panel..... the multi breaker ones you quoted are fine. You will need to keep the neutrals and the grounds separated in the new subpanel so be sure to get an extra ground bar as the panels don't come with them.

In the new subpanel..... you will not use the neutral bonding screw. It's a long green screw.

Here, in NJ, we are required to install an equipotential bonding wire. It is a #8 solid bare copper wire buried and within 3' of the perimeter of the tub. It goes all the way around the tub and connects to the ground connection in the spa control panel or it can connect to a lug that is attached to the metal control panel.

In the link below.... look at the picture at 680-32. You need to check with your electrical inspector to see if he requires it in your installation. It depends on what the tub is installed on and what is around it.

mike holt/download/Article_680_Pools_and_Similar_Installations.pdf
 
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Old 07-28-15, 08:04 AM
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Yep yep, I'm aware of the neutral/ground being separated in all but the main panel. Wouldn't want current running through the grounds on the way back to the main panel. As far as the perimeter goes, I'll find out about that. Thanks for the warning. I had never heard of it until today.

Now that that's all confirmed I'm wondering if I can also use that sub panel to install an outlet for a swimming pool pump, or does it have to be dedicated to just the Spa?

And also, the main panel in this house is an old Zinsco from 1978. It looks like it's actually in really good shape compared to the ones I've seen before. It looks almost brand new, but still, I know these things have a reputation for catching on fire and I'm not really sure how comfortable I am putting something with such high current draw in it. Do you think it would be safe to do or should I upgrade the panel to something that actually uses modern technology?
 
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