Need replacement lock for steel door

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  #1  
Old 07-06-14, 12:34 PM
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Need replacement lock for steel door

The lock in my 1970 steel door does not have the typical two screw strike plate that is flush with the frame. The plunger and the deadbolt come out of cylinders that are pressed into the door. The steel extends over the end with a seam in the middle so there is no way to install a lock set with a conventional strike plate. The door handle lock needs to be replaced. Am I SOL? I have not seen anything that will work at the big box stores.
 
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Old 07-06-14, 05:22 PM
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Old 07-06-14, 06:24 PM
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The "strike plate" is the plate that is fastened to the door frame, and has a hole for the latchbolt or deadbolt to enter, thereby locking the door to the frame. I think you're talking about the typical plate on the door's edge that supports the latchbolt/deadbolt, which in your case is absent. These are called "drive-in" latches or bolts, and are not as popular as they once were; they tend to get loose and wobbly with much use in metal doors. They are easier (cheaper labor) to install into hollow metal doors though, especially doors with a central seam.

Replacement drive-in bolts are available from your local locksmith if you stick with well-known brands, such as Schlage. A seamed hollow-metal door suggests a commercial grade door and you should avoid the cheaper consumer-grade locks typically found at the big boxes.

Also, know that, depending on your clearance between door & frame, a standard bolt having the 2 screw plate can be installed with a little patience, and you will end up with a more secure installation.
 
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Old 07-07-14, 01:05 PM
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You are correct rstripe and the "drive-in" latch on the handle is loose and wobbly. The deadbolt is secure. I just looked at the door and their is much more clearance than a typical single door (this is a double door) so it looks like I could replace the handle and the deadbolt with a current style and not have to set the support plate flush. I will investigate further. Thanks.
 
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Old 07-08-14, 08:21 PM
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It is possible to install a standard latch mechanism, but it requires significant modification, best handled by a professional I suggest.

You would cut out the steel to the shape of the faceplate. install metal tabs top and bottom screwed to the inside of the faceplate. Then simply drill holes above and below the rectangular faceplate hole, you made and screw into the tabs with sheet metal screws.

As I said, a little messy for the untrained, but I have done it before and it works successfully and looks good.
 
  #6  
Old 07-09-14, 06:24 PM
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You 're good to go with a conventional latch/bolt style since you have the clearance...careful of the standing seam on the door's edge; it's tack welded every few inches along the seam, and may separate when drilled for the screws.

Carefully step-drill on the seam, so it doesn't separate, and while self-tapping sheet metal screws would be easy to install, if you have a 12/24 tap, a 12/24 c/s screw would secure the latch better. You would need to enlarge the latchplate holes just a bit to accommodate these larger-than-normal screws.

If you did NOT have the clearance, AND did not have the central standing seam, Global's method using "mounting tabs" would be appropriate. If you only lack 3/32" or less to achieve clearance, the door's edge can be caved in slightly around the latchplate with a cold chisel.
 
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