I have an unusual lock situation A big door with multiple layers that needs a lock that can work. I enclosed some pictures so maybe somebody can give me some recommendations The door on the right does not open. It's not even a door. It is the jam where the bar would go. I need a lock that would go past the dark trim piece and maybe have a bar on the inside going to a jam. A deadbolt won't work. I need a key on the outside and a latch on the inside
It's a hinged door. The left door is hinged and the one with multiple thickness. The right one is not even a door. There is a jam flush with it.
XSleeper. I could use a hasp on the outside and a latch on the inside. Someone could put the lock on or even a stick in it while I'm inside which would not be cool.
Thru the door is 4 steps then a locked door with a deadbolt and handle lockset. I'm looking for added security
We'll need lots more info on this unusual application, than your confusing description and low-res photos. A sectional view dimensional drawing would be helpful, showing the closed door relationship between door and jamb. It sounds like, based on your scant data, your biggest problem is the door thickness. A rim deadbolt or jimmy-proof (Segal) type lock with extra-long tailpiece rim cylinder may be your best bet. I have a home-made shed with a combined thickness at the lock location of 4-1/2" for which I used a Yale jimmy-proof deadbolt. To keep the door latched, I used a common passage cylindrical lock, with the cross-bore undercut on both sides with a hole saw large enough to countersink the roses.
This is the jam Left door
So I need a lock that will go thru the Open door pic and lock to the jam. I need to be able to open it from the outside with a key and then when I'm inside lock it and go downstairs to the other locked door. Thanks
You rule out the use of deadbolt... but I have installed them on similar doors plenty of times. So I don't know what your aversion is to that. If the door is too thick you just need to neatly mortise and chisel the interior 2x4 to make it work. A hole saw the same size as the rose drilled partway into the back... then chisel out the depth you need.
Opens outside with a key... A thumbturn inside is your latch.
XSleeper The door has multiple thickness. 4 inches thick. As you can see from the first picture. if you have done it in situations like that I suppose I can give it a try.
Rim locks are not nearly as common in the USA as they are in Europe and Asia, so the typical rim lock cylinder purchased here will work on a thickness only up to about 3-1/2" to 3-3/4".
The Italian lock company CISA (now part of world-wide Allegeon) has a huge variety of rim locks, and are being marketed in the USA now through various outlets......of all places, I would not have expected to see a CISA available through WALMART (online only) but I found a Walmart ad for a CISA rim lock that will go up to a 4" door. The price is cheap enough to just order it to see if it can work.
This is kind of a follow up question or maybe a "I'm curious" question.
I just had some Andersen casement windows repaired by a local shop.
They had to order the glass. That tells me that they received a sealed double pane of glass (I assume from Andersen) to fit the sash. But I can't see any possible seam or "break" in the sash frame to install it. But after closer inspection I see these slots around the inside perimeter of the aluminum "bead".
Are these access holes to be used to remove and/or insert new glass?
If so, why can't I do that myself in the future?
Did an exhaustive search online to find some kind of instruction but to no avail.
FWIW I don't think these are gas filled, just a vacuum.
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