Upgrading 120V Pump to 240V Pump

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Old 06-23-20, 07:46 PM
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Upgrading 120V Pump to 240V Pump

Hi there, first time poster here so trust I am doing this correctly.

I recently inherited a 2006 Caldera Highland Cumberland hot tub in “as-is” condition.

TLR Version (long story follows below):

I understand that the original pump in this model was a 120V, 1.5 HP, 2-spd, 48 frame pump. Somewhere along the line, I’m guessing this motor failed as the motor I inherited the spa with is a 240V, 2.0 HP, 2-spd, 56 frame. The spa is wired for 240V but this powers the heater only. The pump high/low relays are both connected on the circuit board to a pin labelled “Pump 1&2 Neutral” which comes off the white line of the 240V input. Tested with a multimeter and it indeed produces 120V only. On the red line is an unused pin labelled “Pump 1&2 L2”. If I move this wire from the Neutral (white) pin to the L2 (red) pin, will I get 240V and allow the pump to work? The heater is already connected across the red and black, providing 240V, which makes me think I can do the same for the pump. Will this cause other issues on the board? Overload a relay or logic circuit component for example?

Long Version:

I had assumed at first that this was the original pump, filled the tub and fired it up. It seemed to run reasonably well on low speed for about a minute, would only run on high speed for about 5 seconds, then shut off with a flow error (shows as -.-.-.- on this model). Thinking I had a pressure switch problem, I tried jumping the switch, which enabled the pump to run on low speed for a little longer before shutting down with a high limit error (shows as - - - -). I opened all the jets, pulled the filter, and cleaned out the lines to ensure zero blockages. Flow was visually good, but the error kept happening. Next I checked the pump by pulling it out and putting it up on a test bench directly wired to a 240V connection. No issues there on either high or low speeds.

This led me to the circuit board, which I had all but assumed was damaged or had faulty relays at this point. First I checked the incoming line and found 240V across red and black. Then I checked the pump high and low speed lines after the relays and found that they were only giving 120V each.

Finally clued in that my assumption that the pump was original was incorrect. The circuit board was giving 120V because it was originally built for a 120V motor, not the 240V motor it currently has. Now I see that I do indeed have a flow error, despite visually decent flow, because the pump is actually underpowered.

Question now. When looking at the circuit board, I see the pump is plugged into a pin called “Pump 1&2 Neutral” which comes off the white line of the 240V input. This makes complete sense that the high/low relays are then throwing 120V.

Coming off the red line is another pin called “Pump 1&2 L2”. I’m thinking if I move the wire from Neutral to L2, I will then get 240V coming off the high/low relays and correctly power the pump. My only concern is possibly overloading the relays and/or logic components that I may be overlooking.

If anyone has any advice on this or experience with the same, it would be greatly appreciated! If you hung in there for this whole read, thank you!
 
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Old 06-23-20, 07:55 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

When asking for detailed help on something like this...... include the part number of the control board. Pictures are always a big help too..... How-to-insert-pictures.

If I move this wire from the Neutral (white) pin to the L2 (red) pin, will I get 240V and allow the pump to work?
The short answer is yes.
Does that wire only supply power to that pump ?
I'm assuming there are other 120v motors that need to be kept at 120v.
 
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Old 06-23-20, 08:35 PM
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Hi Pjmax, thanks for the reply.

The board itself is stamped with Invensys Controls 9-671-0 CL-A. I’ve attached a close up here showing this marking.

Spa serial is CUHSC2H3004.
Pump is a Century 2.0, P/N 7-187693-01, 230V, 3450/1725 RPM, 8.0/3.0 amps on a Waterways Executive 56 wet end.

Also attached is an overall shot of the entire board.

To answer your question, there is only one pump, however the board has two fuses coming off the black line running to pins marked Pump 1 L1 and Pump 2 L1 respectively which then go to relays. Pump 2 pins are empty. Looking into the specs on this 2006 Highland Cumberland, it appears that it only ever had 1 pump. The owners manual does show another model from the Highland line though called Olympia which came with two 240V pumps. I am assuming since they’re both in the Highland series covered by the same manual, they probably used the same circuit board, with the Olympia making use of the Pump 2 pins.

I can provide closer shots of the board for anything obscured by wires.

Also, with respect to the jumper configurations, any idea what the difference is between the “230 VAC converted spa” and the “230 VAC permanently connected spa”? What is a converted spa vs permanently connected spa? See attached jumper schematics for details.






 
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Old 06-23-20, 08:50 PM
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So you're just moving the red wire down to the next pin..... pump 1&2 - L2.
That should be fine. That is less of a load on the relay.

Looks like your red supply wire needs a little attention.
 
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Old 06-23-20, 08:56 PM
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You got it. That’s what I’m proposing doing. Just want to make sure it won’t overload or interfere with any of the other components, like the caps, and logic components. I don’t think it will as I believe they run independent of the pump and heater power lines, but I’m not well versed in this area.

Noted on the red supply line. I’ll correct this before firing it back up.
 
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Old 06-23-20, 09:04 PM
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That jumper looks to be dedicated to the two pumps only. I don't see any other connections.
 
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Old 06-24-20, 06:37 PM
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Quick follow up on this. I moved the pin today and fired it up. All good! Pump is running like new and no more error codes. Thanks for your help!
 
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Old 06-24-20, 06:47 PM
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Good job. Thanks for letting us know all is ok.
 
 

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