External pool vacuuming pump

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  #1  
Old 08-22-20, 05:04 PM
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External pool vacuuming pump

I don't want to use my pool pump to vacuum the pool. I once rented a pump from Sunflower Rentals for $50ish. It's inlet was big enough to accommodate the vacuum hose. Problem is Sunflower closed around here and I can't seem to figure out what pump that was.

I have seen this one, I just don't know how to rate suction power that will translate into vacuuming. 50-60 ish is my budget, any ideas or recommendations on a pump?

Pump



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  #2  
Old 08-22-20, 06:40 PM
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That top pump is 600 gph. It would probably work ok but not be overly strong.
Pool pumps are typically 2000 gph or more.
Depending on how dirty your pool is.... like leaves and sticks...... you'll need to add some type of filter/screen to that pump to keep it from clogging
 
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Old 08-23-20, 04:48 AM
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Most pool hose is 1 1/2". I would be looking for a pump that took at least that size. I think using a smaller pump like the 1" will be disappointing for cleaning.
 
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Old 09-14-20, 06:48 AM
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Managed to get a Century regular pool pump. I need help to safely wire it up, so I have a few questions.

1-It's rated 115/230v. I think 115v is convenient since I can just use a regular outlet, correct?
2-That 115v does not reduce the pump's performance compared to 230v, correct?
3-If 110v is aok what gauge wire/extension cord is acceptable? Same question if it has to be the 230v mode.
4-I would like to position an on/off switch. What amp switch is acceptable or will a regular household wall switch be ok?
5-Please instruct/draw etc the correct way to connect wiring.





 

Last edited by PJmax; 09-14-20 at 10:02 PM. Reason: resized/labeled pics
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Old 09-14-20, 08:15 AM
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1. The pump can be run off of 120 but it will consume most of a circuit's capacity. It can use a "regular" outlet but it would be best to be on it's own, dedicated circuit.

2. Running on 120 or 240 does not change the motors performance. It only changes the amperage draw.

3. You should not use an extension cord if you can. If you must I would get at least a 14 ga cord though a 12 ga would be better. I doubt you will be using an extension cord if running off 240 but it could use a smaller gauge wire as the amperage draw will be half that at 120 volts.

4. The data plate says the motor consumes 16 amps at 120 volts so you will need a switch rated for at least that. I would go heavier duty to handle the high current load for the short period when the motor is starting.

5. The data plate already has a chart showing how to wire the motor depending on what voltage you are running. In your photo you can see the numbered contacts the diagram refers to.
 
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Old 09-14-20, 11:55 AM
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Thanx for the clarification.
Please excuse my nube question but....when it comes to reading electrical stuff that's where I need a pointer. I know it's drawn on the diag. but when I look at the motor itself I see 2 terminals upper with 2 tabs, lower with 3 tabs, and no voltage switch selector as I have seen on UT vids. I know there's a difference somewhere on the connections for 115 & 230 per the diag. but where, if all there is the 2 terminals only?

BTW what and where is it indicated, the HP for this pump?
 
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Old 09-14-20, 01:00 PM
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There is no switch. The diagram shows you where to connect the wires for each voltage. For example to run on 120 volts you would connect the white wire with a black line (Black TR (TR stands for trace)) to spade terminal 5. The solid black wire gets connected to space terminal 6. Then your input power gets connected to spade terminals 1 and 6.

Be careful when watching videos. There are many different types of motors with different ways to wire them. If your motor has a data plate follow it and disregard most of what you find online.
 
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Old 09-14-20, 01:53 PM
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Yes I am trying to make sure I understand this correctly before I proceed. I am trying to relate your info to what I have on the pump itself. I am not sure I quite understand. Is this what you are talking about, do i have these right or what is the correct numbering order?



 

Last edited by PJmax; 09-14-20 at 10:25 PM. Reason: corrected motor numbering/added motor wiring
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Old 09-14-20, 02:43 PM
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No, the two wires are already connected and should be numbered. The two wires in there are probably on #3 & #5 or #5 & #6.
 
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Old 09-14-20, 10:26 PM
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I renumbered your diagram correctly. Your motor is currently wired for 230v operation.
Your incoming power wiring always goes to the binding posts..... #1 and #6.
 
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Old 09-15-20, 08:31 AM
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Everything makes sense now after re-reading the whole post...for 115v operation #5 solid wire would move to #6 spade, #3 TR would move to #5 spade. Also that 240v can run on 14GA wire but 115v needs at least 12GA, correct?

Quick clarification...I know for 230v +ve or -ve can be connected to either terminals, doesn't matter. But to run 115v does it matter since the #5 solid wire will be on #6 spade, must the 115v +ve also be connected to only #6 post? and the -ve to #1 post?

I have a 2 115v empty outlets where I could connect from. But if I was to use 240v I want to know if I can tap from the current pool supply setup. First source is the switch which cuts power off to the intermattic timers. The second source is the intermattic timers themselves, the numbered 1 conduit is to the 240v line to the pool pump. #2 is to the booster pump for pool sweep cleaner. Between the two points which and how can I tap a 240v from? I am thinking once option is to create a 240v outlet right next to either one or second option I have a 14ga extension cord I can snip off the plug and wire it into the recommended source.
BTW there's a wifi switch with a contactor that turns on/off the intermattic timers that turn on the pool pump. So when I need to use the external pump the pool pump will not come on as the wifi switch has it off.



 
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Old 09-15-20, 05:13 PM
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That looks like #12 wiring. It will be printed on the jacket.
That timer is sad looking and those connections are pretty corroded and are not long for this world.

When wiring to 120v..... if the manufacturer wanted the neutral on a certain terminal they would have labeled them L1 and L2. Since there is no designation..... either wire can go on either terminal.

Also that 240v can run on 14GA wire but 115v needs at least 12GA, correct?
At 240v the current is 8A so you could use #14 wiring.
At 120v the current is doubled.... 16A and you'd need #12 wiring.

By code.... each pump is supposed to be on it's own circuit..... or at least it's own breaker from a sub panel. You have two doubled up on one circuit and now you want to add a third. I can't recommend doing that but if you do it.... you must make sure only one pump can run at a time.
 
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Old 09-16-20, 10:22 AM
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Great thanx. Yeah only one pump can run. Pool was installed mid 90s best guess. So yeah a bunch of things are dated - my next projects.

If I do the 230v setup, tapping power from the cut off switch. Voltage is reading 276v at that switch, supplying Pool pump rated 230v is aok? I know it's been running this way but isn't that voltage way to high for a 230v pump? This is usually ok?

I have a 14ga Stranded CU THHN Wire, a 20 Amp 250-Volt Grounding Plug, a reuse a 230v outlet from a water heater i converted, 4 in. x 2 in. metal Electrical Box Raised Ground. Let me know if I need to change anything.

Is this a good wire to use?






If I do the 115v setup - they have a 125V, 15 Amp Male Plug Connector. But 115v setup requires min 16amps, does a 1 amp shortfall make a difference on the plug? Alt. is it ok to connect a 12 ga Solid CU THHN Wire to it or get a 250v 20amp plug to run the 115v setup?
 

Last edited by bambata; 09-16-20 at 10:44 AM.
  #14  
Old 09-16-20, 10:38 AM
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That's 20% high for voltage. Check some other things around the house like 120 v electric outlets or where the dryer or stove plugs in to see if they are high like that as well. Normally power companies hold the voltage +/- 5% and most devices are designed to accommodate +/- 10% without damage.
 
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Old 09-16-20, 11:20 AM
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Ouch. That's what I was reading and that is what prompted me to run that by you guys. Seems I should do 115v, those outlets are reading 124...127v. Seems still high but everything here runs off those and never had anything get fried.

Also what are your thoughts on using a 125V, 15 Amp Male Plug Connector on a 12ga solid cu thhn wire for the 115v setup or is it ok instead to use a 250v 20 make plug on a 115v line?
 
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Old 09-16-20, 01:25 PM
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Any comments on my last question guys?

Tested the drier outlet it's 270v. We have had this unit for 10yrs.
Other outlets are reading 121..122.7v
 

Last edited by bambata; 09-16-20 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 09-16-20, 05:13 PM
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Check the voltage at different times of day. If you consistently see high voltage I would contact your power company.

As for the plug I would only use an appropriately sized one and certainly would not go smaller. The correct plug and socket are only a bit more expensive and the socket configuration is always there to help indicate that it is a "different" circuit.
 
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Old 09-16-20, 07:30 PM
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If that's a digital meter..... change its battery.
Your 120v receptacles are almost spot on.... the 240v shouldn't be that far off.
 
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