Double coverage roll roofing


  #1  
Old 04-14-05, 02:07 PM
slumlordfrank's Avatar
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Double coverage roll roofing

You guys have provided some good advice to me over the past couple of weeks regarding a fixer-upper I'm doing, To review, part of it has a 1 1/2" in 12" pitch and rather than re-framing the whole roof I'm going to do the double coverage roll roofing/selvage method.

I'm going to install it parallel to the RAKES, otherwise there would have been a fair amount of lapping because the roof is 34' wide. Anyway one of my guide books says to overlay the entire exposure on each course. The other one says to overlay about 6-10" on each course. Both say not to use excessive amount of cement. The full coverage sounds a bit much but I guess with no voids there wouldn't be much if any buckling.

Any ideas on the how much cement I'll need per (double covered) square? I guess I'll just by 5, 1 gallon cans and take back any unopened ones.

This is going to be my last question on this unit, (I hope) I've got about 1/3 of the old roofs strpped and replaced about 1/4 of the bad decking. Due to delays at the Title company I don't actually own it yet, but we're definitely closing tomorrow

Thanks in advance guys.

Frank
 
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Old 04-15-05, 05:09 AM
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I would strongly sugest you run that material horizontally ...PERPENDICULAR to the rake. You need to take advantage of what pitch/gravity you have to work with, especialy working with 90lb. Better the water runs OVER the seams than down along them which is more condusive to finding its way in or "working" the seams apart.

I think 1-5 gallon bucket of plastic cement would do it.
And if your weather is warm, you might try using an asphalt=based seam adhesive instead. It is harder to work with {in part because it's messier} but works a liile better long-term than plastic cement.
 
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Old 04-15-05, 12:08 PM
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I agree with Dodge...run it side to side not top to bottom.
34' wide huh....and the rolls of material are about 33 feet long.....bummer.
Be sure to stagger the joints at least 2' from one course to the next.

It would cost a little more for material, however 300% less labor to put down one of the new self adhering modified bitumen membranes...just a thought.

Good Luck!
 
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Old 04-15-05, 07:13 PM
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OK, thanks dodge and shinstr, doggone I thought I would get away with something on this unit working out to a "T".

Back to the original question though, apply cement across the entire selvage, not just to the 8" or so around the 3 side? Oh, and tar paper, yes or no?

Thanks guys.

Frank
 

Last edited by slumlordfrank; 04-15-05 at 08:10 PM.
 

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