Moving Strikeplate

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  #1  
Old 06-17-19, 07:55 AM
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Moving Strikeplate

Hello everyone.. recently purchased a new home and the forum has been extremely helpful. Love everything about it.. I've learned a lot reading through some of the posts here.

I'm hoping someone can help me with a strikeplate issue. I purchased a nest yale lock and there is a minor discrepancy between the strikeplate and the dead bolt. I simply put the nest strikeplate through the same holes as the old strikeplate but there is a very minor discrepancy (you can see the scratches on the top of the image below.. sorry I forgot rotate the image). What options do I have? I considered moving the screws slightly to the right but because they are so close to the original holes, I'd end up with just one long hole that probably isnt very sturdy

Thanks in advance!
 
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Old 06-17-19, 08:52 AM
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Welcome!

You can plug the old holes by drilling them out, and inserting golf tees (or dowel) and wood glue. Wait a couple hours then cut them off flush and drill pilot holes for your new screw locations that are smaller than your screws.

A conical rasp/file on a drill is good for cleaning wood out of the center of the hole.

Ideally, the deadbolt screws should be long enough to reach the stud behind the door jamb.
 
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Old 06-17-19, 01:43 PM
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Several ways to do this, depending on the effort you want to put forth.
Quick method: I'm assuming you need to move the plate slightly AWAY from the door stop. Also assuming you've got (or can obtain, if not existing) screws long enough to penetrate an inch or more into the wall stud. Simply use a drill to drift the screw holes in the door frame, then drill into the stud 1/4" or so over from the original holes. Since there's no force to move the plate back closer to the stop, it won't matter that the holes have been drifted over a little.

Better method: Get a commercial strike plate (ANSI 4-7/8") (free, or less than $5) from your local locksmith with appropriate screws. The larger plate will be stronger and cover up the messy existing mortise. The screw holes will be drilled in completely new areas. I noticed your frame is already split because the previous installer didn't drill big enough pilot holes, so if you use 3" or so wood screws, make sure the unthreaded shank doesn't further split the frame. And don't over-tighten, as many frames aren't shimmed around the strike plates properly, so over-tightening will draw the frame away from the door.

If you want to go even stronger against kick-in force, there are several aftermarket products that are longer and use more than just 2 screws. Check out Don-Jo Manufacturing company for a selection.
 
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