Jetted tub dead

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  #1  
Old 10-22-15, 06:02 AM
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Jetted tub dead

I have a commercial account (hotel) that has one room listed as the "Jacuzzi Room" that has an over sized 2 person tub that no longer works. It is old enough that the manufacturer is out of business and direct replacement parts are not available. They have had the motor out and checked and it comes back as working fine. They replaced the external control pad (the one the user would operate from outside the tub) and the tub worked for 2 days. Now they are sitting on a large bath tub and nothing else.

Here are some pictures. It has an in-line heater which really is an option that is not needed as access to hot water is not a problem in the building (recirc pump to all rooms, instant hot water). Really just need the pump to switch on. Can a simple switch that activates the pump be installed, heater control box removed and pipes simply connected straight in line? I believe the heater was on the discharge end of the pump.

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  #2  
Old 10-22-15, 06:29 AM
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Yea, if you don't want heat that makes things a lot easier. The heater carries with it controls to maintain temperature and automatic over temp shutdown for safety. Without that you just need a switch for the pump provided any capacitors for starting are on the motor. You may want to use a timer switch. The only gotcha might be if the system had a sensor for the presence of water before allowing the motor to be turned on. Maybe a sign next to the switch and a sticker in the tub saying "fill to this level before turning on jets".
 
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Old 10-22-15, 10:48 AM
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When you see a handwritten product ID plate it's a specialty product.

There should be a GFI circuit feeding that and it may have a wall mounted dead faced one.
You may be able to install an electronic timer next to it.

It will depend on the voltage and amperage of the motor.

Is there going to be an electrician doing this work ?
 
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Old 10-22-15, 02:18 PM
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Is there going to be an electrician doing this work ?
If needed then yes to an electrician. All the power is currently located underneath the bed of the unit. It is a modified drop in sitting on a raised platform with Tiled steps (3) up to get into it. Even though my picture is a little blurry, it says pump circuit is 120 vac 12 amp. I would need to know what to purchase to simply have a pump on/off. Is a circuit board needed in that situation? Can you simply have a timer switch and that is all? I assume the timer should be located outside of the reach of someone sitting in the tub.
 
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Old 10-22-15, 02:29 PM
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You're working at a commercial account IE: they charge for rooms. You're working with a tub.... a wet location unit. Yes.... you should use a licensed electrician to do the work due to liability issues.

Is there one of these on the wall ?

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Simple rewiring and a wall timer may be all that's needed. Something like one of these.

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  #6  
Old 10-22-15, 02:52 PM
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Pete

I'm being called in as a last resort, I really don't want anything to do with it. I am the old reliable that finds solutions. They have had several companies out that only want to sell them a new unit. They know I will do my utmost regardless of my specialties (and this aint one) and provide rational follow up and not simply take advantage of deep pocket books. Logic says that a good motor, good source of water, means we can get this baby working again. Without all the bells and whistles.

So guide me, Check one, secure electrician, check two, get a timer, check three, shield myself from any liability, check four, make my best clients happy. As always, Love the guidance this forum always provides.
 
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Old 10-22-15, 07:26 PM
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The "go to" man..... alright. Sounds familiar.

I'm going shopping and will keep adding to this post.

You're going to need to find the power wiring coming into the tub. Obviously it comes from underneath but from where. There will be two circuits. One for pump and one for heat.

This is what your current heater looks like. Might be a b*tch to bypass. Maybe just leave it alone.
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Old 10-23-15, 03:18 AM
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Yes, the circuitry shown in the pictures is mounted on top of the "T" assembly as you show. Is there a "universal T" assembly that acts as a union that I can remove one and replace with another pipe only set up?

I talked to the manager yesterday, she said there was not a water level sensor that would prevent start up if water level was too low. They simply had warning notices posted that said not to operate until water level was at least at the tub level.

Would providing different pictures of the motor help?
 
  #9  
Old 10-23-15, 10:27 AM
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I don't know about a universal T.

