roof leaks @ chimney edge
#1
03-19-03, 06:10 PM
roof leaks @ chimney edge
I reside in Tucson, Az. The home I reside in is about 30 years old now & has a shingled roof. In heavy rains I have a big leak where my sloped roof meets the chimney-fireplace. The chimney is located at the bottom of the slope at the back side of the home & the chimney masonry block is 63" across there. I have been up on the roof many times to fill/drain swamp cooler which is located near the rooftop. I have seen how the water pools behind the chimney & doesn't run off. I stupidly paid a roofer?! $40 last year to apply black tar/sealant to this same chimney edge & of course the roof leaked immediately afterwards.
I do have attic access & I could not see any water leaking while in the "attic" during recent showers...
I am a "poor" DIY'er looking to learn how to fix this issue. I have been told that I will need to build a cricket or diverter to treat the water runoff. Obviously I will have to remove old sealant, roof coating, shingles, tar paper, old flashing, etc.
The existing shingled roof is worn- I have had quite a few shingle pieces break off in recent years. I've been told that it appears I already have 2 shingle layers on roof. I also have a couple of good sized flat roof areas covering an open patio & an enclosed unvented side room. The sealant where the flat roof edges meet the shingled roof is curling, brittle, gaps, etc.
I would appreciate being directed to some good step-by-step info on how to work out my leak at chimney for now. Any other help would be welcome.
Thank you in advance...
I do have attic access & I could not see any water leaking while in the "attic" during recent showers...
I am a "poor" DIY'er looking to learn how to fix this issue. I have been told that I will need to build a cricket or diverter to treat the water runoff. Obviously I will have to remove old sealant, roof coating, shingles, tar paper, old flashing, etc.
The existing shingled roof is worn- I have had quite a few shingle pieces break off in recent years. I've been told that it appears I already have 2 shingle layers on roof. I also have a couple of good sized flat roof areas covering an open patio & an enclosed unvented side room. The sealant where the flat roof edges meet the shingled roof is curling, brittle, gaps, etc.
I would appreciate being directed to some good step-by-step info on how to work out my leak at chimney for now. Any other help would be welcome.
Thank you in advance...
#2
03-20-03, 04:40 AM
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What you really need is a cricket.
However, until you re-roof and build one, you can temporarily seal the base of the chimney with new flashing and black plastic roofing cement.
Remove any old loose roofing tar, etc. that you can at the base of the chimney.
Use a masonry blade in a circular saw, and cut a half-inch deep kerf in the mortar line about 3 brick layers up on the back side of the chimney and around and across both sides past the edge of the roof at the same level.
Get some aluminum roll flashing the width that you need to reach the roof, plus about 6" (comes in varying widths). You also will need some 1" hardened cement nails and probably five gallons of black plastic roofing cement (and paint stir sticks to apply it with).
Bend a 1/2" lip on the top of the flashing to dry fit into the kerfs on the sides and a piece to fit over them across the roof side to wrap around over the side pieces.
Depending upon the pitch of your roof, you may need to layer upper side pieces over bottom side pieces, overlapped a few inches. Fit the back flashing to slide up under the shingle row above it.
After you get the side flashing pieces and the one for across the back cut and dry-fitted, move them out of the way, and spread a base of black plastic roofing cement on the bricks under them and around the base of the chimney about 6" out on the roof.
Build it up behind the the chimney so that it cannot puddle.
Wear old clothes, throw-away rubber gloves, etc. to apply the black plastic roofing cement. It is VERY sticky, and can even be applied (and will seal) in the rain.
Nail (into mortar only) the flashing in place over the cement, bottom and side pieces first, and then slide the back piece up under the shingle row above it, and wrap it around over the side pieces, with cement everywhere between bricks and flashing and the flashing over flashing.
Seal the edges with silicone caulk.
That should seal it.
Good Luck!
Mike
However, until you re-roof and build one, you can temporarily seal the base of the chimney with new flashing and black plastic roofing cement.
Remove any old loose roofing tar, etc. that you can at the base of the chimney.
Use a masonry blade in a circular saw, and cut a half-inch deep kerf in the mortar line about 3 brick layers up on the back side of the chimney and around and across both sides past the edge of the roof at the same level.
Get some aluminum roll flashing the width that you need to reach the roof, plus about 6" (comes in varying widths). You also will need some 1" hardened cement nails and probably five gallons of black plastic roofing cement (and paint stir sticks to apply it with).
Bend a 1/2" lip on the top of the flashing to dry fit into the kerfs on the sides and a piece to fit over them across the roof side to wrap around over the side pieces.
Depending upon the pitch of your roof, you may need to layer upper side pieces over bottom side pieces, overlapped a few inches. Fit the back flashing to slide up under the shingle row above it.
After you get the side flashing pieces and the one for across the back cut and dry-fitted, move them out of the way, and spread a base of black plastic roofing cement on the bricks under them and around the base of the chimney about 6" out on the roof.
Build it up behind the the chimney so that it cannot puddle.
Wear old clothes, throw-away rubber gloves, etc. to apply the black plastic roofing cement. It is VERY sticky, and can even be applied (and will seal) in the rain.
Nail (into mortar only) the flashing in place over the cement, bottom and side pieces first, and then slide the back piece up under the shingle row above it, and wrap it around over the side pieces, with cement everywhere between bricks and flashing and the flashing over flashing.
Seal the edges with silicone caulk.
That should seal it.
Good Luck!
Mike
#3
03-20-03, 05:42 AM
Thanks Mike. I should be able to follow through on your suggestions.
Could you also lead me to info regarding crickets, i.e. how to make 1, what materials are used, etc. I've tried searching on line & I probably need to hone my search skills as I haven't found much direct info on crickets!
Thanks again, - Dave
Could you also lead me to info regarding crickets, i.e. how to make 1, what materials are used, etc. I've tried searching on line & I probably need to hone my search skills as I haven't found much direct info on crickets!
Thanks again, - Dave
#4
03-20-03, 06:13 AM
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Join Date: Dec 1999
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Dave,
A cricket is basically built just like a dormer the width of the chimney, except that it is center-butted onto the back of the chimney to deflect water around it, instead of having a window in the end of it like a dormer.
It is built with 2X framing, sheathed with plywood, wrapped with roofing felt, step-flashed, and shingled right into the main roof, like a dormer.
You can counter-flash over the step flashing, especially on the chimney. The connection to the back of the chimney would be cut into the masonry the shape of the end of the cricket, tarred (black plastic roofing cement), step-flashed, counter flashed adn shingled.
If I lived in Tucson, I would want the cricket back-vented with an opening into the attic space for ventilation to prolong the life of the shingles, although that is not required for crickets that I know of (I'm not a pro contractor, however).
Good Luck!
Mike
A cricket is basically built just like a dormer the width of the chimney, except that it is center-butted onto the back of the chimney to deflect water around it, instead of having a window in the end of it like a dormer.
It is built with 2X framing, sheathed with plywood, wrapped with roofing felt, step-flashed, and shingled right into the main roof, like a dormer.
You can counter-flash over the step flashing, especially on the chimney. The connection to the back of the chimney would be cut into the masonry the shape of the end of the cricket, tarred (black plastic roofing cement), step-flashed, counter flashed adn shingled.
If I lived in Tucson, I would want the cricket back-vented with an opening into the attic space for ventilation to prolong the life of the shingles, although that is not required for crickets that I know of (I'm not a pro contractor, however).
Good Luck!
Mike
