how to remove Schlage deadbolt
#1
how to remove Schlage deadbolt
hello, I need to remove a Schlage double-cylinder deadbolt from our front door. Problem is, there is no visible way to remove it.
To describe the lock:
1. If it is original to the house it is a circa 1983 lock.
2. On each side it has a face with a keyhole, and a "ring" around the outside of the face. The keyhole is in a circular inset in the face.
3. The inside of the door also has what appear to be the "heads" of a couple nails, but no sign of screws.
4. The plate where the bolt comes out has a couple screws.
I have tried:
1. loosening the screws where the bolt comes out. The bolt and the plate seem to be attached to each other (at least the plate doesn't come off even after the screws are removed), so I can't see beyond that.
2. per someone's suggestion, turning the outer "ring" around the faceplate to loosen it like a jar. I can turn it endlessly without anything loosening.
If anyone can tell me how to remove the deadbolt it would be much appreciated. thx.
To describe the lock:
1. If it is original to the house it is a circa 1983 lock.
2. On each side it has a face with a keyhole, and a "ring" around the outside of the face. The keyhole is in a circular inset in the face.
3. The inside of the door also has what appear to be the "heads" of a couple nails, but no sign of screws.
4. The plate where the bolt comes out has a couple screws.
I have tried:
1. loosening the screws where the bolt comes out. The bolt and the plate seem to be attached to each other (at least the plate doesn't come off even after the screws are removed), so I can't see beyond that.
2. per someone's suggestion, turning the outer "ring" around the faceplate to loosen it like a jar. I can turn it endlessly without anything loosening.
If anyone can tell me how to remove the deadbolt it would be much appreciated. thx.
#2
Originally Posted by BrianMu
hello, I need to remove a Schlage double-cylinder deadbolt from our front door. Problem is, there is no visible way to remove it.
To describe the lock:
1. If it is original to the house it is a circa 1983 lock.
2. On each side it has a face with a keyhole, and a "ring" around the outside of the face. The keyhole is in a circular inset in the face.
3. The inside of the door also has what appear to be the "heads" of a couple nails, but no sign of screws.
4. The plate where the bolt comes out has a couple screws.
I have tried:
1. loosening the screws where the bolt comes out. The bolt and the plate seem to be attached to each other (at least the plate doesn't come off even after the screws are removed), so I can't see beyond that.
2. per someone's suggestion, turning the outer "ring" around the faceplate to loosen it like a jar. I can turn it endlessly without anything loosening.
If anyone can tell me how to remove the deadbolt it would be much appreciated. thx.
To describe the lock:
1. If it is original to the house it is a circa 1983 lock.
2. On each side it has a face with a keyhole, and a "ring" around the outside of the face. The keyhole is in a circular inset in the face.
3. The inside of the door also has what appear to be the "heads" of a couple nails, but no sign of screws.
4. The plate where the bolt comes out has a couple screws.
I have tried:
1. loosening the screws where the bolt comes out. The bolt and the plate seem to be attached to each other (at least the plate doesn't come off even after the screws are removed), so I can't see beyond that.
2. per someone's suggestion, turning the outer "ring" around the faceplate to loosen it like a jar. I can turn it endlessly without anything loosening.
If anyone can tell me how to remove the deadbolt it would be much appreciated. thx.
cuedude
#3
well, I worked for over an hour trying to those things off to no avail. I can't even get the edge of a little screwdriver behind them, and it just bent the corner of a little knife blade (which I could only get behind one tiny spot on one of them). I am thinking I should try to drill through them and make a hole to take them out somehow? Lemme know what you think might be advisable.
btw, the reason for doing this is because the key works from the inside of the door to move the deadbolt but for some reason doesn't work to move the deadbolt from the outside. Actually it can move it slightly, but you have to fiddle and turn the key round and round and sometimes it works. I don't know if in the end that means I'd have to replace the thing anyhow.
help, we are supposed to put our house on the market for sale today!
btw, the reason for doing this is because the key works from the inside of the door to move the deadbolt but for some reason doesn't work to move the deadbolt from the outside. Actually it can move it slightly, but you have to fiddle and turn the key round and round and sometimes it works. I don't know if in the end that means I'd have to replace the thing anyhow.
help, we are supposed to put our house on the market for sale today!
