Sliding Door Latch Replacement

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Old 10-08-20, 01:39 PM
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Sliding Door Latch Replacement

My sliding door only sporadically latches - and then only after I fiddle with the latch hook.

I don't know how old it is - it's at least 20 years, so the lock is pretty corroded, etc. So I want to try to figure out what I need before I tear it apart. (Because I'd rather have a door that frustrates me than one with no latch at all).

Most of what I've found on the Googles has "45 degree" keyways, though some have 90 degree. I presume it matters, so how would I know what I need? (Given that I will have to replace the lock as well.)

What else do I need to know?


 
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Old 10-08-20, 02:03 PM
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I would start by looking carefully at what is readily available, look at the measurements they give in their specifications, and see if it would fit. The kicker will be getting the existing keyway tang to line up. The other measurements like mounting holes are less important because you can probably make it work by relocating mounting holes- if you have to. Most latches come with a new catch plate so that won't be an issue either as long as you use their plate.

Here is an example for starters. You typically need to take the old one out first in order to measure it.
 
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Old 10-08-20, 02:08 PM
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Thanks for the reply.

When you say measurements, do you mean width of the hardware itself? I would presume that's pretty standard.

If I am replacing the lock mechanism, wouldn't it be a given that the tang will match?
 
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Old 10-08-20, 02:14 PM
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No you can't assume anything is standard. Look at the measurements in the link and compare. For example: https://www.swisco.com/Mortise-Lock/...l-Locks/82-226
 
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Old 10-08-20, 02:53 PM
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Of course. Why make it simple.

Here's something fun I learned.

From the "No deed goes unpunished", I thought - well, I'll take off the handle - that can't hurt anything! But wouldn't you know it - the tang (I can't believe how many times I've typed the word "tang") - the tang snapped against the corroded cylinder.

I put everything back together, there was still enough left attached to the inner handle that it works the same as before.

But here's the fun thing I learned.

With the handle off, if I use a screwdriver to turn the keyway, it latches and unlatches just as fine as you please. I put everything back together, and its facacte again. I have to manually wiggle the latch hook before sliding the door shut for everything to catch.

So now I'm thinking, I don't need new internals - I need a new handle and lock.
 
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Old 10-08-20, 02:57 PM
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Try lube first. I use WD-40 specialist PTFE. Blow some air in to dry it out and if it works better blow in a dusting of graphite powder.
 
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Old 10-08-20, 03:02 PM
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I had hit it with WD40 a while back - from the outside, natch - and didn't see much. Will pop the hanle off and try again. Where should I put the graphite?

Thanks,



 
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Old 10-08-20, 03:14 PM
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Yours kind of looks like this one. Its a 3 11/16 with a 45 degree. Can't be sure.

https://www.swisco.com/Mortise-Lock-...l-Locks/82-218

This one is 3 11/16 with a 90 degree.

https://www.swisco.com/Mortise-Lock/...l-Locks/82-223

If it operates fine with a screwdriver, then just lube the heck out of the catch (hook) with the graphite. You would probably have to take it out to lube the tang receiver, since its a round part that is currently behind the frame.

Occasionally, screwing the handle on too tight will pinch the vinyl frame which affects how the latch operates. Maybe thats what us happening here.
 
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Old 10-08-20, 04:04 PM
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Hm. I'm super worried about taking it out. I better have replacement parts ready to go, just in case. And you know Ace always loves selling me stuff and getting it returned the next day...
 
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Old 10-08-20, 04:28 PM
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I don't think you have much to worry about if you can get the screws loose. Its a single part. Its not going to fall apart in a million pieces when you take it out.
 
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Old 10-09-20, 12:53 PM
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Thanks to your ruler measurements, it looks like you have an Adams-Rite MS1847-02 deadlock. The mounting screws are 3-11/16" on centers, and that sure looks like what you've got. The screw just above the hook is to adjust the hook projection to allow a snug fit. The tailpiece is oriented at 45 degrees, tho there are different models to allow for other orientations. Locksmiths are very familiar with Adams-Rite products, and you should be able to access their catalogue online.
 
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Old 10-09-20, 12:58 PM
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At second glance, your tailpiece orientation looks to be 22.5 degrees, which would be the model
MS-1847-09.
 
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