Lock stuck - latch won't retract

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  #41  
Old 10-10-13, 09:34 PM
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@global:Thank you for the explanation, I've not seen the Cisa mortise version before, and assumed the photo was of a mechanical lock because I could not see any wire leads or terminals which, presumably must be present on the back side or otherwise hidden from view. (I am familiar with the massive rim version Cisa electric that used a pull-lever to retract the latch, as well as a later model rim type that used a push button on the inner face to release the latch, perhaps the same principle as this mortise version. It was about 35 years ago, but I seem to remember a big plastic anti-friction wheel as part of the center "activating" latch, to ease closing the door)

If Brainii's lock is indeed like the photo, the activating latch is quite small; presuming this latch must be depressed at least 75% of it's throw in order to cause (when triggered) the main latch to retract fully (flush with the faceplate) it would seem that, especially in a double-door application, where expansion & contraction would cause a considerable change in the gap/clearance between the doors, that the acceptable operating tolerance of this design would be exceeded.

In other words, the difference between the gap being too little (doors rubbing each other) and too much (activating latch not depressed enough to allow sufficient main-latch retraction) may be less than the actual door movement from one climate extreme to the other.
 
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  #42  
Old 10-10-13, 09:55 PM
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At any rate, other than installing a different type lock with greater operating tolerance, I suppose one might wait for the seasonal "moderate" climate (between the extreme hot & cold temps), make the necessary lock adjustments for the "sweet spot" allowing for equal amounts of expansion & contraction, then re-finish the door with a weather resistant paint.

Here in North-Central Texas, our problem is more moisture-related than temperature; the high-clay content of our soils expands & contracts with the rain/no rain months, and unless we keep the foundation soil moist with soaker-hoses during dry spells (or you have a rock-solid concrete slab foundation) you get door frame mis-alignment problems. Any temp extremes can make it worse, that's why storm doors sure do help.
 
  #43  
Old 10-13-13, 04:36 PM
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A different solution to a jammed lock

First I'd like to say thanks to all those who posted about their stuck locks and how to fix them. It gave me a great head start on my doorknob with an identical problem. As I was psyching myself up to cut the latch with a hack saw (ugh), I came up with another solution. You'll need a coat hanger, wire cutters, hammer and scrap of wood.

1. Unwrap and cut off the curly end of a coat hanger.
2. Curl the hanger wire into a 6" or so semi-circle.
3. Slip the wire around behind the latch (the side of the latch with the angle) and back out below the latch toward you.
4. Wrap the wire securely into a 3" or so circle.
5. Place the scrap of wood against the door trim to protect it, and use the claw of the hammer to pry the coat hanger circle toward you (like pulling a nail). Since the hanger is pulling against the angled side of the latch, it should temporarily push the latch out of the slot. (Pull lightly on the door as you pry or the latch may fall back in the slot.)

A tip of the hat to Lowes, who gave me a replacement internal mechanism even though I bought the doorknob there 5 years ago and did not have the receipt. I replaced the mechanism and now I'm back to having a working door!
 
  #44  
Old 10-13-13, 07:05 PM
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In a residential setting, this trick will work easily as you described in about half the cases encountered, because about half the time the deadlocking component of the latch is either broken/inoperative and/or the strike plate alignment has changed and/or was never installed correctly to begin with, rendering this security feature useless. This malfunction is of no consequence where a separate deadbolt is always used to lock the door, but if you depend entirely on the spring-latch for your security, remember, it can be slipped open from the other side almost as easily with a flexible card or the like. A properly aligned locking spring-latch ("deadlatch") will give you a LITTLE bit more security, requiring a little force to pop open a locked door. (In a commercial setting with a Grade 1 lock & metal frame, the deadlatch will offer considerably more security).
 
  #45  
Old 10-26-13, 08:09 PM
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the solution presented (2 posts) above can be an alternative. However we have suggested similar solutions many times here in different threads.

Wedging the edge of the door, often will spread the door from the jamb edge enough to slip/loid the latch mechanism.

If the deadlatching pin extends when you wedge the door, the latch will not be impeded and will slip easily.

You could use a hooked awl like pictured in this link http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA280_.jpg
 
  #46  
Old 11-15-13, 12:50 PM
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I want to let you know: This thread that started 7 years ago is still coming in handy! I just found myself in the same situation, and a search engine brought me here. Combinations of various ideas posted here (specifically, taking out the hinge pins to give more play, using wedges to increase space between the door and the frame, and prying the latch back into the door with a screwdriver) saved me a call to a locksmith and however much money that would have cost me. Thanks, everyone who has contributed to this thread over the years!
 