#4
to update anyone who is following the thread, we did get the lock off. We drilled through the cap pieces (being careful not to hit the sides which fit an allen wrench), and then screwed the lock off with an allen wrench. Turns out there was a small piece of metal that hooked to the outside lock (and turned the mechanism) that had come loose. We were able to put that back together and now the lock works great.
#6
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Actually, I have a related issue....
I have a Lori Deadbolt that doesn;t even have the little "nail" hole things. The outside and the inside both have smooth cover rings on the cylinders that display no screws or anything. I have tried simply prying one off (up to the point where I feel like I wil be marring the door) and nothing gives.
How does one take these things off?
Thanx
How does one take these things off?
Thanx
#7
Originally Posted by spot512
I have a Lori Deadbolt that doesn;t even have the little "nail" hole things. The outside and the inside both have smooth cover rings on the cylinders that display no screws or anything. I have tried simply prying one off (up to the point where I feel like I wil be marring the door) and nothing gives.
How does one take these things off?
Thanx
How does one take these things off?
Thanx
http://experts.about.com/q/Locksmithing-3110/Locksmithing-LORI-Deadbolt-Removal.htm
#8
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Excellent....
I have been lucklessly searching the internet for advice like this. Thank you so much for the link. The minute I get home, I will check it out and post the followup.
Thanx again, GL!
Thanx again, GL!
#10
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Kwikset lock
I'm having a similar problem with a Kwikset lock. I don't think the lock is very old, it looks just like their current locks, but there's no helpful information on their website. It's not a double-key lock, there's a thumb turn on the inside. But other than the screws by the bolt (on the door edge), there are no visible screws or holes at all. Help!!
#11
Newer Kwikset deadbolts like the Ultramax Titan are held on by visible philips screws that hold the inner plate on. Removing these screws will show two cone type screws (like hollow bolts that are threaded) which need to be unscrewed with a blade screwdriver to get the mechanism off.
Sometimes, on certain brands (other than kwikset I think) once you remove the cover plate on the edge of the door, there is sometimes another allen screw or embedded screw that needs to be removed to remove the inner turnbutton.
Not sure if this helps.
Sometimes, on certain brands (other than kwikset I think) once you remove the cover plate on the edge of the door, there is sometimes another allen screw or embedded screw that needs to be removed to remove the inner turnbutton.
Not sure if this helps.
#12
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Hi Brainmu, Welcome to the board. What you have is typical Schlage "updating" of their locks. (Actually it's to hide the screws from sight). On the inside, where the 2 nail looking things are, those are actually little plugs that fit into allen type sockets in the securing screws. They are removable, just not so easy to do. I use a little flatblade screw driver. Working from nearest the Keyhole, pry the little plugs out of the screw heads. Once those are out, it's a simple job. Be carefull not to scratch the face plate of the lock, as slips are easy. I also recommend not putting the little plugs back in if you plan on doing the job again in the future. Post back and let us know how it worked out for you.
cuedude
cuedude
What next? Do I turn the whole assembly counter-clockwise to loosen it? If so, I can do this with a big set of channel-lock pliers. I don't want to apply that kind of torque if I'm going to break the lock, though, so I'll wait to hear before I go ahead and do this.
Thanks for the help!
#13
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cmart once the plugs are removed you should see the screw heads... once the screws are removed the lock should fall into your hands. If you try turning it out with channel locks all you will be doing is destroying the lock.
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Is it an Allen (hex) wrench to remove?
#17
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Bash em hard!
I agree these Schlage locks are one of the worst designs ever! I had some luck first using WD40 and then hammering the 'nail heads' from the side with a small flathead screwdriver and a hammer. Once they start turning, just keep turning and the screws (with the nail head) will come out. A needlenose pliers is good to use once they turn. May take some time, but eventually both of my deadbolts came out. Good luck!
#18
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Schlage Deadbolr combo rekey
Greetings:
Need some help on an industrial Schlage deadbold - handle combo. This unit has a deadbolt with a key in front and the back is a lever that can can be set to lock both deadbold and the lower handle locks. There are actually to holes on the door, one for the deadbold and one for the lower handle. I say that they are one unit because the deadbolt lock seems to work in conjuction with the lower handle and depending on the setting of the lever of the deabbolt inside, the handle will locked or unlocked.
I need to get locks out so I can have them rekeyed at HD. I will buy installing 2 additional deadbold for 2 other doors and I want HD to rekey all the units so I end up with just one set of keys.
