Front door lock stuck in locked position - how to fix?

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  #1  
Old 10-16-13, 07:49 AM
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Front door lock stuck in locked position - how to fix?

First let me say I am a complete novice @ home repair. Our front door has two locks - one deadbolt, and one with a handle. Yesterday the lock with the handle (picture below) would not unlock. I took the handle off and tried to pry the lock open, but no luck. I have no idea what to do next - do I need to buy a completely new lock? Thanks for any help anyone can offer -
 
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Old 10-16-13, 07:41 PM
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It would appear from your photo that the latch cam has broken or become displaced from the 2-3/4" backset position....remove the other side knob,
(if you can't get to the other side, simply push it out from the photo side).

Fortunately, you have a considerable gap between the door & frame, where you can wedge a medium size screwdriver to pry the latch back. If it doesn't pry back easy, look into the door hole at the mechanism while prying; you might be able to see what is causing the problem & using another screwdriver, be able to assist the process. If still no go, the apparent gap shown in the photo should be sufficient such that by removing the hinge pins, you will have the clearance necessary to remove the door. It helps to have 2 people if you go that route.
 
  #3  
Old 10-16-13, 08:01 PM
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Incidentally, prying the latch back is easier if you can get something BEHIND the latch and pull OUT, acting on the latches' natural bevel. Most anything will do;
heavy twine, a bent coat hanger, stiff wire etc.
 
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Old 10-16-13, 08:16 PM
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Oh, and yes, toss the lock; it's a cheap light duty version. If the door gets a lot of use consider replacing it with a Grade 2 (medium duty) passage set...just make sure the new lock (passage set) will adapt to 2-3/4" backset measurement, as is evident in the photo...this measurement is commonly used on commercial doors, rarely on residential, tho not unheard of. Make sure by measuring between the doors' edge and the centerline of the crossbore hole; it will be 2-3/8" or 2-3/4".
 
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Old 10-17-13, 01:29 PM
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got the lock out!

Thanks for the great advice - used a hangar and was successful in getting the lock out of the door and I will be replacing it with a heavier gauge model per your suggestions. Thanks again!
 
  #6  
Old 10-17-13, 04:47 PM
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You're welcome! Remember, when replacing a "cylindrical" lock, most light duty (Grade 3, as in the photo) are field adaptable to both backset measurements, but many medium duty (Grade 2) locks are not, and must be purchased for one backset or the other, (as will be indicated on the package). Heavy duty (Grade 1) is intended for commercial or industrial only & come standard with 2-3/4" backset.

The above applies to keyed locks & non-locking "passage" sets, as well as both knob & lever styles.
 
  #7  
Old 05-15-15, 04:39 PM
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What do you do when there is no gap between the door and jam?
 
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Old 05-15-15, 05:12 PM
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You probably need to put 3" long screws through the hinges that will pull the door toward the studs and away from the jamb. You may also have shimmed the door too tight behind the hinges.
 
  #9  
Old 05-16-15, 07:49 PM
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Popping the hinge pins will give you 1/16" - 3/32". Then with a couple of big wood chisels above and below the latch you can "coax" a little more . Careful once the latch clears the strike plate, don't let the door open free till you put back the pins. Really, unless your house was built more than 75 years ago with solid oak, most door frames are pretty flexible.
 
  #10  
Old 06-02-15, 02:45 PM
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I realize this thread is done but according to the original picture, it shows the latch has dropped according to the way it was hitting the strike. this indicates the door has dropped and probably (as explained in many other threads here), you should have wedged the bottom of the door to take the pressure off the latch mechanism. Then you probably would have had a much easier time of things.
 
  #11  
Old 06-02-15, 03:41 PM
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Post #7 resurrected this thread with a new question.
 
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