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2005 Hot Spring Envoy Water Diverter Valve Replacement

2005 Hot Spring Envoy Water Diverter Valve Replacement


Old 09-14-15, 12:19 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3
2005 Hot Spring Envoy Water Diverter Valve Replacement

Ok, I'm stumped.

I've watched the amateur youtube video, and replacement of the main water diverter valves on a Hot Spring spa looks pretty straightforward. Except... the diverter valve lever broke off flush with the assembly. Instructions say to pull the diverter valve assembly up by the stem -- but I have no stem! There's nothing to grab onto to pull the valve assembly out of its recessed hole. I tried to gently pry it out... no joy.

The fellow who made the youtube video I watched mentioned that the only thing keeping the diverter valve assembly from exploding out of the recessed hole is the snap ring, which I have (of course) removed. Does anyone think turning on the jets is a good way for me to get this rotten thing out? If no, then what do you suggest?

Thanks a million in advance from a do-it-yourselfer broad! - Rae
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Old 09-14-15, 04:53 PM
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Saying you watched "the video" doesn't mean much since we don't know what you were watching. It sounds like you are trying to work on the valve from the top side? There is very little that can be done from the top and I've never heard of anyone replacing or repairing their diverter valve without some cursing and complaining, and needing a Band-Aid for their skinned knuckles.

Old 09-14-15, 05:49 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3
I dunno... this seemed straightforward enough, and nothing at all about getting any skinned knuckles:

I'm aware of the schematic, but thank you for posting it all the same. Are you suggesting it's easier to get to it by draining the spa and coming at it from underneath?
Old 09-15-15, 06:33 AM
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I'm sorry, I assumed you were replacing the whole thing.

No, don't drain the spa. If the stem has broken off so you can't get a grip run a screw into the plastic valve core then grab the screw with the claw of a hammer or pliers. The core is ruined by the screw hole but it's OK if that's the part your going to replace. Lubricating the new O rings makes everything go back together more easily.

If you have a cover on your spa close it gently. Don't let it fall closed with a "thump". The piping underneath is hanging off that diverter valve's plastic body. Slaming the cover makes the top of the spa shake/flex putting strain on the connections. Eventually it can crack/tear the valve body. This usually shows up as a leak when the main jets are running. It's a cheap part to buy but a real knuckle buster to replace as access is tight and you have to work in a very awkward position.
Old 09-15-15, 09:19 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3
With all sincerity, that's brilliant! You're my hero today. Thank you!

I also appreciate the advice re slamming the cover. I'm not in the habit of doing that, but I never had an actual reason not to do it. Now I do, and I'll remind house guests not to do it, either.

Again, my thanks!

Best, Rae
Old 05-26-17, 08:08 PM
Join Date: May 2017
Location: USA
Posts: 1
Diverter Valve Replacement

Hi Pilot Dane
I have the same issue except that the plastic housing which holds the knob in place is cracked. On the parts image it would be number 5.
I ordered a new one, but cant get the thing to threat out to safe my life. Any ideas?
Old 05-26-17, 10:43 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

It looks like that nut, 75116 collar, has cutouts or notches for some type of spanner wrench. I could not find any mention of one though.

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Easier to see two notches in picture two. I think I'd try to find something like a putty knife that could fit into those two notches. Use that as a removal tool. You may have to grind the knife to fit perfectly in those two notches.

You could also take a putty knife and grind it on an angle on both sides. Leave those two ground sides sharp and carefully tap it into the nut so that it digs into the plastic. Try removing it now.

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