Pleasea advise.
PS, I have pictures of the deadbolt comboi but I do not think I can paste or attached it here.
Nolan
Need some help on an industrial Schlage deadbold - handle combo. This unit has a deadbolt with a key in front and the back is a lever that can can be set to lock both deadbold and the lower handle locks. There are actually to holes on the door, one for the deadbold and one for the lower handle. I say that they are one unit because the deadbolt lock seems to work in conjuction with the lower handle and depending on the setting of the lever of the deabbolt inside, the handle will locked or unlocked.
I need to get locks out so I can have them rekeyed at HD. I will buy installing 2 additional deadbold for 2 other doors and I want HD to rekey all the units so I end up with just one set of keys.
Pleasea advise.
PS, I have pictures of the deadbolt comboi but I do not think I can paste or attached it here.
Nolan
#19
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Schlage makes (2) types of deadbolt/latch combo locks in which operating the inside lever opens both the latch and deadbolt at the same time. One is residential and one is commercial/industrial, and it sounds as though you have the latter. To verify, look on the door edge: is there one long (8")
plate with holes for the latch & deadbolt? If yes, & you want to remove the cylinder for re-keying, remove the edge plate
& look for a hole in the edge of the lock opposite the key cylinder--just inside the hole is a set screw that needs to be loosened about (3) turns, and you can unscrew the cylinder.
plate with holes for the latch & deadbolt? If yes, & you want to remove the cylinder for re-keying, remove the edge plate
& look for a hole in the edge of the lock opposite the key cylinder--just inside the hole is a set screw that needs to be loosened about (3) turns, and you can unscrew the cylinder.
#20
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Just call up schlage
Alright guys, in my experiance with schlage locks they offer great customer service, so if you are stuck with a lock all you need to do is pick up a phone and call them at 1.800.847.1864 they will guide you
#21
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I'm glad that I found this thread, I too have issues with an old Schlage lock that had those two slugs on the inside face. I was able to pry one out but had to drill the other out. What a design...
Anyway, the issue is that turning the inside key does not move the deadbolt. Now that I have it apart, I can see that the head of the driver bar for the inside key has been twisted off (is driver bar the correct term?). Is it possible to purchase replacements for these? If so, can anyone help me out with the correct term/name for this part.
Or... should I replace the lock, how hard would it be to replace the lock cylinders (swap the old cylinder into a new lock to preserve the key)? I see that there is a knurled brass knob at the end of the cylinder, if I remove that does the cylinder come out cleanly, or do little pieces fly everywhere?
Great site, I'm glad that I found it!
Anyway, the issue is that turning the inside key does not move the deadbolt. Now that I have it apart, I can see that the head of the driver bar for the inside key has been twisted off (is driver bar the correct term?). Is it possible to purchase replacements for these? If so, can anyone help me out with the correct term/name for this part.
Or... should I replace the lock, how hard would it be to replace the lock cylinders (swap the old cylinder into a new lock to preserve the key)? I see that there is a knurled brass knob at the end of the cylinder, if I remove that does the cylinder come out cleanly, or do little pieces fly everywhere?
Great site, I'm glad that I found it!
#22
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OK, I see, that big screw holds the entire lock cylinder in place. So, will any Schlage cylinder fit any Schlage lock? In other words, if I get a new Schlage deadbolt, can I just drop the old cylinder in place?
#23
Your deadbolt is a B560. The Schlage tailpiece that you are referring to is specific for that model and not all Schlage cylinders are the same.
At your locksmith shop they will have replacement tailpieces, probably cost $2.
At your locksmith shop they will have replacement tailpieces, probably cost $2.
#24
aside from all this, you are using double cylinder locks, I presume on your primary entrance door?
You need to remove it and replace it with single cylinder only. Then you will comply with ADA, building codes and life safety codes.
If for any reason, your lock failed to be openable in an emergency situation, unless your home insurance policy specifically covers public liability it will cost you dearly, you are potentially responsible for a charge of murder if a person cannot get out of the locked door.
It's your decision, but any locksmith that knows the game will never recommend a double cylinder lock on a primary entrance.
You need to remove it and replace it with single cylinder only. Then you will comply with ADA, building codes and life safety codes.
