im a framer,not a roofer,need info asap....


  #1  
Old 12-21-05, 11:10 PM
ROCKETMAN431
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im a framer,not a roofer,need info asap....

undefinedundefined i am in need of some help.i am a framers aprentice,and i got a opertunity to make some extra cash/hours for christmas.i need a detailed diagram, plans to install cedar shakes.all the materials are already on site and i have all the equipment needed already .so what i need is plans or a link to where i can find these plans.dont worry i do know how to read a tape measurer and how to read diagrams.i just found this out around 6.pm(canada time)i got to do the job first thing in the morning,8.00 am.so please i need this asap.i also need this from someone who knows what they are talking about ,not ideas,the right way to do this so i dont botch it up.then i wont get paid ,and my wife wont be too happy either,or my son.
thanks for your time and
consideration,
happy holidays to you and all of
yours,rocketman431
 
  #2  
Old 12-22-05, 02:06 AM
rdn2113's Avatar
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Rocketman, try this site:

http://www.cedarbureau.org/installation/roof-manual.htm

Merry Christmas!

Rick
 
  #3  
Old 12-26-05, 05:49 PM
dougger
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Guessing you may have it done by now if you did it but must say being a roofing contractor wood shakes are some of the hardest and most time consuming shingles to install. Done about 5 over the past 10 years.

Material cost is almost quadruple that of a good 30 year laminate shingle and labor is over double that of 30 year laminate shingles.

The finished product looks and smells great but weather to a not so nice looking color after a couple years.

You have to use ice and water to code, then a 3ft tall layer of 30 pound felt than another layer of 30 pound half lap felt which each shake is tucked underneath. You have to start with machine cut shingles on the bottom and run your rakes up so you don't have two cracks on top of the each other. Valleys and hip ends are tricky and need to be cut very straight to look nice and keep out water. You can cut a pattern shingle and run them butt to the center of the valley. Make sure you run your felt straight because you run each row of the shingles off it except the first row which is run on top of the starter shingles and the second row is run off a chalk line. The ridge should be pre-made. If I remember right 10 or 11 inches is common exposer for shakes and you want no more than a half inch gap. For machine woods which are really time consuming you want a 5 or 6 inch exposer and you need to keep your gaps within a quarter inch.

Here is a link to a picture of wood shake job done this year,
http://community.webshots.com/myphot...umID=445059899
 
 

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