Aluminum Store Front Door not closing properly

We recently rented a commercial space and when you sign a lease you are responsible for everything along with it. I noticed the door closer is not working properly. This is an old aluminum store front door with a transom concealed door closer. One problem is a large gap between the door and the frame where the telescopic dead bolt is. I installed a heavy-duty insulation attached to a piece of aluminum to shore up the gap and keep the air inside the unit. Now what happens is the door is designed to open both ways. I adjusted the door sweep and latch speed and it is a little better, but the door will not stay closed every time on a test open and close. Once it hits the door stop, I installed it pops back open by about five to inches. Also the door does not set plumb within the frame, there is a gap on the hinge side that is uneven from the top to the bottom. I have called a lock smith door/specialist and the quote was for a $1,000 to add some parts and switch out the lock so not worth it due its age and I do not own the door. So that said, I can add a video and pictures but is there anyone who knows about these types of doors. To replace it will cost $2,000 or more which I may end up doing but just need to get it working properly for now. Thanks for any advice you can give. Rich

 

Definitely post pictures. Without them we are just guessing at what you have.

 

Not an unusual situation. Probably why the owner has it in the lease that you pay for all repairs. These door closures are not cheap and if it's old, most likley outdated.
I don't mean to admonish you, but items like this should've been checked out first then negotiated within the lease.
You might want to contact the landlord and try to negotiate a 1/2 and 1/2 payment. He's not stupid. He gets to lease the building and have all repairs taken care of. How's the heating, plumbing, structure, windows, toilet facilities, alarm systems, electrical systems, etc...

 

Most lease agreements stipulate the property owner is responsible for all exterior doors, and the tenant for interior.
Be that as it may, it sounds like you've got a "concealed overhead closer" very common on Herculite doors, as well.
As they age, the closer arm gets loose on the spindle, and wears the arm. The door will "float" free for an inch or two, either side of the dead center position. I presume the door stop you've installed now allows only outswing operation. It's likely to be worn out past the ability to adjust, but I would first see if the arm clamp is loose. Adjustments are made by first closing the sweep valve all the way so that the door will stay open on it's own (don't block open) at 90 degrees or so. The cover plate is removed from the top hinge side of the stile to access the clamp. If the clamp is tight, and there's no play on the spindle, the closer itself is shot. Sometimes you can compensate for the wear, by adjusting the arm itself to bias the door inward (done with an end wrench, if you have clearance above door). If all else fails, you can install a conventional surface-applied closer above the door. This will, of course, increase the force required to open the door, but if installed with correct geometry, will maximize the final closing position without adding too much to the sweep position.

 

Closers concealed in the header have to have some way to mount and dismount the door. This is usually done with the top arm as illustrated below. The side-load arms have a plate on the door (usually the inside) to access the bolts.for the clamping block.


The pictures above are of one popular brand, but here are too many brands with inherent differences to go into much detail. Here are some things to check on all header-closers when the door does not center:

1. The bolts in the clamping block can get loose causing the door not to center.
2. Broken clamping block bolt.
3. The centering screws (bolts) can get loose.
4. The closer can loosen from the header.
5. Closer internal parts can get worn.

Numbers 1, 2 and 3 you might be able to take care of yourself. Numbers 4 and 5, I suggest you call a glass company to does aluminum store fronts.

Good luck and keep us posted on what you find!

EDIT: If you find #2, loosen the screws that attach the arm to the door before adjusting the centering screws. Then re-tighten the mounting screws you loosened.

There are no user serviceable parts inside. Springs are often under great compression/tension and can cause serious injuryI

 

Also, since the arm is softer than the spindle, replacing the arm might gain you better control. And also, depending on the brand, there are conversion kits available that replace the arm with a fitting that allows free swinging so that a conventional closer can be installed without the added force of the old closer.

 

And another word of advice: The clamp essentially holds the door in place, so servicing these parts is often a 2-man job, for safety reasons.

 

Thank you for the advice I am going to post some pictures of the door. The clamp block is missing a screw and the cylinders have screws holding them in place rather than the proper set screws. I understand about signing a lease with this kind of problem but under the circumstances everything else is working pretty well. Our son is an HVAC tech and a mighty fine so no worries on that front.

without the insulation piece installed

 

Very good pics my friend, but the pics needed were for the concealed overhead closer. Since it's mostly hidden in the header, the only thing to see is a shot looking down into the top rail of the door (with the door open to 90 degrees) showing the arm, and with the cover plate removed from the hinge end or side of the top rail, showing the clamp.

Re: your pics, boy, that door's seen better days.....that's an old Armalite Telescoping deadbolt; cheap Chinese clones are still available for about $40, at least you'd end up with the proper set screws.

From the looks of the overall door, I think you're in for a complete closer replacement, tho.

 

Thank you for the advice, I purchased a universal door mount. There have been several installed on the frame. My question is how to install it in those holes because the concealed closer will stop the screws? I am thinking to back out the tension and just use this closer. I bought it from Home Depot today. It's the heavy duty universal one. I wil get the proper set screws for the door as well. Thanks for your insights.