Solid wood Door needs knob bored


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Old 09-24-15, 11:33 PM
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Solid wood Door needs knob bored

I have changed out allot of knobs, with adjustments on the latch and strike plate. Just a bit rusty and seeking advise and tips.
Also drilled many with templates years ago. I have to layout from scratch on this solid Mahogany door for upgrading existing door.
Any tutorials or tips welcomed, saw a few with templates on you tube.
For now I will just try and copy the old door and make a template from that.
Using existing knob and hardware.
Just wondering how to keep the drill straight when drilling the latch hole. I do realize its a very forgiving hole as far as tolerance. I will just file to make sure everything works smoothly.

I know you guys will set me straight
PS did have a thought while writing this. I could turn the bench drill to overhang off the bench and set door under it.
There solved I think?.!!
 
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Old 09-25-15, 02:31 AM
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To me, the easiest way is to wait until after the door has been hung, find the center of the latch/strike plate and transfer that center line over. Your latch back set will either be 2 3/8 or 2 3/4 from edge of door. I have never needed to use a drill press. I just use a cordless. If you need a visual to keep your drill square to the door edge, maybe just clamp a long 2x4 to the door to give you a visual reference to help you see what's straight.
 
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Old 09-25-15, 03:38 AM
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I'm sure I've not bored as many doors as X but I do it the same way - after the door is hung. The only template I've ever used is the one on the back of the instructions. Just lay it in place and take a nail or punch and make the center marks.
 
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Old 09-25-15, 06:16 AM
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You can buy a kit that will locate and drill both holes with perfect alignment. With instructions and hole saws.
 
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Old 09-25-15, 06:16 AM
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OK, so I'm a wuss, but if I was boring a solid Mahogany door ($$$!), I'd use one of the 30$ boring guides like: DEWALT Door Lock Installation Kit-D180004 - The Home Depot

Remember when using a hole saw, don't go all the way through from the first side. Once the center drill has broken through, move to the other side and finish the hole from that side. That way you don't get a lot of tear out. Good luck!
 
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Old 09-25-15, 06:10 PM
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With the assumption that you are refering to a cylindrical lock and not a mortise lock, many locksmiths use a Forstner bit (Google Images) to make quick time of the crossbore hole but it's cheaper and you're less likely to screw up by using a 1-1/8" hole saw for the crossbore and a 7/8" hole saw for the edge bore. (If it's a commercial lock the edgebore is 1"). Measure for the backset centerline, taking into account for the door's bevel, if any. The edgebore can be eyeballed. I start by carefully drilling a 1/4" pilot hole for both bores. This keeps the holesaw from drifting as much as it would otherwise. Don't be in a hurry. Use the longest hole saw guide bit you can find, as this keeps the saw secure as you frequently draw it out to clear the sawdust. As mentioned earlier, penetrate one side half way or so, then drill the other side.
 
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Old 09-25-15, 06:18 PM
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Oh, and to mark for the latch hole in the door frame (jamb), take the 7/8" (1") hole saw, reverse it and insert it into the latch hole, close the door, then use a tool to push it back out, marking the frame. It's not exact, but it's close enough for government work.
 
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Old 09-25-15, 08:25 PM
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Oh, take the 7/8" (1") hole saw, reverse it and insert it into the latch hole, close the door, then use a tool to push it back out, marking the frame. It's not exact, but it's close enough for government work.
Great Tip!!!
Thanks to all for the tips!!!! and Refresher course. I am aware of boring form both sides. I will be using a pilot hole. Always taught to predrill from Cabinet/furniture making projects.
I will be Absolutely hanging the door & hinges first! I do not have a template since I will replacing old door knob.
I did buy a Cheaper $20 boring guide kit (Only one they had) but from the looks of it I don't feel confidant in it.
Thanks again to all!!
 
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Old 09-26-15, 12:18 PM
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Proofreading my post revealed a boo-boo: the crossbore is a 2-1/8" hole saw, NOT a 1-1/8". Not many locks will fit into a 1-1/8" hole.
 
 

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