Trying to remove double-keyed Schlage deadbolt

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  #1  
Old 03-25-20, 06:30 PM
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Trying to remove double-keyed Schlage deadbolt

I have a Schlage double-keyed deadbolt attached to a security door that I'm unable to remove.

I don't see any mounting screws (or screw caps) on either housing and when I remove the two deadbolt screws from the plate (as shown in the pic), the plate doesn't come off! It'll jiggle and I can pry it up a bit, but it's definitely attached to something. I tried rotating the housings to no avail.

Any advice or suggestions appreciated.

 
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Old 03-25-20, 06:52 PM
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Remove the snap in face plate from both cylinders. Then remove the cover plate from the deadbolt latch. A small flat screwdriver is usually needed to pop them off. Under that face plate will be 2 Allen set screws deep inside two holes. Loosen those screws then use a key to turn each cylinder counterclockwise until it comes out.
 
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Old 03-25-20, 07:58 PM
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It worked. Thank you!

I'm going to replace it with a new single deadbolt. I'm guessing if I want to use the same key, I should stick with Schlage.
 
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Old 03-25-20, 08:12 PM
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If you want to use the same exact key you'll need to take your new lock to a locksmith to have the tumbler changed to match your old key. It would be less costly to switch to the new key.
 
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Old 03-26-20, 03:52 PM
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IIRC, Home Depot would rekey a newly purchased lock to an existing key for something like $5. I'd like to get the new lock to match the other Schlage locks at my house. However, I was unable to get into the Home Depot to buy a new lock or even see if they would be able to rekey today.

The original double cylinder deadbolt failed because one of the "wheels" on the tailpiece sheared off. I was planning on replacing it with a single cylinder deadbolt because it seemed easier than replacing the tailpieces (I don't think the original owner should have put a double cylinder on a main egress).

However, if it's not easy (or cheap) to rekey a new lock, perhaps I should just try to replace the tailpieces. It doesn't look like it's commonly done at the consumer/DIY level though based on the scarcity of the parts. If I go this route, I'll chain the key to the inside of the security door and leave it in the lock.
 
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Old 03-26-20, 03:54 PM
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Yeah, I would get a deadbolt with a thumb turn. Former owner must have been paranoid about break ins.
 
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Old 03-26-20, 04:10 PM
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I'll chain the key to the inside of the security door and leave it in the lock.
I have a porch with a door with a double keyed lock. I hang the key on the center hinge.
Too much glass around the door for a standard deadbolt.
 
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Old 03-26-20, 07:15 PM
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Here's one of the tailpieces. I can't seem to find this online as mine, which is at least 12 years old, has a wheel on the end and is circular.

Are these fairly easy to find and replace? If so, I'll just fix the existing double-keyed deadbolt and chain a key on the inside.
 
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Old 03-27-20, 09:59 AM
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They are available. Search for Tail Pieces for Schlage B162. The ones I found may need to be shortened.

CYLINDER INSTALLATION TIP:
  1. Put the key in your pocket.
  2. Extend deadbolt.
  3. Install cylinders.
  4. Test with door OPEN.
 
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Old 03-27-20, 07:47 PM
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Late to the party, but agree with ThisOldMan, tailpieces are available, locksmiths usually hoard them, because these are the first components to fail on these locks, usually due to excessive key force. And I believe they did come in (2) lengths, so be careful when ordering....as stated, you can always grind a longer one down. A caution: the length is rather critical....long enough so that each tailpiece overlaps the other where they pass thru the bolt actuating cam, but not so long that they impinge in the opposite cylinder cap. Tho this appears to be a metal clad door, there should be a wood block for the locks to install into, so that the door doesn't collapse when tightening the tie-screws. If you have to shorten a tailpiece, deburr and dress it up nicely, so it will slide in easily next to it's mate.

@ThisOldMan, help my memory, I think XSleeper is mixing up the removal procedure of 2 different locks. The one where you remove the latch plate, and loosen the set screws so that the mortise cylinders can be unscrewed, was a Lori brand, commonly sold under the U S Lock logo, right? And the double cylinder Schlage B162 I think only requires the removal of the inside cap to reveal the tie screws. I do remember the Schlage locks of the 60's & 70's design, where the double cylinder model had a tie screw from each side, with no "cover" cap.....a lousy design, IMO.
 
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Old 03-27-20, 08:02 PM
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There's a little trick you can do, if you'd like to fix and keep the existing deadbolt, but make to safer to use like a single cylinder model, while keeping the option of a double cylinder, for like if you go on vacation and want the extra security.
By loosening the inside plug-retaining cap about 3/4 to 1 turn (making sure it locks in place) a spare key can then be kept in the cylinder for daily use, and because of the loosened cap, it can't be removed by other family members unless they know the "trick"....when you want to remove it, simply hold the plug in with a finger while pulling out on the key.
 
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Old 03-28-20, 09:35 AM
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I agree with rstripe on different brands. I saw the Lori lock private labeled by other manufacturers; specifically I remember Corbin/Russwin (as they morphed into Emhart) using it because they didn't have a cylindrical deadbolt. They probably bought the body and bolt (less the faceplate) and added mortise cylinders and the faceplate.
The B162 I remember came with plugs to be driven into the allen-head connecting screws. Never saw a pop-off faceplate, but I retired from locksmithing long ago.
 
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Old 03-28-20, 09:21 PM
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You brought back some memories there, I've still got an old C/R deadbolt in my stash....very expensive back in the day, they were machined of solid brass, and had a little 5/8" throw deadbolt, with heavy cast bronze cylinder rings. Lori came out with theirs made of cast pot metal at a fraction of the cost. Except for the 5/8" bolt. the C/R design was really strong and durable. The Lori.....well, the big 1" bolt ends right behind the latch plate, with a narrow linkage rod connecting it to the center crank. I saw a couple of kicked-in doors with the Lori design, and the bolt simply bent at the linkage connection and pulled the latch plate off the door edge. To be fair, most inexpensive 1" deadbolts have this weakness tho.
 
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