Kwikset keyed entry latch bolt will not fully recess
#1
Kwikset keyed entry latch bolt will not fully recess
I have a set of Kwikset locks and the bottom keyed entry has an issue.
If I grab the knob and turn it clockwise all the way, or counterclockwise all the way, the latch bolt will retract but not all the way, it will leave about 1/8" to 3/16" sticking out so the door won't open because it doesn't clear the strike plate, I have to jiggle several times every time to get it to open.




Is this something that can be adjusted or is the lock broken and needs replacement?
If I grab the knob and turn it clockwise all the way, or counterclockwise all the way, the latch bolt will retract but not all the way, it will leave about 1/8" to 3/16" sticking out so the door won't open because it doesn't clear the strike plate, I have to jiggle several times every time to get it to open.




Is this something that can be adjusted or is the lock broken and needs replacement?
#2
It looks like the hole was drilled too close to the door edge. The minimum backset to the center of that hole is 2 3/8". And it also looks like the latch itself has not been mortised into the door edge. It's not flush with the door edge.
If you take the knob out and measure, and the hole is 2 3/8" backset check to make sure the latch is also adjusted for a 2 3/8" backset.
If the latch is not adjustable, you need one that is.
Your key cylinder is also upside down. There are YouTube videos that show you how to flip the cylinder 180 degrees.
If you take the knob out and measure, and the hole is 2 3/8" backset check to make sure the latch is also adjusted for a 2 3/8" backset.
If the latch is not adjustable, you need one that is.
Your key cylinder is also upside down. There are YouTube videos that show you how to flip the cylinder 180 degrees.
#3
When you state "adjustable" it's 2 3/8 or 2 3/4, there is nothing else.
You may have to adjust the hole in the door but honestly I dont know for that small amount of movement if tit's going to cause a fitment issue!
You may have to adjust the hole in the door but honestly I dont know for that small amount of movement if tit's going to cause a fitment issue!
#4
All of the above may be correct about the original installation. However, if it just started to act like this then perhaps the latch is worn and needs to be replaced. If you disassemble the handles and remove the latch from the door, try retracting the latch with a screwdriver or even your just pushing it in with your finger. if it is not smooth then replace the latch.
- Peter
- Peter
XSleeper voted this post useful.
#5
sorry I wasn't clear.
The door is a prehung door installed over five years ago. The holes are all on the door from the factory.
The Kwikset lock set on the door was installed from day one. No issue. This has started happening several months ago.
Like I said, the issue has nothing to do with the position of the lock in relation with the position of the door or the holes on the door or jamb side. The issue is simply when you try to grab the knob and turn it (in either direction) the latch bolt will retract and stop at about 1/8" to 3/16" proud of the strike plate, where before it will go all the way in to clear the door to allow it to open freely.
The door is a prehung door installed over five years ago. The holes are all on the door from the factory.
The Kwikset lock set on the door was installed from day one. No issue. This has started happening several months ago.
Like I said, the issue has nothing to do with the position of the lock in relation with the position of the door or the holes on the door or jamb side. The issue is simply when you try to grab the knob and turn it (in either direction) the latch bolt will retract and stop at about 1/8" to 3/16" proud of the strike plate, where before it will go all the way in to clear the door to allow it to open freely.
#7
do I go to a locksmith and buy a Kwikset knob entry latch or are there different models and variations I need to get it matched? I think this was a $35 set I got from Home Depot 4-5 years ago not even sure if it has a model name.
#8
#9
A $35 investment gave you 5 years of trouble-free service, and yes you can replace the latch for less than $10, but the problem might not be the latch. I'd replace the whole lock.
Having said that, you can check a few things that might give a few more years service.
1. Push the latch in with your finger to make sure it will actually go all the way in If not, again, I'd replace the whole thing,
2. If so, it could be:
a) wearing out , where the spindle contacts and retracts the latch, altho this would manifest slowly over time.
b). metal-clad doors sometimes don't have proper indexing slots to stabilize the lock, and if the lock gets loose it can slide around somewhat. Twisting the knob will cause the lock to want to move toward the door's edge, (especially if the latch binds in the strike plate, requiring more than normal twisting force), and as the thru-posts wear, this can result in the latch not retracting fully. Try loosening the cross-bore screws a little and see if you can scoot the lock away from the door's edge, then re-tighten well.
c). Occasionally the wire knob return spring shifts with use and can block full retraction.
All of the above could be happening in combination. Kwikset is among the cheapest and you got your money's worth.
Having said that, you can check a few things that might give a few more years service.
1. Push the latch in with your finger to make sure it will actually go all the way in If not, again, I'd replace the whole thing,
2. If so, it could be:
a) wearing out , where the spindle contacts and retracts the latch, altho this would manifest slowly over time.
b). metal-clad doors sometimes don't have proper indexing slots to stabilize the lock, and if the lock gets loose it can slide around somewhat. Twisting the knob will cause the lock to want to move toward the door's edge, (especially if the latch binds in the strike plate, requiring more than normal twisting force), and as the thru-posts wear, this can result in the latch not retracting fully. Try loosening the cross-bore screws a little and see if you can scoot the lock away from the door's edge, then re-tighten well.
c). Occasionally the wire knob return spring shifts with use and can block full retraction.
All of the above could be happening in combination. Kwikset is among the cheapest and you got your money's worth.
#10
If you do replace it, and assuming you want to have it keyed the same as the deadbolt, I think they still refer to this model as a "Tylo" .....tho I don't know if that name appears on blister packaging. The big box stores may offer two versions of the Tylo Entry knob lock: the old standard, and the newer "Smart Key" at a slightly higher cost, that lets the user re-key it without having to disassemble it. The Smart Key lock is easily identified by having a very small slot 1/8" next to the main keyhole. There are pro's & con's to each version.