Replacing Fascia

I had my roof replaced in 2000 by a well respected local roofer.
After stripping the old shingles they replaced any damaged wood
(sheathing and fascia) before installing heavy GAF architectural
shingles (fiberglass base).

I was getting ready to repaint recently (June 2005) and found some
problems with the cedar fascia and drip strip. The fascia is 1 x 6 rough
cedar and there is a 1 x 2 rough cedar drip strip on top of that at the
roof line. At the time the new shingles were installed an aluminum
drip strip was put down and covers about half the face of the
cedar drip strip.

The problem is I have found a few places where the cedar drip strip
appears dry rotted (soft) as well as a couple of soft places in the
fascia.

Regardless of the replacement material, how to I remove and reinstall
these components without screwing up the aluminum drip strip
or the integrity of the shingles? (I can't just cover the problem up.)

Should I replace the damaged material with rough cedar or use a
different product? If so what product would be best for fascia
in west central Florida, and still retain some of the look of the cedar?
Since this is non structural should I look at composite wood? What
about cement products like Hardi-plank?

Thanks,
Jim

 

You should be able to remove the drip edge metal, by lifting the starter shingle and removing the nails. If you are a novice, buy a small "Cats Claw" or a mini flat bar, sometimes called a trim bar. They should come out very easy. I would go back with a HLD hardie 1 X 6, rustic. For the 1 X 2, you can rip down some hardie, or you could just install some treated. Just reinstall the drip edge, by holding up the starter shingle and nailing into the 1 X 2. If you find that it is just not working easily, let the starter shingle fall on top of the drip and put the nail through the starter shingle, into the drip, into the 1 X 2. When your done, place some roofing caulk over the nail and let the first course shingle set down and cover it. You shouldn't have any problems.

 

Thanks for the directions. I'll go out today and see
how lifting the starter strip will go. Since the shingles
are only 4 years old, and its warm (very warm in Florida),
I'm hoping that this should not be a problem. I'm a DIYer
but do already have a cats claw and flat bar.

Rather than just piece the fascia where there are problems
I guess I should replace all the fascia (over 20 years old).
This will be a big job as the house has about 300 linear feet
of eaves (full hip roof). Do you recommend trying to reuse
the aluminum drip or just getting new material?

I'll take a look at the Hardie site, as I think they also sell
a "starter" strip for lap siding. This may have dimensions
like the 1 x 2. If its not cost prohibitive, sure would save a
lot of mess (ripping Hardie products is not fun). My Mom just
had her house resided with Hardie plank and it looks great,
wont burn, wont rot. If you have experience with this product
do you think it is better to put it up with screws or nails?
Should it be painted before installation?

Thanks,
Jim

PS: Noon; I've been out lifiting shingles, carefully. I found that the aluminum drip edge appears to be nailed through the starter strip already. The nails may be far enough back to be in the sheathing (plywood), or might be into the 1 x 2. I can well imagine that 1 in 3 nails will tear through the starter shingle when I try to remove them. I see 2 problems in addition to this; 1) the architectural shingles are so heavy that they can't be lifted far enough to allow room for a hammer swing to drive a nail into the new drip edge, and 2) since the roof is a full hip, there is a ridge at each corner, covered with a cap made from the same shingles (not special cap shingles), which makes the corners nearly impossible to lift. Any ideas or should I just proceed and make the best of it?