Flat roof mineral cap


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Old 11-29-05, 10:58 AM
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Flat roof mineral cap

What a great place this is! I've spent hours just browsing thru the forums. As a 1st time "new" home owner, these forums will be invaluable.

I've just picked up a 6 year old, SW style, flat roof house (approx 2000 sq ft) in southern New Mexico. With the home inspector in tow, I was told that the house needs a mineral cap. From a visual/walk check, it appears that all other aspects of the roof are in good shape - just no mineral cap.

I know nothing about flat roofs so I have a few questions:

What kind of costs should I expect (ballpark per square) and what type of cap should I be thinking of? I don't want to chinch on the cost of a roof but I don't want to go too overboard either.

I've read about different types of skylite flashings. I have the straight down style, it seems, and have been told that the tapered type would be a better choice. Should any upgrades to these be done prior to the cap (I would think so) and would/could the roofer be the one to make them?

I would imagine that any bathroom ventilation (humidity) issues, such as a new install, would be better addressed prior to the work as well. Who would be contracted for that work or would that be in the scope of a roofing contractor?

Would any consideration to new penetrations, such as an additional skylite, be wise at this point? And, again, who would be the choice for that type of work?

I'm not in the house as of yet and still live out of state. Are there any tips to be had in regard to finding a reputable roofer from 800 miles away?

Is this type of work something that would be better to do in the warmer temps of the spring or addressed ASAP?

Sorry for the structure of the post and thanks in advance for any answers/advice!
 
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Old 11-29-05, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Cienega32
What a great place this is! I've spent hours just browsing thru the forums. As a 1st time "new" home owner, these forums will be invaluable.

......Congratulations!

I've just picked up a 6 year old, SW style, flat roof house (approx 2000 sq ft) in southern New Mexico. With the home inspector in tow, I was told that the house needs a mineral cap. From a visual/walk check, it appears that all other aspects of the roof are in good shape - just no mineral cap.

......He has no clue what he is talking about.."Minerals" are ceramic granules added to a variety of different types of roofing materials to add UV protection or meerly for asthetics.

I know nothing about flat roofs so I have a few questions:

.....Neither does he....

What kind of costs should I expect (ballpark per square) and what type of cap should I be thinking of? I don't want to chinch on the cost of a roof but I don't want to go too overboard either.

I've read about different types of skylite flashings. I have the straight down style, it seems, and have been told that the tapered type would be a better choice. Should any upgrades to these be done prior to the cap (I would think so) and would/could the roofer be the one to make them?

I would imagine that any bathroom ventilation (humidity) issues, such as a new install, would be better addressed prior to the work as well. Who would be contracted for that work or would that be in the scope of a roofing contractor?

Would any consideration to new penetrations, such as an additional skylite, be wise at this point? And, again, who would be the choice for that type of work?

I'm not in the house as of yet and still live out of state. Are there any tips to be had in regard to finding a reputable roofer from 800 miles away?

Is this type of work something that would be better to do in the warmer temps of the spring or addressed ASAP?

Sorry for the structure of the post and thanks in advance for any answers/advice!

..... All good questions
To pick a contractor call a local roofing supplier. Not HD or the like ...a commercial roofing materials supplier, in the area. Tell the person at the sales desk you are shopping for a contractor and ask "who he would say the 3 big boys are, in the residential market (that order a lot of low slope material) in his area"? Call them to set up proposals.

One of the most important issues with skylight flashing is height. 6" to 8" above the roof line. Angle is only an issue with asphalt products. They don't like the 90deg turn at the baseand tend to eventually split/crack. Asphalt products require a cant (45deg bevel) at the base to ease the transition.

Tell the contractors to include in their proposal the setting of new skylight curb(s), exhaust fans, whatever.
Better to let them do this during the roofing process. You can run anything you like to the underside of the deck, mark the area, and let them cut the hole and set the penetration.

Cost$$?..cant say ..too many variables

Temperature? ...As long as its at least 40 deg and rising...perfect.

Good Luck!
 
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Old 11-30-05, 06:28 PM
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Thanks for the congrats and your response.

That sounds like some good, logical advice on finding a good roofer. Never thought of that approach. Makes perfect sense.

As far as the mineral cap - I guess he was talking about a protective layer on top of the felts to preserve their longevity? His words, as presented in the inspection report:

"The roof should be evaluated by a licensed roofing contractor. At the time of inspection the roofing material consists of a two-ply roof. This means 36 inch wide roofing felts have been overlapped 18 inches. The roof felts have not been hot mopped with tar nor have the felts been protected from the sun with a reflective coating or a mineral cap sheet. This is atypical and the felts will degrade prematurely with continued exposure to the sun and elements. A licensed roofing contractor will be able to provide the most beneficial course of action to prolong the life of the existing roof."

His basic explanation to me was that what was needed was the final layer on the roof, in the form of hot mop or mineral cap.

At any rate - I've included links to two pics for further comment:

ONE and

TWO

Thanks again, for the great advice!
 
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Old 12-01-05, 07:52 AM
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Thanks for the pictures.
Yeah, not much left of those felts. Ok.. ill back off on the inspector a little.
What is that at the perimeters? looks like tapered insulation boards that were left exposed.

A "Modified Bitumen Cap Sheet" (with mineral surfacing) application would consist of cleaning-up and securing items, priming and mopping- SBS Modified (or torch- APP modified) a cap sheet.

Alternate...clean,prime, mop 3 plies and acrylic (white) surfacing

Perimeter terminations are going to be difficult with the adobe/stucco walls.
Dont let them skimp on the perimeter terminations
 
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Old 12-01-05, 01:33 PM
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The stuff at the perimeter comes from under those parafits(?). Looks like the stucco ends on top of it. A wrap over those little walls? It has a somewhat similar appearance/texture of three tab shingle material. (only thing I can loosely relate it to)

The inspection took place a day or two after three days of some pretty hard rains, which I thought to be good timing.

I do have one small area that puddles. I imagine that would be cured thru the roof work performed?

And by items to be cleaned-up & secured, you're referring to the penetrations?

Thanks for the detailed answer.

Now the question is - does it look like something that can/should wait until the weather starts warming up or is it an ASAP situation?

I'm hoping it's an ASAP as soon as the weather warms...
 
 

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