Roofer by trade..Have a gutter question

I am a Roofer by trade . I finished a big job about 6 months ago. The Roof is a very big roof with a low pitch (about 5").

I just got a call back on this job from the guy I subbed the work from and he said my quarter inch overhang isn't cutting it. He insists I go around the whole house and remove the bottom three courses so as to drop them down to leave more of a over hang.

The problem he says is the rain is following the drip edge and running down the facia and leaving black lines. Mind you he has not installed gutters on the house yet!

My question is, wouldn't the proper way to solve this problem be to install the gutters with the back lip under the drip edge or run a piece of metal flashing under the drip into the gutter??

I've done allot of work for this guy and have never run into a problem with him until now so I would just like to get some other professional opinions

Thanks, Steve

 

Been there done that many time steve. Like how big and is the 5" for the whole roof I take it not 5"on 12" are is it?.
First all the metal drip edge I know of are we make it up in shop are 1" over hang so where is that on the home I like to add another 1" on the shingle to it for more over hang if i can.
Now you say drip edge there????? you said 1/4"???????
I dont know of any home are what ever. That we have put gutters on and start on the high end with the gutter under the drip edge all the way the it stayed under it to the other end so it had a fall. Yes the water will go down in back of the gutter sometimes If you dont put a strip of metal there for a flashing in to the gutter.

ED

 

Hi ED ...
By 5", I meant the roof is a 5 pitch.

As far as the gutters staying under the drip edge. It is a very long roof so your right, it would eventually make its way out from under the drip edge after pitching the gutter.

So your saying it wouldn't be impractical for me to suggest putting metal flashing under the drip edge and into the gutter??.

 

Go for it .Like I said I dont know of many homes that you can run a gutter with just a little fall and stay up under the metal drip edge. I had one home way back that was so far off and he had to have the down spout at that end. Dont know why. But we had to cut out about all of the back of the gutter to start on the high end so we where still on the fascia board when we got to the other end.

ED

 

drip edge is just a flashing that prevents water from getting behind the fascia. It does also allow some margin for letting water drip away from the edge. If the manufacturer dosen't specify a certain overhang then I would tell the builder to speed up the gutter install and use 6" gutters for the long length.

 

The roofers in TN don't use drip edge. They hang the shingles over the edge 2" and it looks like crap.......damage is done to the shingle every time a ladder is put up against the fascia.......

 

Thanks for the input dennisjonescon No driip with a 2" overhang? Wow that must look like hell after a few years when the shingles start curling over the edge!

 

Dont knock it guys years back all roofs shingles where done that way about a 2" overhang and no drip edge that was it. Thats why you had to use a nail shoot to get under the shingles and hang the gutters. Are make the gutters so they had a 6" roof lap and went on first then the shingles ,tile are slate.

ED

 

Haven't seen a roof done without a drip edge in 20 years.

1/4" is, imo, way to little overhang, what if gutters were not to be installed?

That being said, there is an additional drip edge made for gutters to solve this exact problem. You might suggest that this gutter drip edge be installed as a lower price, less time consuming option.

 

Hi Pendragon

I know it wouldn't of hurt to let the shingles over hang 1/2" or 3/4" . Yet I've never run in to a problem doing it this way before (been roofing for 13 years) Guess I'll start leeving a little more Overhang from now on.

That being said, What is this stuff your talking about? Could you provide a link?

Thanks

 

I've been laying shingles for nearly 30 years.....I set my starter course in a light bed of roof cement spread with a trowel along the entire edge of the roof and along the eave as well. No water has penetrated the roof area of any roof that I know of. We have replaced many roofs in Fla. that were our original and the only two reasons for replacement were wind damage and old age. Even with 30# underlayment, the sun will bake a roof in Fla. And no unsightly sag at the roof edge.

 

You can probably get away with a shorter overhang as the roof pitch increases..

No picture, but they have it at home depot in the gutter section. I saw it when I was buying stuff to install my gutters. I don't remember who made the gutters, otherwise I might could post up a link.


It's my understanding that the roof cement on the edges is now code required in some areas (mine being one of them), at least according to what was in the paper after the hurricane.

 

I'll have a look next time I'm at the depot then..

Thanks