Hot tub heating trouble


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Old 12-28-16, 08:14 AM
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Hot tub heating trouble

Hi,
Here is the problem, my 2007 Legacy Spa by Master Spa won't get above 62 degrees. Here is some back story. Last spring the heater on the spa decided to sop working correctly, I replaced the heater and I also replaced the electrical box that supplied the hot tub. Everything worked great until last week. I came home and I checked the hot tub and noticed that it had no power. I checked the breaker box that I had replaced, everything looked fine. Now also attached to this box is an outlet for Christmas lights, but it is not tied to the circuit for the hot tub. So the Christmas lights were out also. So I turned the breakers off and back on. Now I had power to the lights and tub, the Christmas lights keep tripping their breaker, but the hot tub has not, problem now is that the hot tub will not heat up, even though the light is on showing the heater is on. The nearest repair guy is about 50 miles away and charges by the mile, there and back. Any help would be great. If I have confused anyone I'm sorry.
 
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Old 12-28-16, 12:32 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Just slightly confused.

Do you have a voltmeter ?
You should have a sub panel where the GFI breaker is for the Christmas lights and the two pole GFI is for the spa.

Since the spa is 120/240v it probably has one leg of the power which is supplying the power to run the electronics but since the second leg is missing.... there is no 240vac.

You need to check for 240VAC at the spa breaker and then again at the spa itself.
 
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Old 12-28-16, 01:05 PM
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Would it matter that the pumps all work??? This has me baffled.
 
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Old 12-28-16, 01:19 PM
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Usually the pumps are 240v.

Try measuring the voltage right at the board where the heater connects. It needs to be 240v.
 
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Old 12-28-16, 02:00 PM
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Yes I have a meter, like I said though both pumps work at hi speed. I will check in about an hour when I get home from work. I hope I just lost a leg........ There is a joke there, but it being close to freezing and I don't want to lose my hot tub I don't feel I can mange jokes. What a shame. I'll keep you posted.
 
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Old 12-28-16, 04:57 PM
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As long as A pump is running it shouldn't freeze.
 
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Old 12-28-16, 05:18 PM
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Legs are fine, at least the wife said so. Bad news is, well look at the picture. What would cause this???
 
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Old 12-29-16, 05:36 AM
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Is there any component at the source of the heating/melting? If not it's possible that a loose connection allowed some corrosion to develop. The corrosion creates resistance and heat when the heater is on and eventually damaged the board.
 
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Old 12-29-16, 08:17 AM
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Yes there is a component, top left corner. I did not see and corrosion. Right off the bat I know I'm going to have to replace the board, but what my concern is, I bought that heater last spring (June 2016) I went cheap to save $60 or so, did this happen because of a cheaper heater??? Or something more??? Right now it seems the heater is working halfway, I'm guessing because of that burnt component. Any ideas.
 
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Old 12-29-16, 08:58 AM
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Heaters are very basic. If you got the correct wattage buying a cheaper heater should not harm your control board.

I suppose it is possible that your heater is working at half voltage. If your control board is somehow feeding it 120 volts instead of the full 240 you might have partial heat. If you've been running the jets you may be seeing heating from the friction of the water flowing through the pipes. All that energy that gets put into moving the water ends up as heat.
 
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Old 12-29-16, 09:01 AM
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I see damage from water tracking. Did that heater possibly leak from it's connection ?

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Last edited by PJmax; 12-29-16 at 10:28 AM. Reason: reoriented picture
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Old 12-29-16, 10:11 AM
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The picture is a tad misleading, you have to rotate it to the right 90 degrees, so your red circle would be the top left corner. I did not see any sign of water leakage. The box with this control board is sealed, but being a part time fire fighter I know that nothing is fully sealed. I did not see any type of residue from water, the heater tube had no water stains and there was no water on the bottom of the case. I will take another look though. I'm guessing that the black box component just went bad, it is almost 10 years old out in the elements.
 
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Old 12-29-16, 10:30 AM
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I reoriented the picture. I still see signs of water damage between the large copper foil and the part I circled. You can see how the foil was eaten.

It looks like the copper foil on that board has been lifted from the board. Hard to tell from pic.

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Last edited by PJmax; 12-29-16 at 10:55 AM.
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Old 12-29-16, 02:01 PM
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Not trying to discount what your saying, I mean I'm going to check for a leak, but wouldn't the foil lift if it was getting to hot???? Just asking because I'm not sure. I want to order a new board, but I don't want the new board to fail also. I'm trying to get my ducks in a row here I hope you guys understand.
 
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Old 12-31-16, 11:29 AM
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Well, I ordered a new board. I'm thinking that when the heater went bad last spring, it weakened the component, the black box. Then it just finally gave up after 6 months of use. So I should have the new board on the 4th, should be able to let you guys know on the 5th if it is working. Wish me luck.
 
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Old 12-31-16, 03:16 PM
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I'm sticking with my original guess of the connection got too hot. It may be a loose connection, corrosion, the board is poorly manufactured or the board is poorly designed.

A heater pretty much draws the current it draws. If it's shorting out it will draw more but that's usually a pretty brief occurrence until something fails. So, I don't think your heater going bad would do that kind of damage to the control board. I think your board suffered from a long term overheating situation.

When your new control board arrives just make sure that your heater cable is shiny and clean and the connection is good and tight. Other than that just sleep happy knowing that you saved the cost of a service call and their markup on the replacement control board.
 
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Old 01-03-17, 06:22 AM
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I will, I have my sand paper all ready to go. Maybe I'll use my dremel with a little wire wheel to make sure it is nice and clean. Would you advise using any dielectric grease on these connections??? The reason I ask, I used to run an electrolytic grinder and whenever I replaced the grinding wheels and had to place grease on the surface between the hub of the grinder wheel and the shaft that it was connected to. Just a question.
 
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Old 01-03-17, 09:00 AM
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If both surfaces are nice and clean and the connection is tight grease should not be needed but it should not hurt. I grease the connections on much of my machinery that spends time out in the weather.
 
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Old 01-05-17, 05:24 AM
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ok, new panel is in. The temp came up. So on to the next issue. Not all of the controls on the topsides are working. I can turn both pumps on, the lights go on, but the two buttons that control the temps don't work. I know I put all wires into the correct places. Could the dip switch setting be wrong????
 
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Old 01-05-17, 11:17 AM
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Were the two Balboa board numbers identical ?
Post the number for me.

I don't think the dip switches affect the display panel buttons.
Most of those boards use one small cable with what looks like a modular phone plug on it.
There should only be one cable to the display board.

Pull the plug out of the main control board and make sure it's 100% clean.
Any corrosion on this pins will cause problems.
 
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Old 01-05-17, 11:42 AM
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I'll have to check when I get home, I just find it funny that it would work on the one board, but not the next. The board I'm replacing is a 54494. I have the old board here at work, I noticed two separate jumper spots, is it possible that these jumpers are on the wrong pins on the new board??? On the board it is location J43 and J12. Just curious. Just another quick question since I am human, what would happen if I plugged the modular plug into the wrong jack??
 

Last edited by Ikentrouble; 01-05-17 at 01:19 PM.
 

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