DON'T let it snow!


  #1  
Old 01-09-04, 09:39 PM
AllCoffee38
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
DON'T let it snow!

My gutters keep getting ice dams, and now my attached garage roof is leaking like crazy. I've cleared the gutters, and everytime the snow melts, water comes running in. Is this a problem I can handle myself, hopefully inexpensively??!!
 
  #2  
Old 01-10-04, 07:34 AM
Hellrazor's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Eastern USA
Posts: 948
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
You can buy heat tape that goes into your spoutings and zigzags on the roof to help stip ice dams. The real fix is to properly insulate your attic space though. To much heat is escaping and making the snow melt above the eves while the air in the eves is staying cold and not melting. Proper insulation and ventilation is a must. If you insulate the attic, make sure you do not hinder the air flow.
 
  #3  
Old 01-10-04, 08:59 AM
AllCoffee38
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks, I'll try that. I'm interested in the insulation, and as a female homeowner, not quite sure what is best or easiest to do. The rooms above the garage are unfinished shop areas with storage right aboue the eaves. What's the best type of insulation to use? Thanks for the help!
 
  #4  
Old 01-10-04, 10:23 PM
awesomedell's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 2,351
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
First you need to find out what kind & how much insulation you have in the attic. Attics are generally blown-in, as it's easier to reach all the tight spots.

Here's a couple of sites you might want to take a look at.

http://doityourself.com/insulate/index.htm

http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/...on/ins_15.html

Adding insulation is definitely within the realm of most diyers. Good luck & let us know if you've still got ??'s
 
  #5  
Old 01-12-04, 10:13 AM
P
Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 105
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
If you're getting water only when the gutters are iced up, then it is also possible that the water is coming in through (or around) the fascia. However, if you have proper ventilation and insulation as H. and A. have suggested, then you will have minimal (if any) icing in the gutters. Fix the problem at the source by limiting the amount of heat loss, and the problem of icing up will go away.
 
  #6  
Old 01-13-04, 02:41 PM
Grumpy
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
I must ask. Is your garage heated? It is very seldom that garage roofs leak from ice damns because usually the inside and outside tempratures are the same.
 
  #7  
Old 02-05-04, 09:48 PM
AllCoffee38
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
NO, the garage is not heated. The shop above the garage isn't heated either, but is warmer. I"m about ready to blow the roof off as the shop and areas look insulated. We have the roll kind that is stapled up against the inside of the roof. Is there something else I should do? Blow in inuslation is unfortunately out of the budget for now.
I'm also concerned about my garage doors. Could these water leaks cause problems with them and what can I do to safeguard them?
Thanks tons, you guys are GREAT!
 
  #8  
Old 02-06-04, 03:13 PM
Grumpy
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
I wish I could help more. It sounds to me like you need a good ol Ice shield under your roof. How old is the roof? Do you have good ventilation in the roof/workshop?

You said the insulation is rolled up against the bottom of the roof? That's not good. It usually means zero ventilation.

Without knowing more I am speculating that you use this are as working/living space... Remove all the insulation from the underside of the roof and MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GOOD VENTILATION, both intake and exhaust. If you don't add this. Install rafter baffles in the rafter pockets to carry air from the bottom to the top. Re-install your old insulation, if it's in good shape, over the rafter baffles. Install drywall over the insulation fastened to the bottom of the rafters. This will probably help, not guaranteed, and you will now have a finished attic too!

If you don't use the attic as working/living space then tear off the insulation and make sure you have good ventilation, then just insulate the attic floor as best as possible. But no matter what your insulation as-is is blocking ventilation.



The other thing would be to take up the roof 3' at the gutters, valleys, where the roof meets a wall, or any any penetrations like chimneys and install an ice shield then install new shingles. This assumes the rest of your roof is in decent shape. It;s very hard to tie a new roof into a crumbling old roof.
 
  #9  
Old 02-07-04, 04:45 AM
J
Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Park City, UT
Posts: 275
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I agree with Hellrazor. I also have a two story, unheated garage. While it's ice dams are small, it still gets them on the North side. I would use heat tape, only plug it in when you see ice starting to form. When you shingles wear out and you have to re-roof, use Ice & Water Shield and remove the heat tapes.
Jim
 
  #10  
Old 02-07-04, 09:46 AM
AllCoffee38
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Talking

Ok,at the risk of sounding even more ignorant than I am, how do I know if I have ventilation? I use the above garage area as a craft room/shop so not important for it to be finished. It has a window, door to the house and pull up door to the garage as well as ceiling fan in the first room, and the second room has a door and 3 windows. The roof is about 6-7 years old, and was stripped down bare when I had it replaced, so no added layers of shingles.
Also, what are baffles? I am convinced I am going to solve this problem myself, so thanks for helping with my roofing 101 education-- obviously I needed it!!
 
  #11  
Old 02-07-04, 04:46 PM
J
Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Park City, UT
Posts: 275
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Baffles are usally made of foam sheets...curved. You get them the size of your rafter spacing and they deflect the batt insulation so that there is an air space between the roof deck and the insulation. Like Grumpy says, you must ventilate at the ridge and eave/soffet of each rafter space to get air flow. They are cheap, but you would have to remove all of the insulation before installing the baffles.
Jim
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: