Problems with Hydro-Quip spa (hq-2000}

Reply

  #1  
Old 03-15-19, 09:12 PM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: USA
Posts: 6
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Problems with Hydro-Quip spa (hq-2000}

i own a no name hot tub for many years and have been successful to keep it running but now i am confronted with a problem i can't seem to solve on my own. if there is someone that could guide me to find out what to do i would be thankful.
the unit i have is a hydro-quip hq-2000. i know it is old but i live on a limited budget and i use the hot tub for pain relieve instead of medication. (this link shows the item and its parts list. https://www.aqua-man.com/schematic.asp?kc=S1901 )
it is connected to a 220v breaker. it has 2 air switches on the top as the only controls (there is no board inside) one for light the other one to turn on high speed on the pump . low side of pump comes on via timer, set filtering or temp set heat and filtering. now when i try to turn on light there is none also when turning on pump via air switch or timer/thermostat there is a bad buzzing from contactor but nothing comes on
so i replaced the contactor with a new one but same result .i also exchanged both relays in the unit but same ..nothing but a buzzing (no movements not a clicking) noise still from the new contactor and still even the light still dead (i tested bulb its fine . i direct connected pump and it is fine running well on both speeds) i checked both air switches and they work. the 24h timer is only 6 month old and seems to react but could it be low current not strong enough to activate the contactor? when the timer gave up before it was pretty obvious at that time.
well that is what i know so far any suggestions be really appreciated and if needed give more info if someone points me to what could be relevant. thanks in advance
 

Last edited by koby411; 03-15-19 at 10:20 PM. Reason: missspellings
  #2  
Old 03-16-19, 05:51 AM
P
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 24,749
Received 788 Votes on 725 Posts
Do you have a volt meter? If so I would first check across the two hots to make sure the spa is getting 240 VAC.
 
  #3  
Old 03-16-19, 02:42 PM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: USA
Posts: 6
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
i measure the voltage. first at the breaker 110v on red 110v on black. then at the post inside the control box.
there it is 133v on red and 110v on black . strange change in voltage? also while i check it there the red miss fire warning light came on during the testing when i lift the test probes off the light is off . now on second round testing the red light does not come on anymore i tested the overload switch and its open and shows continuity
 
  #4  
Old 03-16-19, 05:34 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 61,456
Received 1,416 Votes on 1,310 Posts
You need to check for 240vAC where it should be present.
You are getting a strange reading because you are missing one leg of the 240v power.

Check across those same two wires for 240vAC. If you don't get 240v then you will need to disconnect the spa and then check each wire to ground to see which leg is missing.
 
  #5  
Old 03-16-19, 09:02 PM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: USA
Posts: 6
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
sorry maybe i did not say it right both legs going into the control panel are carrying voltage so yes there is 240v going into it what was unusual to me was that one leg (black) at the breaker reads 120V and 110V at the main post inside the panel
but the other leg (red) reads 120v coming out of the breaker ( double breaker 30A each side ) but by the time it arrives at the panel post it reads 133v.
i checked the wire and it does not show any damage or breakage
cross checking at the breaker and the panel both show 240V.
 
  #6  
Old 03-16-19, 09:06 PM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: USA
Posts: 6
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
i should add that i think i figured out the red miss fire on the door panel light
i guess i caused that by testing with the probes showing a false neutral connection which must have triggered the red light. just strange now when i test there is no red light .
 
  #7  
Old 03-16-19, 09:10 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 61,456
Received 1,416 Votes on 1,310 Posts
That link you left for the wiring diagram is incorrect. Can you leave a new one ?
Yes.... those voltages do sound strange.
Is there a four wire feeder to the spa panel ?
Red, black, white and ground ?
Check the voltages from the red and black to white/neutral and ground.
See if they match.
 
  #8  
Old 03-17-19, 03:56 AM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: USA
Posts: 6
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
first of all : thank you for your patience and help !

https://www.aqua-man.com/schematic.asp?kc=S1901


this is the only thing i found about the hydro-quip hq 2000 parts shown and list
the unit is so old i have not been able to find a schematic online . in the latest hydro-quip catalog the cs6000 and the cs 7000 are very similar .(analog timer,120/240 ,single 2 speed pump) i have no other top controls besides 2 air buttons ( light, pump high/low speed ) no blower or other attachments.
the power to the unit is : 4 wires red/black/white/ground and checking the voltage they do not match
matter of fact they are all over the place .
something is not right there because when i turned on the breaker to hot tub (which still has the buzzing sound then ) i checked the voltage of several other circuits which are way above 120v and fluctuating like crazy but go back to normal when i shut the hot tub breaker off
i noticed a discoloration on the neutral (white) wire from the tub where it connects in my main house panel .maybe it is loose i will cut/clean it and reconnect it in the morning and see if the reading become normal. if that does not help i will change the breaker just in case.
 
  #9  
Old 03-17-19, 12:26 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 61,456
Received 1,416 Votes on 1,310 Posts
All I could find on your system was this.
Not even sure if it's the same as your system.

It sounds like your problem is before the spa. Your spa requires 120/240v to operate. Check the 2P breaker at the main panel that supplies the spa. Check it for 240v between red and black as well as 120v between red and white and black and white. Try this with the spa sub panel breaker on and off.

We need to determine what is causing the voltage variations.
 
  #10  
Old 03-18-19, 01:40 PM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: USA
Posts: 6
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
you were absolutely right !!!!
after you directed me to test the voltage where i noticed the brown spot on the main neutral wire. i cleaned the end up and reconnected it firmly . tested it and all voltage readings returned to normal . the hot tub is running just fine now .heating ,timing ,high/low pump, light all ok thanks to you making me checking the basics instead of overthinking things solved the problem i even put the old relays and contactor back in and all is good .gives me some spare parts if needed in the future.
me and my "hurting old bones" are grateful for your help and thank you very much !!!!


by the way you out of 3 help forums i posted in were the only one responding so again thank you very much.
 
  #11  
Old 03-18-19, 03:03 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 61,456
Received 1,416 Votes on 1,310 Posts
You are very welcome and thank you for letting us know how you made out.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: