Hi there,
when trying to replace the bearing for a hot tube motor, I did broke the disk for centrifugal start switch as on image, I did not find this part to buy, Any place where I can find this part?. Is it any suggestion how to fix that disk, can I glue it or is another solution? Thanks, Chris
Last edited by cmarines; 04-25-23 at 10:08 AM.
Reason: more image
You did not provide any information about the motor so we can't tell you where to find parts. The motor is likely made by someone other than the pump manufacturer. If you can find the motor's manufacturer/brand and a model number you can look online for parts. If you do find motor parts available to that level you should also buy a lottery ticket because it's your lucky day. Most.
I did attach more details regarding the motor, please see the new images.
If this part (the disk from centrifugal start switch) cannot be find, is it any way I can fix that by glue? It looks the disk push the contacts for the start on one side only. Wondering if I can glue some layer on the other side. Thanks for any answer.
I don't think the disc will survive for long if it's glued. The centrifugal force will put a lot of strain on it. Add in the heat and vibration and I wouldn't trust it for long. It probably would work without gluing that piece back but you might have a out of balance vibration.
2005 coleman 471
when i discovered the leak i wasnt sure the rate of leak. i over filled it so the heater would run (had DRY message) and heated up the water so no chance of freezing when i turned it off. over night it was about 1 inch lower. called tech and he would come in 3 days. the day he came i checked and it was about 5 inches down from the overfilled level i had it at.
when the guy came he said he saw it leaking where the skimmer met the frame. i wasnt home to see this. he called me next day and said they used flex seal on another customers tub and they never called back so assume it fixed it. he said they could come back in 3 days and try it. in those 3 days the water didnt appear to go down. so it did appear indeed just at skimmer level it was leaking
he was here yesterday and the flex steel was very runny even after shaking the can. he sprayed the crap out of it and told me i could put a 2nd coat on next day after 24 hours. i paid 300 for this. today i went out and took these pics. i called but techs arent in on weekends . i decided to peel away the loose and just spray it more for the fun of it. but then it got me wondering. where the cracking was did that really matter? the joint is below it isnt it? if so it seems like you need something thick painted on 'up and under ' the joint if i'm seeing it correctly.
any ideas?
[img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/hot_tub_leak_1_0c26aa99d641b52e0d2b596f247a5abdcdb95c99.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/hot_tub_leak_2_d6005fdc79b2a53158f5e47f20145ba76fc7f9c2.jpg[/img]Read More
New house with a pool so I'm learning and fixing variuous things. I ntoiced there is an intermatic timer connected to a Pentair Variable Speed Pump. The pump has a control panel that says "running on schedule". It looks like its running on a set schedule programmed with the control panel.
I'm wondering why there is a intermatic timer connected to it. I opened the box and I see there is no "off" position, and the intermatic timer is actually set to always on. I assume I can disconnect this thing and connect the pump directly to the breaker?
See image below.
[img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_4010_e49ecd80f5a9c7cb93dc6cd555ee4a3fc1a883c6.jpg[/img]
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04-25-23, 08:16 AM