  #47  
Old 12-08-13, 12:14 PM
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Gatehouse brand door latch won't retract

Hello all. I was hoping someone could help me with my stuck door latch.
I have a Gatehouse brand exterior door knob w/lock and the latch will not retract. The door is open, but can't be closed because the latch will not budge.
I can't figure out how to remove it in order to replace the door knob and lock. I removed the interior handle and figured out how to remove the exterior handle (thanks to this message board!!). But I don't know how you get the trim off, or how to remove the spindle or latch. Everything is securely in place. I guess that's good for safety's sake, but not so good when the lock isn't working and needs to be replaced.
I've attached a few pictures - the interior door knob (minus the knob), the exterior door knob (also minus the knob) and a plan view of the exterior spindle. Any advice. I really would like to do this myself. Thank you!
 
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  #48  
Old 12-08-13, 07:05 PM
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The INSIDE trim rose typically snaps on & off. Look carefully all the way around the circumference along the edge that's up against the door...often there will be a small slot for the purpose of using a flat-blade screwdriver, wood chisel or similar, to pry the rose off. Sometimes a small spring-loaded pin, or clip will be evident.
No slot, pin or clip? Use a sharp wood chisel with a thin scrap of cardboard between it & the door (to protect the door finish) & work the edge under the rose so you can pry it off.

The 2 tie screws are under the rose.
 
  #49  
Old 12-08-13, 07:18 PM
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One other possibility if no slot, pin or clip: Tho not likely on a grade 3 residential lock, it only takes 3 seconds to try...grasp the rose firmly with both hands & try to "unscrew" it (CCW); if it loosens, it will rotate about 20 -40 degrees then stop, then slip straight off.
 
  #50  
Old 12-11-13, 07:20 PM
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It worked!! I simply turned it and it pulled right off. Thank you!!!
 
  #51  
Old 12-12-13, 05:43 PM
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You're welcome! If you're still with us, I'd recommend a Grade 2 replacement lockset if you plan to use this door daily, & it appears you have a 2-3/4" backset door prep, (commercial) so measure to confirm, or be sure the replacement lock will adapt to 2-3/8" or 2-3/4" backset, so you're covered either way.

Don't expect improved security with a better grade entry lock however; that's what deadbolts are for.
 
  #52  
Old 12-13-13, 09:06 AM
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rstripe......we talked about Meroni locks remember? They are far superior entrance sets (because the knob versions have nothing to twist or turn). Deadbolts are still the best form of "cheap" security, but quality handlesets like Meroni are sensational looking, very secure and able to be used by arthritically challenged more easily than conventional entry sets.
 
  #53  
Old 12-13-13, 07:38 PM
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@ Global: Have the Meroni patents expired by now? I was browsing a surplus hardware store the other day and saw a line of new blister-packed cylindrical locks with the same principle of operation; ie. push, pull or turn the lever or knob. Don't remember the brand name (new to me anyway) but they were made in Taiwan. Mechanically cheap, but very nice finish & heavy, solid levers, Grade 2, & came with both backset latches. I'll get the brand if you're curious. They had passage, privacy & entry sets in 626, 605 & 613 finishes.
 
  #54  
Old 05-09-14, 08:06 AM
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Lessons Learned

I just found this thread after the fact, but I'm pleased to see so many suggestions. I've just finished taking an exterior lock/knob assembly completely out of a door and re-installing it without any instructions or good idea of what to do! The knob had been acting up for a few days, first it wouldn't turn one way, then it refused to turn at all. Thank goodness we had another exit! Along the way I learned a couple of things.
-The door I thought was metal, isn't. Wooden with a metal plating over top.
-If you install your own entry system, ALWAYS keep the paperwork that comes with it, no matter what! (I didn't have that)
-Patience is key. If you can afford the time, take it, and many deep breaths.
-DO NOT always go for the cheapest. Someone on here advised to get a Grade two. You get what you pay for.
Sometimes getting a book from the library is helpful before you need it.
You just never know what might break next.
 
  #55  
Old 05-10-14, 11:36 AM
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well said...."Paying peanuts, gets you monkeys"
 
  #56  
Old 06-02-15, 11:01 AM
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Door latch deadlocked and in closed position

Thanks for all the suggestions, what a pain, I tried to take the door off the hinges, but one pin would not budge, I was about to head to Home Depot for a mini hacksaw, when I grabbed my reciprocrating saw, switched the blade, sawed right through the latch and the door popped open. The blade caught once, but it worked.
 
  #57  
Old 06-02-15, 02:41 PM
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@rstripe

Youre talking about the Brinks Push Pull turn lock on sale at the big box. It's not the same patent. but essentially a similar idea but way cheaper quality.
 
  #58  
Old 06-06-15, 12:58 PM
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That's the brand they're marketed under here. Cheap Grade 2. Fine for resi bedroom/bathroom, not for heavy entrance use.
 
  #59  
Old 06-06-15, 01:48 PM
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Lots of great advice. I can see by the page views and the linkbacks that this problem has affected many people but all good things must come to an end. This thread is starting to drift and has gotten too long. It will be sent back to our searchable archives where it will always be available for reference.

If you have further questions or need help.... please feel free to start a new thread.
 
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