removal help

Reply

  #1  
Old 01-19-10, 03:07 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,548
removal help

I'd like to remove this Schlage "D Series" lockset from this door so I can replace it temporarily into another door like this where the same type of lockset is broken on the inside and not working. I got this far, as shown in these photos where I've loosened these two mounting screws but still the unit will not budge. http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...1/IMG_1304.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...1/IMG_1303.jpg
How do I get this lockset off? What step(s) here do I need to do next to get it removed?
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 01-20-10, 02:09 AM
GlobalLocky's Avatar
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 925
Originally Posted by sgull View Post
I'd like to remove this Schlage "D Series" lockset from this door so I can replace it temporarily into another door like this where the same type of lockset is broken on the inside and not working. I got this far, as shown in these photos where I've loosened these two mounting screws but still the unit will not budge. http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...1/IMG_1304.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...1/IMG_1303.jpg
How do I get this lockset off? What step(s) here do I need to do next to get it removed?

On the inside of the unit, there is a nut (about 1" dia) around the throat of the lock. You need to unscrew it to remove the unit.

In pic 2 the nut is visible as the brass colored piece with 4 tabs sticking up.
 
  #3  
Old 01-20-10, 08:28 AM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,548
Originally Posted by GlobalLocky View Post
On the inside of the unit, there is a nut (about 1" dia) around the throat of the lock. You need to unscrew it to remove the unit. In pic 2 the nut is visible as the brass colored piece with 4 tabs sticking up.
It looks as if I might need a special tool to remove/install that part, maybe a special spanner wrench? I did try to get it to turn a little by tapping on one of the tabs with a screwdriver and hammmer, but it didn't seem to want to go, and I didn't want to be banging it up too hard so I stopped. Can you suggest a method to turn the nut without any 'special' tool? Or, if I absolutely would need the special tool what it is and how I might acquire one? Thank you.
 
  #4  
Old 01-20-10, 01:16 PM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,168
There is a special tool, but you don't need it. That ring nut is serrated making it hard to loosen, but if you will first re-install the 2 long screws and tighten them up, it will relieve the pressure on that ring nut so it can be easily unscrewed with a poke tool such as a small flat blade screwdriver.

To re-install lock, first tighten the long screws, then run the ring nut up as far as you can, and finally, loosen the long screws just a bit so that some pressure will be restored against the ring, keeping it from loosening while in service.
 
  #5  
Old 01-20-10, 01:39 PM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,168
In reading Global's reply, I might add to his description of the locking ring to make sure you identify it correctly: The brass-like tabs sticking UP (or away from the door) are the spring cage tabs, if I recall, (I don't have one in front of me). The locking ring in question is inset a little deeper, snug around the spindle, but still visible in your photo, and has 4 SLOTS spaced evenly around it's circumference.
 
  #6  
Old 01-20-10, 02:23 PM
GlobalLocky's Avatar
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 925
They usually supply the socket in each box, but just use a pair of vise grips or channel pliers. You should be able to tap the nut a few times with a blade screwdriver and hammer, enough to get it started.
 
  #7  
Old 01-20-10, 03:35 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,548
Originally Posted by rstripe View Post
In reading Global's reply, I might add to his description of the locking ring to make sure you identify it correctly: The brass-like tabs sticking UP (or away from the door) are the spring cage tabs, if I recall, (I don't have one in front of me). The locking ring in question is inset a little deeper, snug around the spindle, but still visible in your photo, and has 4 SLOTS spaced evenly around it's circumference.
Yes, thanks for clarifying that. I was better able to identify the locking ring with the slots (I was getting a little confused before that), and by following your suggested method was able to get it to turn, unscrew it all the way, and take the lockset out. I replaced it in the other door after removing the "damaged" lockset in that one.
Here's a few (rather blurry) pictures of what I found in the bad one.
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...1/IMG_1305.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...IMG_1306-1.jpg

In pic 1 it seems the the little latch tail tangs or whatever they're called are bent out, compared to the good one, I noticed. And in pic 2 it seems the latch tail slide business is out of whack, off center somehow, also I noticed compared to the good one.
 
  #8  
Old 01-20-10, 03:47 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,548
Originally Posted by GlobalLocky View Post
They usually supply the socket in each box, but just use a pair of vise grips or channel pliers. You should be able to tap the nut a few times with a blade screwdriver and hammer, enough to get it started.
We have a lot of these type of locksets at my workplace that are getting old and cranky. I wouldn't mind having the special tool needed to make removing/installing these a little easier. Does the socket you mention look like the bottom item shown in the picture on the first listing here? schlage spanner, Business Industrial, Home Garden. Great deals on eBay!
 
  #9  
Old 01-20-10, 05:30 PM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,168
That spanner tool in not what you need---the tool resembles a thin-walled pipe, about 3-1/2" long, and closed at one end.
The business end is open, so you can slip it over the spindle, and has 4 "tits" that engage the 4 slots in the ring.

Since they were supplied with every new "D" lock years ago, (before the re-design to the "ND"), the tools would accumulate at locksmith shops, and then most were tossed. Call a few shops in your area, they'll prob'ly just give you one.
 
  #10  
Old 01-20-10, 05:55 PM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,168
The damage to your lock is not normal wear & tear...the cause is likely one of the following:

1) Improper installation (common)---if the guide slots on the latch don't engage the lock jaws properly, the latch travel will bottom out before the lever does, putting undue strain on the "T" linkage

2) Latch binding in the strike plate, (also common, usually due to a slammed door, or other reason) thereby requiring undue force to open the door.

3) Using the wrong latch type for the lock type. (uncommon),
which results in the same as #1 above.

#2 can be solved by adjusting your door closer to prevent slamming, and/or filing the strike plate to allow proper play.
 
  #11  
Old 01-20-10, 08:15 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,548
Okay! Thanks for sharing all the helpful info. Much appreciated.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
'