Skeletion Key locks

We recently moved into a reasonably large, old house which has every interior door fitted with skeleton keyed door handles. Only one key was found in the house, which appears to only work correctly in 1 of approximately 20 doors.

I've looked at a couple doors and all appear to be fully functional still. Any suggestions as to how I may find out what key shape, or serial number would work with each of the locks?

 

Why?

I grew up in a house that had the warded locks on every door (ten as I recall) and we only had a key for one closet. There was never any need or desire to lock any of the interior doors and there was always the possibility of locking one and NOT being able to unlock it.

But, if you must, I'd just buy a couple of the common universal (skeleton) keys available at most hardware stores and try them.

 

There are three doors for sure I would like to be able to lock.
I have two young boys (1 & 3) and being able to lock the closet with my gun cabinet inside would add an extra level of comfort (besides required existing legal requirements of locked cabinet and triger locks). I would also like to be able to lock the attic door or the stairway up to the third floor/attic (my 3yrs old likes to explore, and the attic is not a safe place for a 3yrs old).
Guests would probably like to be able to lock the bathroom door when it use, but a universal key would be fine for the bathrooms.

Looking for keys is really more of a child proofing then anything. We've tried those plastic child door knob covers, but with the old door knobs, my 3yrs old is not even slowed down.

 

Unfortunately, most of the old warded locks are susceptible to the common "skeleton" key so they offer no security at all. You CAN remove the entire lockset by first removing the doorknobs, pulling the spindle and then removing the screws in the plate in the edge of the door and sliding the case of the lockset out. Take the entire case to a licensed locksmith and ask if he/she can either make a semi-secure key, re-fit the case to use a pin tumbler lock or sell you a new case with a more secure key.

I suspect that you want to retain the character of the old locks and I understand that but you will not have any security with them. Further, as I previously stated, if you were to lock the door and then the unlocking mechanism failed (not uncommon with old locks) you would be hard-pressed to open the door without severe damage.

The resident locksmiths who post here will probably have better information.

 

Not only do I want to retain the old character of the door handle/locks, but the doors would have to be probably replaced if I wanted to fit them with modern door handles/locks as the old system is a huge box inside the door itself.

As for the mechanics failing.... Been there, done that.
Used a metal coat hanger and some plyers to "pick" the one bathroom lock. No damage and a whole load of laughter (I was locked in the bathroom when the one proper key we do have got the internals hung up).

In the end, a common key would be fine as if my 3yrs old doesn't have one, he can't get in.

 

I would leave the locks if you had no intention of locking them. You intend to use them and I would replace with new pin tumbler locks instead for reliability and actual security. That said, I would use privacy knobs and not keyed entrance knobs in most of the situations you listed (maybe a keyed entrance on the closet).

If you're insistent on going with what you have, the hardware store should have skeleton keys or be able to order them for you.

 

depending on the brand of locks on your place, there are manufacturers that made versions with only 6 different keys and others who made about 43 different keys.
Union brand have about 3 different series with about 40 keys in each series.
Legge brand, have about 15 different keys in their range.
Lever type mortise locks (as these are referred), are often much more secure than common pin tumbler locks. These locks are bump proof and if there are 3 levers in some, they are somewhat difficult to pick.

In some instances you can modify the wards and create your own skeleton key.

Are there any identifying numbers on the key you have? If you remove one lock from a door, sometimes the key # is embossed (stamped) into the body above or next to the keyhole.

All mortise locks of this type DO NOT comply with building codes/life safety codes. Potentially you can lock someone in, which is an offence under the law.

 

I had a couple pics on my computer of the key and lock internals. Below is the key that came with the house. There is no markings and from what I can tell, this key only works in one door.



Below is the internals from one of the door locks. There is an "808" stamped on the inside of the casing and the door knob piece has the number 10 stamped into it. Other then these two numbers, there is nothing else marked on any of the pieces.

 

"Bit" type key blanks are still available, from which a locksmith can cut you a key.
(Find an older smithy that has been in business a long time).

Take him as many locks as you can spare, and if the rest of the locks are like the
picture, a single key can very likely be made to fit them all.

Take care when disassembling these locks, as the cast cases can be very brittle
and can break easily.

 

are you in Australia? that looks like an RB Davies lock. But it could also be an old lane 1000. lane 1000 had keys 1-6 in their range.

 

I'm in Canada. French River Ontario to be exact.
Don't think I mentioned it, but the house was an older 1930's nun convent.

 

I think it may be an old Corbin mortise lock. Either that or an old Yale & Towne. The "808" makes me think Yale.