Schlage door lock

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  #1  
Old 03-01-02, 01:37 PM
MikeCT
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Schlage door lock

I'm about to have to replace the doorlock on the door leading to my garage from the house for the second time in 6 years. The deadbolt works fine, but latch on the doorknob no longer retracts when the door closes on its own; instead, I have to manually turn the doorknob, pull it closed tightly, and then release it. If I let the door close on its own, it never closes because the latch stays out.

It's a Schlage lock, and is guaranteed. However, since it's happened twice I don't think it's a coincidence. It's also a pain to have to go get the replacement for something that should last more than three years. Has anyone else had this happen, or know what causes it?
 
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  #2  
Old 03-04-02, 09:15 AM
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Could be a couple of things. The first thing I would try is some lubricant. That is often all it takes to get a latch working again. Another possiblilty is the lock. If it is an F-series lock(their light duty residential) and it is getting a lot of use, the latch could be wearing out. Go to a beefier model. Another thing to look for, and what made me think of it is when you said pull the door tight , is the latch binding on the strike. I f you have to pull a door tight to get it to latch this is usually due to it being warped, the frame out of plumb or a strike plate out of position, the lateral pressue on a latch can cause you problems over time seriously increasing the wear and tear. The solution in this case would be to file the strike bigger or reposition it.
Do you have a closer on this door? If a door closer is swing too fast and causing an impact on a latch that is sticking, this could also cause premature failure. In this case you would want to slow the closer down and keep the latch lubricated.
All these instances assume that the lock was properly installed in the first place, with all the holes lined up correctly and no binding going on. Sometimes loosening the screws and lining everthing back up, make sure the latch is correctly attached to the lockbody also, will correct minor alignment problems.
 
  #3  
Old 03-05-02, 10:10 AM
joelp
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The deadlatching mechanism, the little piece that sits next to the latch must operate independant of the latch. This prevents the lock from being loided. (Credit card used to slide the bolt in). It is very possible that if the latch and strike are not properly lined up, you will eventually have this happen. Does the deadlatch fall into the strike hole? or does it sit on the metal tongue of the strikeplate.

The previous post has good advice, as Schlage residential locks F series incorporate a tubular latch design that doesn't hold up under heavy use. As a matter of clarification, no manufacturers' tubular does, so switch to the A series which is a cylindrical latch, Grade 1 and designed for Commercial type applications.

Good luck.
 
  #4  
Old 03-25-02, 07:18 PM
m_vorpahl
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Re: Schlage door lock

Mike, one thing to remember is that the lock is only gauranteed for a limited time. Schlage locks have a lifetime warranty on the finish, no the whole lock. I do agree that you will have to go to a higher quality lock, like the A-Series by schlage. But this is a grade 2 lock not a grade 1. One more thing to check is the strike plate. If you have caught something on it and it got bent out slightly, the curve of the plate might be gone. The lip of the strike, where the latch first contacts the strike should be curved. If it is too straight, it will wear on the latch, causing it to malfunction.

Good Luck,

Michael D. Vorpahl,CRL
Captial Lock, Inc.

Originally posted by MikeCT
I'm about to have to replace the doorlock on the door leading to my garage from the house for the second time in 6 years. The deadbolt works fine, but latch on the doorknob no longer retracts when the door closes on its own; instead, I have to manually turn the doorknob, pull it closed tightly, and then release it. If I let the door close on its own, it never closes because the latch stays out.

It's a Schlage lock, and is guaranteed. However, since it's happened twice I don't think it's a coincidence. It's also a pain to have to go get the replacement for something that should last more than three years. Has anyone else had this happen, or know what causes it?
 
  #5  
Old 03-25-02, 07:37 PM
joelp
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I am not so sure on the warranty issue. Having worked for a lock manufacturer for a number of years the pendulum shifted with Lifetime warranty on both finish and mechanics. If you are having a repeated problem with the latch on this door, you probably have a poor installation that is putting some undue stress on the latch. Most likely a misalignment. Take some lipstick and mark the latch in the center so it will leave a mark on the strike. See where that mark hits the strike. I bet it is not dead center, causing the lock mechanism to be flexed out of center. This may be your problem, and can be easily fixed. I would also check the cross bore of the door. Is the hole square and level? If not, this compounded with a strike issue could result in early failure.
 
  #6  
Old 03-25-02, 07:38 PM
joelp
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Here is one other thing to think about, depending on the part of the country you live in, the door from the garage is supposed to be a 20 minute fire labeled door. This means that the lock installed needs to have a UL F rated latch to meet fire code.???
 
  #7  
Old 07-17-05, 10:26 AM
Bono333
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Problem similar to MikeCT's

I have just started having difficulty with my Schlage doorknob. In my case, the door is in a doorway built with 2 X 6 studs, so the latch strikes the doorway frame before hitting the strike. Until yesterday, the door would shut and latch just fine on its own. However, now when the door swings to, the latch hits doorway and fails to retract, so we must manually turn the knob and pull the door shut.
I tightened the hinge screws and sprayed some WD-40 on the latch, but with no effect. I'm wondering if there is a deeper strike that would accomodate the additional depth of the 2 X 6 doorway. Alternatively, I've wondered if should chisel a track for the latch so that it actually hits the strike, which is embedded 2" into the door frame.
Any ideas on getting the door to swing shut and latch will be appreciated.
 
  #8  
Old 07-17-05, 10:38 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 674
Extended strike plates are available in different sizes for your situation. They are longer so the lip extends past the frame and keeps the latch from hitting the wood.

Here is an example:

http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/29...te-152587.aspx
 
  #9  
Old 07-18-05, 08:09 AM
Bono333
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Extended lip strike

Thanks. It didn't appear that Don-Jo had the length I need, but I found a 3" extended lip at the Kwiklock website. I appreciate it!
 
  #10  
Old 07-19-05, 05:55 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 674
Glad to help.
 
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