This product has 3 (orange) seals/gaskets near the electrical connections ... Water and Electricity don't mix so this leak is causing the GFI breaker to trip ... all attempts to contact the manufacturer Therm-Product failed due to their broken contact page ... the Heater is rated for 22.9 A at 220 Volts which by ohms law means the element should measure around 10 ohms ... element measures 10.9 ohms ... in Canada, a replacement heater is $500+ which is hard to take for something that should IMHO be repairable
Newer heater products have redesigned the method of interfacing the heater element ... but ... moving to a different heater would require a major rework of the plumbing
Does anyone know of a liquid gasket product (possibly used in the Automotive world) that might be usable with these existing gaskets? Would need to be flexible, heat-resistant, and not eat the existing gasket material
The element gaskets appear to be fine, the main 1" pipe gasket is the one that really needs to be replaced/repaired
Pete ... no that isn't the heater (I believe that is the heater Jacuzzi is using now) ... the one I have is the J-shaped 1" diam heater ... I actually tried the Permatex Red RTV ... my initial application failed within 5 minutes of turning on the heater and pumps ... after taking it apart, this wasn't a failure with RTV rather it was that the main seal broke during reassembly ... with my second attempt I liberally coated the broken seal AND every possible escape route with RTV on the business end of the heater PLUS let the RTV cure for 48 hours ... the RTV once curred is indistinguishable from the gasket material and did bond to the existing Gaskets which I reused (even the broken one) ... now in process of reheating a freshly filled tub ... fingers crossed
update: 1st 12 hours so far tub has heated to full temp with no leaks (touch wood) ... the repair isn't pretty but I will accept this as a $500 in my pocket win (less $12 for the RTV Red) ... the solution involved liberally spreading RTV on all the inner surfaces, the Rubber seals, ALL surfaces that sandwich the seals, PLUS the Pipe entry and exit from the plastic housing. After letting the initial application set for 24 hours I then applied a liberal amount of rtv on all plastic plate joints ... let that cure again for another 24 hours ... if this leaks now I doubt I will be able to do much more.
Pete in answer to your question ... the Main Seal (the large one in the first post) was leaking ... the black case has 4 screws that expose the inner housing which has the heater terminals and a Hi-temp Cuttoff switch ... the pipe is held in place with a compression sandwich of 2 plastic plates held together with 4 3" long screws ... the seal appears to have suffered chemical damage ... at one point we were using the floating chlorine puck treatment ... ... never again as this destroyed the impeller on our main pump, along with the tub cover ... our water supplier has since installed a mega-million dollar treatment plant which has reduced our need to use huge amounts of chems to keep our pool clean ... I hit it now with a couple tablespoons of Pool grade Chlorine after each use and that has worked for well now for over 4 years replacing the water once every 6 months.
My hot tub's breaker would trip everytime I switched it to the on position. Through process of elimination I determined that the heating element was bad. I bought a complete new Balboa heater assembly with element plus sensors and installed it. I turned on the breaker, no trip, and checked the top side control. The control showed the actual water temp and the temp the tub is set at. I turned on the pump and both speeds work perfect. Here's the problem, the heater light doesn't come on at the topside control and there's no power going to the heater. I doublechecked all of my connections and everything is connected correctly. Have I overlooked something or is there a reset that I didn't find? My tub is an old Shoreline single pump with a Balboa 58121 heater and Balboa VS500Z circuit board. Read More
Okay so I'm a beginner and I am doing all of this on my own, but I'm a quick learner and I DO NOT QUIT so please bare with me and help me out! :) I can't seem to find a YouTube video or answer on google on my own so I'm finally breaking down and asking for help, which I rarely bother other people for help...
Okay so I've managed to fix all the leaks and was enjoying my hot tub when I got the 3 blinking light error and it stopped heating up so I read up and realized it was either the Tecmark Pressure Switch or the Gecko High Limit Probe/Temperature Sensor - 9920-100150. At first I think it was just the Pressure switch because I could pull the wires off, flip the breaker and reset it and enjoy the hot tub again for a few hours before it would "trip" again. Unfortunately there was a small drip leak on the underside of the heater tube by the ground which I also learned doesn't tickle when you touch it (so yes now I kill the breaker before I do anything). Like I said, I've learned A LOT, unfortunately the hard way! :) But I am DETERMINED to fix this thing!! It is my PEACE!!
SO I've replaced the Tecmark Pressure switch, the bad news is that water drip made the Gecko High Limit Probe/Temperature Switch get wet and disconnect itself from the silver heater tub and then it slide out of the actual part where it's connected to the motherboard which this unit is older so it was soldered onto the mother board, the new replacement parts are all just clip on's... so I need to know is there a way to bypass this completely? I've watched other YouTube videos of other brands where they bypass the high limit temperature switch because some people want it to go over 104, so I feel like there has to be a way to bypass this rather than me having to buy an entire new board or is there somewhere that sells OLD parts that are no longer manufactured? I need part number Gecko High Limit Probe/Temperature Sensor - 9920-100150. Which they say no longer exists, they do however show something that has a similar connector but is on a wire and probe ending but not a sticker, so I'm not sure how that would work?
Any advice is greatly appreciated, I'm doing all this myself and I've worked hard, I've rebuilt the entire motor, all new seals, impeller, fixed all the leaks in the pipes, and replaced the Tecmark Pressure Switch, I feel like I'm down to the last piece and I just want to bypass it.
When I turn the hot tub on everything works fine it flows, but the red light on the mother board is light up and the 3 lights are still blinking on the panel so it's not going to heat up after replacing the Tecmark Pressure Switch. :( So I need a way to bypass this Gecko High Limit Probe/Temperature Sensor - 9920-100150 that is no longer manufactured PLEASEEEE someone give me some guidance!?Read More