Ent door gap latch won't secure striker plate
#1
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Ent door gap latch won't secure striker plate
Entrance door lock striker plate will not engage lockset latch. Is there an extended latch or do I need to somehow instal thicker strike plate/
Thank you
Thank you
#2
Hard to say. By "lockset latch" you are referring to the doorknob, right? Or are you referring to the "deadbolt"?
If it's the doorknob latch, you would have to look at the latch as you close the door in relation to the center of the strike plate. Is the latch too high? Too low? If the latch is centered on the strike plate, it would rule out those problems. Then it would be a matter of the door not pushing tight enough for the latch to drop into the strike plate hole. Or is the gap between the door and strike plate too wide?
If the latch seems too low, that's usually because the door has sagged. You would observe a larger gap on top of the door on the latch side than on the hinge side. Often this is because the installer did not replace one of the short hinge screws with a 3" screw that would go into the stud and prevent the door from sagging. So if that's the case you could check that out. You'd replace one screw on the TOP hinge only, and it would be one of the screws that is closest to the weatherstrip, not the ones closest to the hinge pin.
Let us know what the problem is and if you can't figure it out from the above we'll try again.
If it's the doorknob latch, you would have to look at the latch as you close the door in relation to the center of the strike plate. Is the latch too high? Too low? If the latch is centered on the strike plate, it would rule out those problems. Then it would be a matter of the door not pushing tight enough for the latch to drop into the strike plate hole. Or is the gap between the door and strike plate too wide?
If the latch seems too low, that's usually because the door has sagged. You would observe a larger gap on top of the door on the latch side than on the hinge side. Often this is because the installer did not replace one of the short hinge screws with a 3" screw that would go into the stud and prevent the door from sagging. So if that's the case you could check that out. You'd replace one screw on the TOP hinge only, and it would be one of the screws that is closest to the weatherstrip, not the ones closest to the hinge pin.
Let us know what the problem is and if you can't figure it out from the above we'll try again.
#3
I think the OP is saying his strike plate (and hence door frame) is too far from the plunger. It may take removing the interior case molding and shimming out the strike side of the door frame in order to bring it into line and capture the plunger.
Now if that is not the case, then follow XSleeper's advice on correcting the height adjustmant.
Now if that is not the case, then follow XSleeper's advice on correcting the height adjustmant.
#4
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If those don't answer your questions a pic or two should clarify things - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
btw - welcome to the forums phanfan1!
btw - welcome to the forums phanfan1!
#5
The standard "gap" in an entry door, between the door edge and the jamb edge is 1/8". Anything bigger indicates an incorrectly fitted door. As Xsleeper said, if the door has dropped, it could interfere with correct operation and installing a 3" screw in the top hinge, often is enough to pull the door into the correct position.
If your gap is still too large, sometimes putting some washers under the strike plate, will be enough to reduce that gap when door is closed, but it might look odd.
If your gap is still too large, sometimes putting some washers under the strike plate, will be enough to reduce that gap when door is closed, but it might look odd.
Last edited by GlobalLocky; 06-30-12 at 04:34 PM. Reason: spelling
#6
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they do make an extended latch and sell them at your local aco or ace.. or your big box store.. a pic on this one would really be nice.. it could be that the strike plate just needs to come forward or even morticed a bit back.. for a tighter fit sometimes ive installed 2 and even 3 strike plates to stop a credit card from going thru
#7
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The cheap fix would be to stop by your local smithy and obtain a couple of
commercial 4-7/8" (ANSI) strike plates....(don't pay more than a few bucks ea.
as smithys accumulate them and eventually toss them). Remove the small
residential plate & surface mount one or stack both ANSI plates in it's place.
Affix with suitably large screws.
If you're OK with brushed chrome finish, you may get them free of charge, the brass finishes are not as common.
Have not checked big box stores, some are starting to carry commercial grade stuff.
commercial 4-7/8" (ANSI) strike plates....(don't pay more than a few bucks ea.
as smithys accumulate them and eventually toss them). Remove the small
residential plate & surface mount one or stack both ANSI plates in it's place.
Affix with suitably large screws.
If you're OK with brushed chrome finish, you may get them free of charge, the brass finishes are not as common.
Have not checked big box stores, some are starting to carry commercial grade stuff.