I hate when people do this!

Looked at a cheapie fixer upper today, needs a bit more than cosmetics but nothing outlandish, EXCEPT. They enslosed the front porch to add a couple of bedrooms and at that point the pitch of 6 changes to about 3. There's a bit of water damage, sheetrock, insulation, and fascia, but the structural and roof deck all look pretty good. It also looks like they had ZERO OVERHANG on the starter course.

What I was thinking of was stripping the roof to the decking, just to make sure all is OK, the using roll roofing to a couple of feet up the 6 pitch. Then just re-do the good pitch with matching 3 tabs. I figure I can get this place in the mid $20s, so I'm not going to re-frame to put a true pitch on the whole thing.

Does this sound too dodgy? In addition to the roof this pig needs about 8 new sheets of T-111, a fair amount of 1"X4" and 1"X6", then the normal fix, paint, clean etc inside.

Let me know your opinions guys.

Thanks
slumlordfrank

 

Do I understand correctly that you'll be reframing that whole side at some point in future?
If so, the 90lb. could work...but things to be aware of: 90lb. rolled roofing is not very durable, comes with no material warranty, needs to be installed over 30lb. felt, needs to be installed on nice day. It's easy to create buckles and stretch it wrong one way or the other when laying it.The seams are also more prone to opening up then other forms of "flat roofing materials". And, I know in my area, most municipal authorities now require a double layer of it when used over enclosed living areas {check out installation "pattern" for the double layer}.
I stopped using 90lb. except for use as valley liners and other "special" uses which will be totally covered by shingles or "other" because of the lack of durability......
but it can certainly be used if longevity is not the primary concern.

 

One more thing...........I forgot, because you mentioned leaking at the eve....
You could obtain a wide edge flashing {like a 1 ft. wide or more}, install it first, then apply a liberal amount of CONTINOUS asphalt/plastic cement to the top of flashing, then roll out your first row/roll of 90lb. into the asphalt. Then set 90lb. edge into the asphalt by stepping on it. This works to seal that edge...on a NICE day, if 90lb. is thouroughly warmed up. There's even a little better, more thourough way to seal/configure edge...but if you're looking for a short-term deal, the above can work.

 

Thanks Dodge;

No I won't be reframing in the future, this is definitely a fix and flip, but I want to do it right. I didn't even think about the flashing idea, I had figured to use the drip edge that has the BIG LIP on it.

I'm not sure what this "city" requires as far as code, obviously not enforced putting 3 tap on something so low. The double layer of 90 lb does sound like a much better idea, couple with the flashing.

This at least gives me an idea on how much to alter my bid on this unit.

Thanks again

Frank

 

Yeah.....rereading your intitial post, it's clear you said you were NOT going to "reframe". Getting dyslexic in my old age.

One other thing you MIGHT consider is rubber. Rubber is inexpensive, is generally available in sheets up to 10-20 Ft wide by up to 100 ft. long. That means far fewer seams. It's the kind of thing that can be installed fairly easy by unskilled, but construction-proficient workers. But it does require a method of adhering {glue} or ballasting {rocks or gravel}. You would probably need to install a cheap fiberboard first over the existing deck. And there are various requirements specific to installing the rubber so you don't run into problems later. But the EPDM rubber is good in low-pitched/ponding situations. Info on installation is widely available from the manufacturers on internet as well as Roofing Materials Wholesalers. It's far more durable than 90lb. and can be installed without prior experience unlike the torch-on modifieds.
Just trying to make your life more difficult....;]

 

In reading your first post...are you saying that the pitch over the porch is a 3:12? and the house a 6:12? I am from wisconsin where we have to worry about Ice daming and a 3:12 pitch is still suitable enough for a 3 tab. Code here as well as most manufacturers warrenties will allow a composit shingle all the way down to a 2:12. Being your from texas (again not sure on codes and practices down there) i would assume you could approach this the way I would do it and have done it here in WI...I would put valley flashing in the horizontal valley wide enough to cover 3 corses of shingle on either side (3' valley flashing), and double insure that with ice and water shield. shingle up the porch as normal to a spot to 2 corses below the valley and put a layer of ice and water shield on the unexposed part of the last row of shingles. and felt the rest of the way up the 6:12and carry on shingling from there. I garuntee you that won't leak. and I never had a recall on my 12 years of roofing. Let me know what you think.