Door Lock Sticks

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  #1  
Old 12-29-08, 09:25 AM
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Door Lock Sticks

hi,

I stick the key into the door lock and have to try and turn for 3 or 4 minutes. sometimes I try and push the door lock and then turn the key. you can see the pictures from here link to images below. number 1 and 2 shows the lock is sticking out, there is a gasket that is not flush with the door i think. picture three shows me pushing the lock. maybe the lock sticks out a few mm not sure. when I put the key in the lock I have the problem with the door lock sticking whether the door is closed or open. i tried putting some graphite in there, i used sand paper took a pencil and shaved some graphite then blew it into the lock, on the key. i have not bought the graphite power from the locksmith yet that is in a tube and you can squeeze it into the lock, maybe that will be better but I still think the lock sticking out is the problem. this is the original door lock from I think 1955 so replacing the thing maybe cost $700 and well If I have to spend a $200 I may think about getting a new door and new lock not sure.

any advice would be great.


Index of /lock
 
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  #2  
Old 12-29-08, 06:30 PM
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It looks like it needs to be rebuilt, a locksmith will generally replace the cylinder (the part sticking out) for about $60 plus service call (about $50) depending where you live.

If you're at all inclined you can remove it and bring it to them to save the service call. Just make sure they are expecting you, the locksmith may not be in otherwise.

If you feel moderately confident I would suggest you take pictures as you proceed and keep the screws in order, most of all, go slowly if this is new to you, when you remove a component try to see how it fits, if there were any indexing pins or registration marks. worst case scenario is you will have to get the locksmith to come out to re-install it. No harm no foul.

Good luck!
 
  #3  
Old 12-30-08, 06:28 PM
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You have an old mortise lock. Are you having problems turning the key or does the key work good and are having trouble turning the deadbolt? It is normal for the mortise cylinder to protrude like that. Different trim collars are available also.

The mortise cylinder where the key enters can be removed (or the depth adjusted) by loosening the set screw closest to it above the bolt on the edge of the door. Turn ccw to remove. These can be replaced cheaply with a generic or easily rekeyed.

If you are having trouble turning the bolt, there could be wear and tear, a broken spring or the lubrication has dried out. Sometimes pushing the latch in and spraying inside the lock with something like Tri-flow will do the trick. Spray in the cylinder hole if removed also.

If this does not work-disassembly is recommended. This is a good solid lock and most likely just needs some maintenance.
 
  #4  
Old 12-31-08, 12:57 AM
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That "gasket" you refer to....is a spring tensioner...usually applied to a cylinder that is slightly too long. If you can get another collar ring...this will solve the dilemna I think.

If the cylinder is too long for the correct operation, the extensioned collar will allow the cylinder to sit correctly. I would suggest that the cylinder needs to be srewed in one more turn 360 cw.
 
  #5  
Old 01-17-09, 08:04 PM
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Your excellent photos show what would almost be considered an antique, but well-made American mortise lock by a once-formidable company and well worth preserving with a little TLC.
As indicated in previous post, loosen the set screw in the lock edge, opposite the key cylinder (about (3) turns) and unscrew it from the lock. You may need to use a channel-lock pliers (with a bit of rag to prevent gouging) to begin to unscrew it.
With cylinder in hand, do you still have trouble turning the key? If yes, take it to a locksmith and, if you have what appears to be the original key and/or you'd like to keep this key (maybe it fits other locks) ask the man to re-pin the cylinder so your key works it properly. If you'd like to re-key it to a new key, he can do that also, either way for around $10.
Squirt some WD-40 into the cylinder hole before re-installing the cylinder---Note: the gap between the cylinder flange and the door is usually of no mechanical concern; screw the cylinder back in as far as it will go, then back it off a full turn, then continue just enough to orient the cylinder with the key "teeth-up" and engage the set screw. You may need to unscrew the cylinder another turn or 2 before the key operates the lock smoothly.
 
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