At this point you should locate the motor wiring and where the circuits enter the tub. You should confirm that the circuits are GFI protected.
 
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Old 10-23-15, 02:50 PM
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Thanks Pete, lets assume that the GFI protected circuit is in place. It will be either at the plug underneath (which I did not check when I took the pictures) or it is at the breaker as each room is separately wired back to the panel. What is the next step, I only want to incur one electrician visit and therefore have everything in hand for the wiring portion. I will have to remove the heater and take it with me to get replacement pipe. I don't want to disconnect any wiring yet unless it means nothing in the scope of things.
 
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Old 10-23-15, 03:44 PM
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[GFCI] will be either at the plug underneath (which I did not check when I took the pictures) or it is at the breaker
Or a Deadface on the wall of the bathroom.
 
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Old 10-23-15, 04:01 PM
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Why remove the heater. It isn't bothering anything unless it's leaking. Just unplug it and let it hang out. It should be plugged into it's own receptacle.

You can add a cord and plug to the motor and just plug it in.
As I mentioned before, and Ray just mentioned again, it was very common to put a deadface GFI device in the wall near a tub like that. That would make the job easy as you could tie the switch in there to control the receptacle under the tub.

If the wiring goes from the panel directly to the tub then you will have to figure out how to get a switch in the wall and wire it.

Don't worry about the wiring at the tub.....you won't be using any of it.
 
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Old 10-23-15, 07:51 PM
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I'm starting to see the light, thanks guys. I will investigate further.
 
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Old 10-30-15, 09:03 AM
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I'm meeting with my Electrician on this project on site next week sometime. He states that the GFCI can not go near the tub as if it trips, it would still be a hot box so it needs to be moved remotely. I also found out that there is a separate panel servicing this room, or at least this tub which is just kind of hanging out int the main hallway below the room. It is a concrete and block building and I guess they ran the wires down one of the chases for plumbing or ventilation of the bathrooms. We will have to ping the wires to see which one services the tub. Anyway, looks like we may be able to pull this one home. Which is why I am the go to guy. Will keep you updated.
 
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Old 10-30-15, 04:38 PM
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I attempted to do a conversion using Google, and searched for, how many feet is near? and How many feet is two near. There were no results. Perhaps this is a counting system used exclusively by your electrician?

NEC in the USA is minimum of 5' from the water line.
 
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Old 10-30-15, 09:43 PM
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Have you found any GFI's feeding the tub yet ?

They'll either be underneath, at the panel or in the wall.
Usually the motor GFI is on the wall and yes it needs to be more than 5' away. You can't be in the tub and able to hit it.

If the building is concrete and block.... your electrician will probably need to mount a surface box and conduit for the switch. He may be able to set a timer and a dead front GFI in a 4" square box with a two gang plate.

Not sure how neat you'll be able to make this.
 
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Old 10-31-15, 11:29 AM
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Pete, I'm just passing the buck at this point on to my electrician. It looks like the extra panel box is a dedicated box for that tub and room. Of the 4 breakers in that box, two are labeled for that room. Both are 15 amp breakers by the way, so probably need an upgrade anyway. It is located separate from all other rooms in the building, those panels are found in a utility closet at the end of the hall. You have told me in theory that with a functioning motor we can by-pass the heater and it was a great idea for a remote timer. But, I personally only want a supervisory role from here on unless there is some textured drywall that needs to be repaired as a result of our poking around.
 
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Old 11-13-15, 05:46 AM
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To finalize, had electrician out, wired up to a 3o minute timer mounted outside the reach of someone inside the tub and we are back in business. He used to original electronics box as a junction box, disabled everything in that box. Isolated the power in and to the motor, and ran a switch loop under the tub into the bathroom and through the walls to the final timer destination. Tub was already on a dedicated GFCI breaker. A beautiful simple idea -thanks for verifying this could be done and showing the light. Saved the hotel thousands of dollars vs a new tub. Appreciate it guys!
 
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Old 11-14-15, 12:29 AM
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Awesome news...... glad it worked out for you.
 
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