How do I remove a MIWA double cylinder deadbolt?

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  #1  
Old 01-20-13, 08:20 AM
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How do I remove a MIWA double cylinder deadbolt?

This is an 80s era deadbolt using the MIWA EC magnetic keyway. I have found no obvious way to remove interior trim piece to access the securing screws.

Thanks!
 
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  #2  
Old 01-20-13, 09:50 AM
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Not sure about yours, but a similar, keyed MIWA model has a decorative cover hiding the bolts (screws). Try seeing if the inside cover unscrews or pops off with a little gentle prying.
 
  #3  
Old 01-20-13, 07:03 PM
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This era MIWA uses opposite tie-screws, so both face covers have to be removed. IF the lock was installed correctly, (often they were not) there is a hole in each collar that SHOULD be facing the edge of the door. Inserting a large straightened-out paper clip in these holes will push a retaining pin that releases these covers, that are themselves, spring-loaded. They should just pop off, but if not, coax a little using a small screwdriver to gently pry along the edges, while pushing the paperclip.

If this does not work after a few pokes, it is likely that the threaded plugs have been installed in these holes; (I always tried poking first, because half the time the original installer left these plugs out). The plugs are removed using a very small metric allen wrench (ccw). Sorry, I don't remember the size, but the length was long enough to extend beyond the door's edge so a full rotation could be made, as it takes many rotations to remove the plug.
 
  #4  
Old 01-20-13, 07:26 PM
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Another hint, as these can be a booger to remove without damage if installed incorrectly. On a standard 1-3/4" thick door, a thin spacer ring should have been used between each cylinder and it's collar. This will allow easy access with said paperclip (or allen wrench) to pop the cover. If the door is a little thicker, or if for any reason, these spacer rings have not been used, the face release pins will not be well-lined up to the access holes in the collars.....In this case, a slight bend in the end of the paperclip will allow it to "turn the corner" a bit as it enters the hole. (easier done than explained).

When re-assembling, make sure the pins and holes both face the door's edge; it is possible to incorrectly re-assemble where the pins and holes are opposite one another, resulting in possible damage if disassembly is ever needed again.
 
  #5  
Old 01-20-13, 08:03 PM
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To clarify my term "threaded plug" think "socket screw" or "set screw".
 
  #6  
Old 01-23-13, 07:50 PM
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Cool Thank you!

Rstripe, you were right on, with every one one of your hints...some cylinders had the set-screw plugs in, some didn't, some had the spacer rings, some didn't, some had the pin perfectly lined up (small drill bit worked well) others needed the bent paperclip trick. One of the face covers did not come out nicely and is now cosmetically challenged, but cie la vie.

As great as these locks have been, I'm going to replace them as I'm turning the house into a rental and the $45 cost for extra keys is silly...and it will be nice to finally have just one key to open deadbolt and knob lock!
 
  #7  
Old 01-24-13, 04:41 PM
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Wow! And to think we used to charge $5.50 for duplicates back then...

Yeah, keep them for yourself, they'll be a collectors item for the grandkids.

PS: They are pretty strong locks for the hammer & prybar thieves,, but are vulnerable to a specialized form of attack, as well as de-coding, but fortunately, few know the technique.

The second generation MIWA's use both magnets and pin tumblers.
 
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