If for any reason, your lock failed to be openable in an emergency situation, unless your home insurance policy specifically covers public liability it will cost you dearly, you are potentially responsible for a charge of murder if a person cannot get out of the locked door.
It's your decision, but any locksmith that knows the game will never recommend a double cylinder lock on a primary entrance.
#25
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First, I will echo GlogalLocky's caution about double-cylinder locks...tho good operating habits can mitigate the risk somewhat, nevertheless, not to the extent the safety that a single-cylinder unit would offer.
If you still want to repair the existing lock, I'd get more than a new tailpiece....the forces that it took to destroy the one tailpiece probably deformed the tailpiece retaining assembly as well.
If you still want to repair the existing lock, I'd get more than a new tailpiece....the forces that it took to destroy the one tailpiece probably deformed the tailpiece retaining assembly as well.
#26
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Most locksmiths have used Schlage cylinders...I'd take the whole thing to a smithy and get new (used/undamaged) tailpiece and end cap assy's...Pay particular attention to the new tailpiece lengths, as a too-long tailpiece may have been what caused your original failure... use a screwdriver to extend the bolt before assembling the 2 lock halves to ensure proper "timing" (tailpiece alignment). If the lock works fine while it's a bit loose on the door, but binds when tightened, the tailpieces are probably too long for your door thickness.
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Thanks for the help.
The double cylinder lock was not a primary door, but rather a kitchen door that let out to the back deck. At any rate, I replaced it with a single cylinder lock. I was able remove the end cap and tailpiece from the old lock, swap with the new, and preserve the original key.
Now my primary back door, that has a double cylinder lock. I should probably just ask a locksmith, but since I have your attention:
what am I looking at here? I'm not familiar with Haber locks, and I don't see any results from a google search. Can anyone suggest a single cylinder replacement for this lock?
The double cylinder lock was not a primary door, but rather a kitchen door that let out to the back deck. At any rate, I replaced it with a single cylinder lock. I was able remove the end cap and tailpiece from the old lock, swap with the new, and preserve the original key.
Now my primary back door, that has a double cylinder lock. I should probably just ask a locksmith, but since I have your attention:
what am I looking at here? I'm not familiar with Haber locks, and I don't see any results from a google search. Can anyone suggest a single cylinder replacement for this lock?
#28
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Loosen the set screw opposite the inner cylinder about 3 turns
and unscrew the cylinder...might need to loosen the top & bottom lock case screws a bit, then use channel lock pliers (gently) to get it started. Take the cylinder to your local smithy so as to match the cylinder length and cam. You need a "mortise thumbturn" and he may have a used one for a couple of bucks. It can be a little tricky to re-thread the cylinder back into the lock, but perservere! (If it's used, study the threads to make sure they are OK)
and unscrew the cylinder...might need to loosen the top & bottom lock case screws a bit, then use channel lock pliers (gently) to get it started. Take the cylinder to your local smithy so as to match the cylinder length and cam. You need a "mortise thumbturn" and he may have a used one for a couple of bucks. It can be a little tricky to re-thread the cylinder back into the lock, but perservere! (If it's used, study the threads to make sure they are OK)
#29
I agree completely with rstripe. But even if you get a thumbturn cylinder that is larger (longer), you can purchase spacer rings that will make the cylinder look better, if necessary.
Many companies simply embossed their name on hardware but used Schlage cylinders (and others), it is quite common.
Many companies simply embossed their name on hardware but used Schlage cylinders (and others), it is quite common.
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Schlage deadbolt - flush screw removal
For those of you who are getting stuck with removing the old flush screw/caps from your Schalge deadbolts. I found the following method fairly simple:
1) Spray screw caps with WD-40
2) Tap the deadbolt a few times with a hammer
3) Use a very small (glasses size) flathead screwdriver to pop the cap out. If it takes a little work, wedge the flathead screwdriver under a corner of the cap, and tap the lock with a hammer a few times to loosen.
Beer 4U2
1) Spray screw caps with WD-40
2) Tap the deadbolt a few times with a hammer
3) Use a very small (glasses size) flathead screwdriver to pop the cap out. If it takes a little work, wedge the flathead screwdriver under a corner of the cap, and tap the lock with a hammer a few times to loosen.
Beer 4U2
#35
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I guess we all have our favorite method of dealing with these caps.....I use 2 tiny screwdrivers, prying under opposite sides, no need for penetrant or tapping. But, hey, whatever works!